The front brakes pulsate when I apply the brake at speeds over 10 MPH even if I apply lightly. New rotors new calipers new pads have rear ABS system no fault codes new master cylinder new sensor new hydro booster
Just because the rotors are new dosen't mean they come out of the box 100%,you might have one that is running out,causing the pulse,most pften it is recommended to have them turned on a brake lathe prior installation (saves you the trouble of doing the job twice)
SOURCE: brakes
Flexible brake lines are probably balooning out causing pressure not to build up, replace flexible to the calipers.
SOURCE: Brakes pulsate real hard
That is just the ABS system at work. It is supposed to prevent your wheels from locking which often makes the brake pulsate, especially in wet weather or or snow or ice. The only way to really stop this is to disable to ABS by unplugging it and removing the fuse. This will make the ABS light appear in your dash, but your brakes will stop pulsating.
SOURCE: 96 suburban steering wheel pulls to left when breakes are applied
Sounds ridiculous maybe, but have you by any chance tried braking hard, at lower speed on a gravel road, just to see if you can pick up on which wheel is grabbing first. I recall a rear wheel cylinder partially seized with slight leak on rear of one of my vehicles, causing front end to whip over on braking. Only after hitting them hard at slower speed on gravel road, was I able to pick up on it.
SOURCE: pulsation in brake pedal and rear end hops during braking
What happens is if you have a bad front wheel bearing when you brake that wheel will turn in or out,when this happens it throws the four wheel alignment out and since this is a solid rear axle,it's forcing it to flex on the suspension,wich could cause the rear tires to bite on the outside edge of one tire and the inside edge of the other,thats one possible the other would be that the rear brakes are are not slowing the wheels evenly causing the same issue.I saw this problem with a bad front wheel bearing on a Nissan Pathfinder but not as pronouced due to the independent rear suspension. Check the front wheel bearings,which of course will mean getting the calipers off the rotors,and then check for any movement in the rotor,if there is check the hub nut,if it's loose tighten it and check for play in the rotor if there is still play that's going to be caused by a bad bearing.You can check the braking in the rear with a simple spring scale(like the ones used for fishing),with the wheels removed have someone apply enough pedal pressure to just engage the brakes but still allow movement attach the scale hook to a wheel stud and pull until it starts to move and note how many pounds of pressure it takes to move the hub.If it's uneven chech your adjusters and even them if needed and then retest,if still uneven you'll need to bleed them again.As far as the dark black substance in the fluid I would say you may gotten a contaminent in the fluid.Brake fluid gets kind of a rusty reddish residue when it breaks down.If I missed anything or you need clarification don't hesitate to ask I'm home all day.Hope this helps solve your problem.
SOURCE: Spongy brakes
So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.
Did you BLEED the brakes??????
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