Should the car start without alternator,waterpump and belts.

The serpentine belt has no bearing on the camshaft timing, so my guess is that you mistimed the camshaft timing for no reason.

The serpentine belt is external and is driven by the crankshaft and runs the alternator, the A/C, Steering Pump and water pump.

If your CAMSHAFT belt broke, the Ford Fiesta has an interference engine, so you have bent valves and damaged pistons.

Does A Ford Fiesta Have A Timing Belt Or Timing Chain?

https://www.autopadre.com > belt-or-chain > ford-fiesta

Ford Fiesta - Timing Belt Or Chain - All 2011 Ford Fiesta engines have a timing belt and are interference. Engine Type, Timing Belt Or Chain ..

Table of Contents Removal Installation Print Options Print Text Only Print Text and images Print Camshaft, Replace Removal 1. Bring lock carrier into service position as follows: a. Remove radiator grille. b. Remove upper bolts (2), Fig. 1. c. Remove quick release screw (6) from below, Fig. 1. d. Remove bolts (5 and 4) pointing upward in area of wheel housing liner, Fig. 1. e. With aid from an assistant, pull cover parallel out of guides. f. Disconnect harness connectors of installed electrical components and hoses. g. Remove noise insulation. h. Remove intake air duct between lock carrier (1) and air cleaner housing at lock carrier, Fig. 2. i. Remove bolt (5) on bumper carrier (4) and install guide rods tool No. 3411, or equivalent, (6) on righthand and lefthand longitudinal member, Fig. 2. j. Remove bolts (2 and 3), Fig. 2. k. Lock carrier (1) can be pulled approximately .39 inch toward front onto guide rods tool No. 3411, (2), Fig. 3. 2. Remove upper toothed belt guard. 3. Bring camshaft gear to marking for TDC cylinder 1 by turning crankshaft. Marking on camshaft gear must be flush with marking on cylinder head cover, Fig. 4. 4. Loosen tensioner and remove toothed belt from camshaft sprocket. 5. Turn crankshaft back slightly. 6. Remove camshaft sprocket. To loosen bolt, counter hold camshaft gear using tool No. 3036, or equivalent. 7. Remove hall sensor housing. 8. Remove washer and cover for hall sensor. 9. Clean drive chain and camshaft chain sprockets across from both arrows on bearing caps and mark installed position with a color marking. Do not mark chain using a center punch or similar means. Distance between both arrows or colored markings consists of 16 rollers of drive chain, Fig. 5. 10. Secure camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner using bracket for chain adjustment tool No. 3366, or equivalent. If chain tensioner retainer is fastened too tightly, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster can be damaged, Fig. 6. 11. First remove bearing caps 3 and 5 from intake and exhaust camshafts, Fig. 7. 12. Remove double bearing cap. 13. Remove both bearing caps from chain gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. 14. Remove securing bolts of camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner. 15. Alternating in diagonal sequence, loosen bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and remove. 16. Remove intake and exhaust camshaft, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster and chain tensioner retainer tool No. 3366, or equivalent. Installation When installing the camshafts, cam lobes for cylinder 1 must point upward. When installing bearing caps, verify marking on cap is readable from intake side of cylinder head. 1. When reusing old drive chain, mount drive chain according to color markings onto both camshafts. When using a new drive chain, distance between notches (A) and (B) must be 16 rollers on chain, Fig. 8. Illustration shows where first and sixteenth drive chain rollers must be installed on chain gears. 2. Notch (A) is slightly offset inward toward chain roller (1), Fig. 8. 3. Replace rubber/metal seal for camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner and coat hatched surface with thin coat of sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, Fig. 9. 4. Insert camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner between drive chain. 5. Oil running surfaces of both camshafts. 6. Insert camshafts with drive chain and camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner into cylinder head. 7. Tighten camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner to specification, pay attention to bushing. 8. Alternating in diagonal sequence, tighten bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 7. 9. Install both bearing caps on gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. Inspect camshaft for proper adjustment (arrows) and tighten bearing cap to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing, Fig. 10. 10. Remove chain tensioner/camshaft adjuster tool No. 3366, or equivalent. 11. Coat hatched surfaces of double bearing cap lightly using sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, install and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 11. 12. Install remaining bearing caps and tighten to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing. 13. Install camshaft gear, thin rib toward outside (arrows) and TDC marking visible and tighten screw to specification, use retainer tool No. 3036, or equivalent, Fig. 12. 14. Inspect setting of camshafts to each other. 15. After installing camshafts, engine may not be started for approximately 30 minutes. Hydraulic adjusting elements must seat themselves, otherwise valves will seat themselves on pistons. 16. Pistons must not be positioned at TDC. Ensure that crankshaft is still positioned before cylinder 1 TDC. 17. Align marking on camshaft sprocket with marking on cylinder head cover. 18. Place toothed belt onto crankshaft sprocket, observe direction of rotation. 19. Install lower toothed belt guard. 20. Install vibration damper/belt pulley with new bolts. Tighten to specification. 21. Turn crankshaft to set cylinder 1 at TDC. 22. Place toothed belt on in this order coolant pump, tensioning roller and camshaft gear. 23. Tension toothed belt as follows: a. If toothed belt tensioner is completely driven out, it must be pressed back by tensioner roller when installed. This procedure can last approximately five minutes. Pressing together with too much force can damage tensioner roller. b. Turn eccentric pulley counterclockwise using tensioning device tool No. 3387, or equivalent, tab (A) of eccentric pulley must not be bent, until tensioning device locking tool No. T10008, or equivalent, can be pulled free of stress, Fig. 13. c. Rotate eccentric pulley clockwise direction of (arrow) until a drill bit (2) with dimension (a) .31 inch, can be pulled through between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device, Fig. 14. 24. Turn over crankshaft twice and inspect if markings on camshaft and crankshaft still align with their reference points. 25. Inspect dimension (a) .24-.39 inch between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device using a drill bit (2), Fig. 14. 26. If dimension (a) is not obtained, release tension of toothed belt and tension it again. 27. Install upper and center toothed belt guards. 28. Install tensioner for serpentine belt. Tighten to specification. 29. Install serpentine belt. When installing serpentine belt, ensure that belt is seated correctly in belt pulleys. 30. Place torque wrench tool No. V.A.G 1331, or equivalent, in seven o'clock position and tighten A/C compressor belt tensioner to specification. Hold torque wrench securely and tighten bolts (A) to specification, Fig. 15. 31. Install lock carrier. 32. Install front bumper. 33. Tighten fasteners to specification. 34. Fill cooling system with coolant.

