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Anonymous Posted on Feb 22, 2013

1994 Nissan Altima auto, starts up, drives, then stalls out within 5-10 minutes and wont restart for another 2 hours or so

1994 Nissan Altima Auto - Ive got a 6 month old distributor, and fuel filter. New spark plugs, MAF Sensor, Throttle position sensor and plenty of gas. Recently used Sea Foam with gastank to help a sputtering while accelerating issue.. This morning I started it like always went up the street, came back out, it cranks over but does not start. In about 30 minutes total, Went up got 3 gallons of gas, put it in, it started, went to leave the parking lot, stopped to pull out, went to go and stalled out. Pushed back to the parking spot. Left car for 5 hours, got in it, turned it over and it started first crank, rev'ed the RPMs up to keep high idle, pulled out and went about two miles, then while pulling through another parking lot to get home, it stalled out again. Like loss of fire or spark...maybe gas...but was acting totally like a normal running vehicle... Got it into another parking spot. Tried to restart it and it wouldnt. Just turning over with no start. A couple times it rumbled like it was trying but then just turning over. I left it and will go back and try again either later tonight or in the morning. Most likely it will start but then I am going to have to rush it home before it stalls out again...Thus, having the same issue. similar post:http://www.fixya.com/cars/t13835035-1994_nissan_altima_will_not_stay_running Same problem but different circumstances any ideas?

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  • Contributor 18 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2013
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Joined: Feb 22, 2013
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Either your igniter is dying or your fuel pump is dying

  • Anonymous Mar 05, 2013

    Checked fuel pump, got fairly full pressure...next step prob going to remove pump and look at the contents of the tank...Added a full bottle of ISO Heet so if water was present I will see cloudy gas, which will state to me to drain the tank...any other suggestions will help. Im a single Dad and unemployed at the moment, and paid 3x the book value for this car since I finanaced...$3800 + into this piece of junk...im at a loss for patience....Thanks Dompessagno!

  • Dan Jacobs
    Dan Jacobs Apr 03, 2014

    A split air intake hose can cause these problems also un metered air makes then run lean in cold weather they are hard to keep running.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 617 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 30, 2009

SOURCE: My 200 Tahoe stalled pulling into a parking spot

sounds like an Ignition control module,check for spark immediately after it dies.the spark should should be strong even up to a half of an inch gap

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Rob Sinbad

  • 709 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 25, 2009

SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or

your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.

Anonymous

  • 580 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2009

SOURCE: bmw 325i 2003 stall

Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle.
1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank
2 check fuel lines for debris
3 change fuel filters
4 have fuel tank flushed
here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.

roniecon

Ronny Bennett Sr.

  • 6988 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 11, 2010

SOURCE: 02 gmc sonoma 4.3 engine starts and runs great for

Smell of the oil,to see if the fuel injector(spider)is leaking into the crank case,if so,the intake will have to be removed to repair the problem,oh,and change the oil.

Azrael SRL

  • 11800 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 04, 2010

SOURCE: I have a 1992 Fleetwood

2 possible causes:
1. you have dirt in the tank that's clogging the sump when the fuel gets agitated - leaving the engine stopped allows the dirt to go back on the bottom, unclogging the sump of the pump. The tank will have to be taken off the car, emptied and washed thoroughly.
2 - the wires powering the fuel pump go loose when heated and cut off the power - this is easy to test : when this happens just unhook the fuel line from one of the injectors and put the contact(no engine starting), it the pump is still working the fuel should gush out. Clean the contact with wire wool and crimp them a little more.

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