Intake trying to change the intake gasket on an 02 montana and it looks like i have to remove the front cover and all pullys to do so is this true?

why not just do it one at a time., why make it hard.?
the front cover off is big job.
my guess is you have oil leaks, that it?
the steps are in the FSM book,
you can read them at alldata.com or at the official suz page.
posted 100 times.

$4 to look.......
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/1191-2001-vitara-grand-vitara-service-manual.aspx


or see all parts here for free.
it should be obvious what needs doing, if you look at what is in the way.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/2.5L%202004%20Tracker/25L-2004-engine.pdf

non are easy on the v6
you can see the intake is in the way.
and lots more on front cover....
id do the VC first. see if the leaks stops.
or better.
why not use the UV dye, check and find true place of leak first.
then do all that labor to fix. it.

the front cover.
well you can see all thing must come off front of engine, to get
the cover clear of the crank shaft. its clear that !
and how to do that depends on what stops you doing that.
the RAD sure. id have it out already. (not A/C condensor)

posted many times before. but one more time...
in FSM book.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove throttle body and intake manifold.
3. Remove ignition coil covers.
4. Remove camshaft covers.
5. Clean sealing surfaces on cylinder heads and covers.
6. Remove oil, old sealant, and dust from sealing surfaces. After cleaning, apply sealant A to cylinder heads sealing surface area as shown in figure.

so you read the book and get to line 2 and see links to those pages.
and ask who do to that, (TB should be obvious)
and that page on intake states

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Strut tower bar
   • Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor connector
   • Surge tank cover
   • Air intake assembly
   • Accelerator cable
   • Transmission cable, if equipped
   • Throttle body coolant hoses
   • Fuel injector connectors
   • Throttle Position (TP) sensor connector
   • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor connector
   • Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector
   • Intake manifold ground cables
   • Brake booster vacuum hose
   • Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve connector and hoses
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve connector
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
   • Heater hoses
   • EGR pipe
   • Fuel lines
   • Throttle body and intake collector
   • Intake manifold
5. .... stop,....... im sure it's info overload time.. RTM?
   

im sure you dont like this answer , and will drive with leaks.
like me....

why not read the manual first then ask questions. not clear.
posted vast times... on suz v6

The easiest way I have found to do it is as follows, First remove the air intake tube along with the cover for the air filter, next i remove the coil pack, i know its a pain, but it will give you a lot of much needed room. You wouldn't actually have to totally remove it, sometimes I just take off the front 3 plug wires and wire connectors and lay it down on the exhaust manifold just watch out for the 02 sensor. Remove the clamps the best way you can, Don't even mess with trying to wiggle the hoses off, just cut them or you'll be there for hours. New hoses are inexpensive for them anyway. IF I still need more room I take the top engine mounts loose and rotate the engine to the front with a small tie strap, it will open up that area even more. And to change those, you need all the room you can get.

You may be one tooth off on the distributor. With the cap off and battery disconnected rotate the engine to the small timing mark in the crank pully. There should be a small line in the pully and a single finger or mark on the timing cover. Now look at the distributor. The rotor should be in line with the 6 molded into the plastic. Hope this helps!! I was one off after doing intake gaskets and this is what helped me.

Buy a gasket kit for the upper end. Remove the valve cover intake and exhaust manifolds. Remove the head bolts. Remove head and clean up block from old gasket material. Take the head to a machinist and make sure that it is not warped. If it is warped either replace the head with a new one or have it machined true. Install new gasket and get torque specs with new head bolts and follow torque sequence using the correct torque specs. Clean exhaust, intake and valve cover of old gaskets. install new gaskets and torque according to specifications.

You have a blown intake manifold gasket, a very common problem on these engines. Don't let anyone tell you it's the head gaskets. To do the intake, you have to remove the upper intake plenum, valve covers, coil bracket, and some brackets at the front of the engine. It is a big job but possible at home if you have a good tool set and some experience. Fel-pro sells a gasket set just for this job.

intake and exaust manifold are completely different issues...do you mean that you need to replace gasket for intake system,,,as this is very common on GM vehicles...if you dont know much about cars...you should leave it to someone who does,as it involves pulling the upper intake plentum,valve covers,sometimes push rods and then finally the intake....hope to have helped...LEE

serpentine belt, alternator, pump pully, tensioner pully, and may make it easier if you remove the coolant jug- make sure mating surfaces are clean- dont use anything too rough, the pump and front engine cover are both aluminum and gouge easily, best bet is a flimsy putty knife and an ordinary green scrubby (yes, the ones you use on your dishes) all ols gasket material must be removed or it will not seal. glue new gasket to water pump using contact adheisive. good luck!

v6 or 4 cylinder?

SECTION 303-01A: Engine - 2.0L 1999 Cougar Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Valve Cover Removal

1. Disconnect the oil feed sensor electrical connector.

1. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube.

1. Remove the appearance cover.
   1. Position the throttle cable out of the way, and the speed control cable (if equipped).
   1. Remove the eight bolts.
   1. Remove the appearance cover.

1. Remove the spark plug wires.

1. Detach the upper part of the engine front cover out of the way.
   1. Remove the four bolts.
   1. Position the front cover to one side.

1. Remove the valve cover.
   1. Position the throttle cable to one side, and the speed control cable (if equipped).
   1. Remove the nine bolts.
   1. Remove the valve cover

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Believe it or not all GM 300 series motors are very similar and they all give head or intake problems whether its in the grand am, grand prix or montana the 3.4 is just that a 3.4. GMs not going to make a different 3.4 for each car they're all the same, it will fit. Do yourself a favor and make sure its not the intake gasket thats the actual culprit.

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it