• Fig. 1 Front bumper removal
• Fig. 2 Lock carrier disconnection
• Fig. 3 Lock carrier service position
• Fig. 4 Camshaft sprocket alignment
• Fig. 5 Camshaft drive chain marking location
• Fig. 6 Camshaft drive chain tensioner securing location
• Fig. 7 Camshaft bearing cap removal
• Fig. 8 Camshaft installation
• Fig. 9 Camshaft chain tensioner seal installation
• Fig. 10 Camshaft installation mark alignment
• Fig. 11 Double bearing cap installation
• Fig. 12 Camshaft gear installation
• Fig. 13 Toothed belt tensioning device release
• Fig. 14 Toothed belt tensioning device
• Fig. 15 Air conditioning compressor belt installation

If you want a picture of one of the fig, let me know which one, there are several pictures. All I'm doing is copying out of my database.

This ai a pretty complex repair, the a/c compressor needs to be removed, the alternator, power steering pump. Everything that is in the front of the engine that is driven by the belt. Waterpump romoval, and finally the timing cover. A good repair manual will be good idea. Check that out about 25 bucks or so at local Autozone. The timing chain has to time the cranlshaft and camshaft' To #1 top dead center, on the compression stroke.

for gti engine , you will need a timing tool
this one has both timing belt and chain, first you need to line up the chain and it will require the timing tool .
for the belt there should be two marks one on the cam sproket and one on the crank sproket. you will have to line up the marks with ( OT).

very old post.
that code is in the FSM buy an FSM
or log in to alldata.com and see true meaning,

i believe this is unique to suzuki and only your car./engine and body.
3.6L v6 , the pregnant version of my 2.5L
change the water pump on this engine sux.. big time.


Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor "B"
Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
Trouble Code Conditions:
Difference between camshaft (bank 1 / exhaust side) position and crankshaft position is out of specified range.
Possible Causes:

• CMP sensor
• CKP sensor
• Signal rotor
• Timing chain
• Timing chain tensioner
• CMP actuator
• ECM

loose chain? or the can be a dead (jammed) tensioner.
if crazy loose it can skip a sproket tooth, do you ignore chain noise?

Water pump bearing faulty is first thought. How about faulty alternator/battery? you didn't mention any check engine lights that were on. Alternator bearings can fail, creating a no-charge situation that will run your battery dead, creating a "no power to injectors and no start situation"... if your waterpump is locked up, it can keep your belt from operating other accessories. Waterpump first choice.

Causes that bring up code P0016 may include:

• Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
• Misalignment of timing belt/chain
• Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
• Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
• Bad crank sensor
• Bad cam sensor
• Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
• Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged

1. First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck.
2. If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor.
3. If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck.

Hope this helps

1. Depressurize and drain the cooling system. 2. Loosen the alterantor adjustment and remove the belt.
3. Remove the water pump pulley.
4. Remove all the timing belt covers.
5. Loosen the timing (camshaft) belt tensioner and slip the timing belt off the camshaft toothed pulley (ensure you do not move the positon of the camshaft)
6. Unbolt the lower radiator hose fitting and heater retrun pipe.
7. Unbolt the waterpump from the block (5 bolts).
8. Remove all traces of the old gasket before mounting the new pump (Permatex spray on gasket remover works well).
9. Install the new pump and reassemble in reverse order to above.

This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

Here is procedure for 1996:

Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
   

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
   

1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
   

1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
   

1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
   

1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
   

1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
   

1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
   

1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
   

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
   
2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
   

18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
   

Installation
NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

1. While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
   

1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
   

1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
   
2. 
   
   1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
      
1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
   
2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
   
   While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
   
1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
   

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt

1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.

1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
   

1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
   
1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
   
1. Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
   
1. Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
   
1. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
   
1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
   
1. Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
   
1. Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
   

This is a serious repair job (I've done it several times) and a real beast for the typical driveway mechanic. It's nothing like the simplicity of a fan or alternator belt. It's inside the engine!
A $50 part and 10 hrs of labor. A sure way to kill a weekend (if everything goes well)
The front engine cover, housing the waterpump, etc must come off (usually the radiator, etc is in the way)

The relationship between the position of the crankshaft and camshaft is critical (these 2 major rotating parts are connected by the toothed timing belt. One notch off during re-assembly and the car will never run right if it even starts.

Buy a good shop manual (factory is best but aftermarket is OK) and examine the steps before deciding to take on this tough job.