1999 f150/4.6/no spark at plugs

Very possible it's the crank sensor. You can put a test light on the ground side of the coil and crank it over.. if nothing happens while cranking, good possibility, but there are a lot of them! Could be a simple relay, dirty or loose connection!

Ignition or fuel problem probably . When you turn the key to start does the engine spin ? Crank no start or nothing happens NO CRANK - NO START ?
If the engine spins an does not start an run you need to test to see what's missing Spark or fuel . Pull a spark plug wire off a spark plug an stick a screw driver in the end an hold it near ground (metal) and have someone try to start the vehicle ! Is there spark ? Spray starting fluid into the engine , does it start then ?
Videos on youtube showing how to do these tests

You may have spark, but how strong is the spark? The spark should jump about an inch. Pull a plug wire, install a spark plug on the end of it and hold the plug about an inch away from a ground, (use insulated pliers to hole the wire during this operation) Spark should jump about an inch. if it doesn't, you may have a bad igniter unit inside the distributor.
The second item to check is the main relay located up under the dash on the driver side. it's very common in Honda's.

This engine uses a special flat cap and a standard rotor, right ? The spark comes into the cap and thru the rotor, then to the spark plugs.
Have you replaced the rotor ?
The spark can jump thru the rotor and ground thru the dist. shaft.
Depending on where you are testing for spark, the coil could also be weak and not pushing the spark to the plugs.

sounds like your ignition coil or control module are shot. Either can cause this problem.
If all plug wires are dead, no spark, and the module has power and ground suspect crank angle sensor. Of course sensor will break opon removal from engine block 4Cyl but in VA NAPA sells the sensor for $9.00. On the distribitorless system the crank sensor, module, and coils are all piggybacked in the same location, back of engine and is very difficult to service. When I was working as a auto tech we had allot of trouble with crank sensors and ign coils.
Before you jump to any conclusions. If your starter is cranking the engine at a normal speed(use your judgment), and you preformed all test for spark, such as pulling wire off spark plug and connecting positive end of volt meter into plug, and negative end to ground, you should see a definite deflection on an analog meter. All test and still no spark. DON'T forget to check your fuses and fuseable links in the starting and charging system. THIS must be done first. 50% chance, this is where your problem lies.

The two usual reasons a car won't start are either lack of fuel or lack of spark (ignition). Pull a spark plug (pull off the plug wire boot, then get a spark plug socket and a ratchet handle and unscrew the spark plug). Reconnect the plug wire to the spark plug and hold the metal base of the spark plug against the metal valve cover or the engine block (something grounded) while someone else cranks the engine over with the ignition switch for a few seconds. If you don't see a spark jump the gap in the plug, you have an ignition problem. If you do have a spark, it's probably either lack of fuel to the cylinders or a timing problem that is causing the problem.

Check for spark. Maybe a crankshaft position sensor is bad or a module.

Secondary Spark Test This spark tester looks just like a spark plug, attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark
This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems
Attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark
This spark tester is the easiest to use just place it on a plug wire and the spark voltage is detected and the bulb on the top will flash with each pulse
The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available. The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine. The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump to. The last two types of testers allows the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong).

1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine.
3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform diagnosis of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.

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Ignition Coil Testing

1. Remove suspect coil.
2. Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia switch electrical connector.
3. Reconnect the ignition coil electrical connector to the coil.
4. Install spark tester 303-D307 (D81P-6666-A) or the equivalent.
5. Crank engine while observing the tester.
6. If a blue-white spark is not observed replace coil.

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Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet pipe if interfering.
2. Disconnect the connector from the ignition coil.
   
   
3. Remove the bolt from the ignition coil.
   
   
4. Remove the ignition coil on plug.

To Install:

1. Install ignition coil on spark plug.
2. Install ignition coil bolt. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 in. lbs.).
   
   
3. Reconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
   
   
4. Install the air cleaner outlet pipe if removed earlier.

Secondary Spark Test This spark tester looks just like a spark plug. Attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark.

This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems.

Attach the clip to ground then crank the engine to check for spark.

This spark tester is the easiest to use. Just place it on a plug wire and the spark voltage is detected; the bulb on the top will flash with each pulse.

NOTE: The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available:

• The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse.
• The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine.
• The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump.

NOTE: The last two types of testers allow the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity of the spark. Orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong.

1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine or frame.
3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform a diagnostic test of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.

Removal & Installation 2.0L Engine Ignition system components (Code AEG)

Ignition system components (Codes AVH, AZG, BEV)

if it a standard check the cluch safety switch, i had a switch come apart on a f250 before and caused this

P0300, P0301, and P0302 are all misfire codes (cylinders #1 and #2, and a multiple/random misfire). The only time I've heard of this being related to a crank sensor is if the sensor were loose. Furthermore, a crank sensor issue should affect all cylinders equally. So I'd expect you'd have the P0300 only, or all the codes you have plus P0303 and P0304 (and P0305 and P0306 if a V6).

You should continue checking your secondary ignition system. Presuming the wires and plugs made no difference in the codes or condition, check the coil. You'll want to do your checking when the problem is occurring. Perhaps even mist the wires and coil with water to see if you can see a spark jumping. If you do indeed see a spark jumping, that is the location of your problem.

Another strategy you can use is to take the #1 and #2 plug wires (if accessible) off the plugs and just set them back in place without clipping back onto the plugs. Then, start the car, and gradually pull the wire(s) off the plug(s). The spark should come out of the end of the wire onto the plug. If it comes out of the coil or the side of the wire, then the problem is in the location of the spark.

If you're unable to find a secondary ignition problem, then you should begin investigating whether you have a fuel delivery or internal engine problem causing the misfire. Most engine issues will show up with a compression test. If you indeed are only misfiring on cylinders 1 and 2, you can swap those injectors with the others to see if the misfire follows the injectors.