2007 Hyundai Accent GS Hatchback Logo
Anonymous Posted on Feb 16, 2013

Possible fuel pump or fuel delivery issues

Car starts and drives ok (not great) when cold. Once the motor heats up the car begins to have problems idling and accelerating. It stalls without any warning and will not go over 4000 rpms at all and it is very sluggish at low end. There is no check engine light so I have no idea whats going on. I tried a fuel system cleanout. Fresh air filter. Also checked all fluid levels and exhaust seems fine. Nothing helps.

1 Answer

Anonymous

Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Corporal:

An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

Problem Solver:

An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor 10 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 19, 2013
Anonymous
Contributor
Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

New Friend:

An expert that has 1 follower.

Corporal:

An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

Problem Solver:

An expert who has answered 5 questions.

Joined: Feb 18, 2013
Answers
10
Questions
3
Helped
1591
Points
10

There might be a problem with the mass airflow sensor because my 2000 hyundai sonata used to do the same thing try cleaning the sensor. if that doesnt work then try some stop slip for the transmission

2 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Elantra stall, loss of power. Driving at

I am having the exact same problem with my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. I was told that the engine code that comes up when the sensor is on is called "Absolute Pressure In The Manifold". I was told by a "Hyundai Specialist" that when that code comes up it usually means that the seal on the manifold is Fuct. When my mechanic checked that out for me he had noticed that my manifold had 4 cracks in it(can varify cause he showed me). He replaced the manifold and gasket. The car ran fine for about 2-3 days and since then the problem has since come back and my check engine light will no longer go on/off it only stays on. Because of the check engine light always staying on I have noticed that on many occasions my car will hiccup many times in a row. The only way to stop the hiccup I have noticed is to take my foot right of the gas for approx. 2-3 sec then car will continue without hiccup(till it happends all over again). All in all I have been having this problem now for approx. 1 year and if there is somehow someway it could be repaired I would appretiate it.

Ad
alicantecoli

Colin Stickland

  • 22516 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 14, 2009

SOURCE: 2004 Hyundai Terracan, 2.5 turbo diesel, manual.

right renew the glow plug timer/relay if you put a meter on the glow plugs when cold and turn ign on (with help) it should supply power for a about 20 secs ,time depends on outside air temperature ,if all else fails then do a colin --- use a push button switch,wired to a relay so glow plugs can be operated by pushing the switch which you will mount on the dash ,cant beat a manual overide system

Testimonial: "alicantecoli provided accurate and correct advice for the diesel cold engine start problem I had."

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

1998 f150 new battery,new alternator, new solinoid,,starts when electrical system cold will not start after driving have to wait 45 min and it will start

Hi. If your 1998 Ford F-150 starts when the electrical system is cold but fails to start after driving, and you have already replaced the battery, alternator, and solenoid, there are a few additional potential causes to consider: 1. Ignition Switch: The ignition switch may be failing or experiencing heat-related issues. Over time, the switch can develop internal faults that prevent the vehicle from starting when it's hot. Consider having the ignition switch inspected and potentially replaced if necessary. 2. Starter Motor: A faulty starter motor can exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. When the starter motor gets hot, it may fail to engage and crank the engine. Consider having the starter motor tested to determine if it's functioning correctly. 3. Heat Soak: Heat soak occurs when the heat generated during engine operation affects the electrical components, particularly the starter motor. This can cause the starter motor to become temporarily inoperative until it cools down. Insulating the starter motor or installing a heat shield may help alleviate this issue.

4. Wiring and Connections: Inspect the wiring and connections associated with the starting system. Look for loose, damaged, or corroded wires, connectors, and terminals. Heat can exacerbate electrical issues, so pay particular attention to any wiring or connections that may be affected by engine heat. Repair or replace any damaged wiring or connectors as necessary. 5. Fuel Delivery Issues: While this may not directly relate to the electrical system, fuel delivery problems can cause starting issues after the engine is hot. Check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors for any signs of malfunction. Insufficient fuel pressure or clogged components can hinder the engine's ability to start when hot. It is advisable to have a qualified mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic check to identify the exact cause of the starting issue. They can use specialized tools and equipment to pinpoint the problem and provide appropriate repairs or replacements.
0helpful
1answer

My car 's engine is searching an it strugle's to rev up or while I drive when I apply accelerator the car loses its power

This can be related to a couple of issues, the most common of which are:
1. Fuel delivery problem (e.g. the fuel pump produces too low fuel pressure or the fuel pressure regulator can be shot or the injector(s) may be clogged). When you step on it, it leans out and has no power.
2. Air delivery problem or air metering problem:
- a clog in the air intake (I've once had a mechanic leave a rag in the air filter box and the car wouldn't want to accelerate)
- airflow sensor
- map sensor
- throttle position sensor
3. plus, the searching can be a symptom of a shot idle air control motor (stepper motor), but this won't fix the loss of power so I'd suggest leaving it for later, after the loss of power problem's fixed.
1helpful
1answer

