Very easy on this car. You don't even need to put the car up if you're not a big person. Remove the oil fill cap on the valve cover the warm and off engine. Unbolt the oil pan drain bolt at the bottom (don't lose the gasket) and let the oil drain out. Clean off bolt hole face and put the gasket and bolt back on. Bolt does not need much torque. Unscrew the oil filter on the front of the engine (might need filter wrench). Clean off filter face and make sure old gasket is removed (usually comes off with the filter). Put on new filter. Do not overtighten
While underneath, look around for leaks, damage to CV joint boots, cracks in hoses, etc.
Fill with about 3.5 qt 10-30W oil. Put oil fill cap back on. Run engine for about 30 sec. Shut off and check for leaks. Check oil level on dipstick after a couple minutes of engine running and add oil if needed.
Mark date and odometer in your log book. Recycle used oil.
SOURCE: my 1986 chevy nova has an ideling problem wats the
those cars have an idle solenoid on rear of carb insure there is 12 v there if so replace solenoid
SOURCE: 1986 chevy nova color codes
Try Autozone's website, you'll have to create a free user account, but they have wiring diagrams. The colours are indicated by letters on the schematics.
SOURCE: 1986 chevy nova
The Haynes manual is detailed enough to get you through the job, or you can create a free account at Autozone and they have an online manual which also covers this task. I can go through it step by step if you want, but essentially I'd just be regurgitating the information available from these 2 sources.
It's not a particularly difficult job, just a bit cramped, and make sure you have all of the necessary tools to hand so that you don't have to keep climbing out from under the vehicle, that tends to get old really quickly...
SOURCE: 1986 nova all at once it started missing no oil in coolant
I'd personally start by checking the basic ignition components; spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. If any of these items are damaged, worn or just no longer up to specification then they're likely to be the culprit. Mine just went through a spate of stalling and wouldn't restart because the wires were no longer insulating properly...weak spark, wouldn't ignite the fuel.
Let us know if this helps, and if not try to provide some more detail regarding the conditions when this is occuring.
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