Car runs perfect then starts missing real bad then stalls

Not unusual for fuel pumps to begin to fail once they are heated up from running. First thing in the morning pump is cool, then as you drive, it heats up and begins to lose pressure. After sitting a 1/2hr-1hr, it may start again and run fine for a short time and start to act up again. Had similar problem and found good fuel pressure when tank and pump cool, but lost pressure once vehicle driven a distance and pump heated up. The hotter the weather, the shorter the distance I could drive. If you can somehow set it up to have fuel pressure checked when it starts to act up, that would certainly help confirm if fuel pressure is the culprit.
0helpful
1answer

I just changed the two belts that run my engine and the water pump and the idler pulley. I have a 2003 bmw 325i. It was running great since we did the repairs for about 1 month now! Now all of a sudden my...

When you say that it tries to start but does not turn over - I interpret that to mean that the starter is cranking the engine, but the engine fails to start. Is that correct?
The ignition on these cars occasionally looses a single coil, but is not prone to loosing all ignition on all cylinders at once, so probability indicates that the problem is lack of fuel delivery.
This car is prone to two fuel delivery problems: 1) Failure of the fuel transfer pump that moves fuel from the driver side tank to the passenger side tank where the fuel delivery pump is located. If the car runs out of fuel when the gas gauge registers 1/4 full, and runs again if you add more fuel, this is the problem. 2) Failure of the fuel delivery pump. This is less common, but my wife's '04 330 lost a fuel pump at 80k miles, so it can happen.
0helpful
1answer

When the motor is cold and the outside temperature is below 70 the car will not stay running. Will die with in 30 seconds or so of starting, then you have to wait a minute or two befor the car will start...

Are there any service engine soon lights on associated with this problem?

Possible CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor) or another sensor giving faulty data for the cool air temperature.

Check spark and gas delivery when cool, below 70 deg. If the spark is not being delivered or the fuel injectors are not delivering fuel at this temperature, it will explain why it doesn't run right until it is warmed up.
1helpful
1answer

Car will not fire up..starter ok, battery ok. I have not driven it in 2 months

Try some staring fluid or a few tablespoons of fuel in the intake manifold at the throttle body.
If the car starts and runs for a few seconds, the fuel delivery has a problem ( like a fuel pump or clogged fuel injector).

If it doesn't start up immediately, then it's a possible spark delivery problem.

That should narrow things down a bit.
0helpful
1answer

Have 1995 olds cutlas with v6 3100 engine. engine runs great at idle and lots of power when cold. after driving for 150 miles car starts cutting out and loosing power under load. still idling great at that...

could be a fault with the fuel pump. it may be wearing out. check the fuel pressure at delivery. a blocked filter can also do this as its being surged for more fuel not the normal filter this one is on the pump it has larger holes and if you have sludge in the tank this can stop the fuel delivery. . for vacuum leaks spray some carb cleaner around the air lines any change in the engine usually indicates an air leak. also the fuel pressure valve these can all lower or stop fuel pressure.
1helpful
1answer

My car has difficulty starting after being turned off for a long time (12hours or so). You need to turn the key and crank it alot to get started (i usually crank for about 4 seconds stop then crank again...

I would go after the starter, if your starter is weak or ready to seize this will be the symptom, it could also be a fuel delivery issue, if the fuel pump is not working up to pace it wont send deliver fuel.

Good luck.
1helpful
1answer

My car runs fine when it is first started, but after a while it starts stalling and stopping when I am driving.. I changed the oil filter and the fuel filter, but it still does it.

it's possible that the fuel pump is failing and begins to have problems once it gets hot. i would have someone check fuel pressure once it is warmed up and having the stalling issue.
0helpful
1answer

1993 Chrevolet Lumina: Car starts fine from a cold start. Once I start to drive there's hestiation in the engine. The car doesn't stall, it just feels very rough; almost like something is clogged or...

First thing to do is chg. fuel filter, Now if that has been done and there is no improvement, than do a fuel pressure test, to chk. if fuel pump is putting out the right p.s.i. a few pounds under could indicate pump is getting weak or getting ready to go out, auto parts store can tell you the correct p.s.i. if all that chks. out ok, then you can elimanate it being fuel problem. And its cheep. It could be electrical but it sounds more like a fuel delivery problem to me.
Not finding what you are looking for?

191 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Hyundai Experts

ZJ Limited
ZJ Limited

Level 3 Expert

17989 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

15088 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

19187 Answers

Are you a Hyundai Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...