Brake shoes from old rear axle not fitting on to the new rear axle 2002 durango

I read some comments about the rear brakes. Some of the base models have drums on the rear and they have a tricky brake expander on the top. Also some drums come with bearings installed and some do not. Last, the shoes may have a thick and thin shoe on each axle side. This may be because the Emergency brake needs thicker shoes. Old time front shoes had a long and short shoe with I believe the long shoe rearward.

As some people had trouble obtaining the correct set of shoes, finding the adjusters and returning them to zero; it is possible that the Emergency brake reel needs to be released to let the E brake cable to return to its fullest length. This would let the rear shoes have the most room for adjustment and retract them.

Many speak of 2 hours minimum for this project. With bearings needing to be installed in cheaper drums and more than 1 brake shoe called for, this may be a fitting project for a Professional.

I had a similiar problem with mine the hand brake was stuck on and wouldn't let the new drums go back on.

Take it to Auto Zone or other parts store and have them run a free diagnostics scan. Then reply with the code. If no codes are present, you can start checking the front abs sensors. I dont believe there are rear sensors on these models.

NOT THIS IS FOR 4WD 5.7L
Brake Relining

• Brake linings that are worn to within 1/32 inch (0.79 mm) of a rivet head or that have been contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or oil must be replaced.

Potential brake shoe problems. Courtesy of Wagner Brake Products.

• Failure to replace worn linings results in a scored drum. When it is necessary to replace brake shoes, they must also be replaced on the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. Inspect brake shoes for distortion, cracks, or looseness. If these conditions exist, the shoe must be discarded.
• Do not let brake fluid, oil, or grease touch the brake lining.
• If a brake lining kit is used to replace the linings, follow the instructions in the kit and install all the parts provided.
• The two general methods of attaching the linings to the brake shoes are bonding and riveting.
• The bonded linings are fastened with a special adhesive to the shoe, clamped in place, then cured in an oven. Instead of using an adhesive, some linings are riveted to the shoe.
• Riveted linings allow for better heat transfer than bonded linings.

Drum Shoe and Brake Installation

• Before installing the shoes, be sure to sand or stone the inner edge of the shoe to dress down any slight lining or metal nicks and burrs that could interfere with the sliding upon the support pads.
• A support (backing) plate must be tight on its mount and not bent. Stone the shoe support pads brightly and dress down any burrs or grooves that could cause the shoes to bind or hang up.
• Using an approved lubricant, lightly coat the support pads and the threads of servo star wheel adjusters. On rear axle parking brakes, lubricate any point of potential binding in the linkage and the cable. Do not lubricate nonservo brake adjusters other than to free a frozen adjuster with penetrating oil.

The areas or pads where the brake show will rub or contact the backing plate.

• Reassemble the brakes in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure all parts are in their proper locations and that both brake shoes are properly positioned in either end of the adjuster.
• Also, both brake shoes should correctly engage the wheel cylinder pushrods and parking brake links.
• They should be centered on the backing plate. Parking brake links and levers should be in place on the rear brakes.
• With all of the parts in place, replace the brake drum.

Which year is your D,,,, 02 or 1999? In any case, both models have rear drum brakes. The 01 I had would be grabby on the rear shoes when it was damp or humid out for the first stop or two.

this is very hard if you do not know what you are doing. Ill try to step you through this

• pull wheels
• drain pun-kin case
• pull rear cover
• in between the spider and axle sets pull C ring with needle nose pliers
• pull hub and axle out CAREFULLY as there are roller bearings on the end of the axle housing
• pull seal out at the end of axle housing
• tap in new seal CAREFULLY and straight DO NOT BEND IT or it will be junk
• replace axle carefully as the roller bearings are still there
• replace C clip to original position
• replace axle diff cover and replace the gasket with a new one
• refill diff case
  
• install tire
• your good to go
  

It appears the rear axle shaft seal is leaking. You will need to pull the axle and replace the seal. Then check the rear end for adequate gear oil. The iron filings I am not to sure about. It sounds as if something came loose from the brakes or brake hardware and got chewed up in the drum. You will need to replace the brake shoes and maybe the brake hardware kit. Always change the shoes or pads on both sides when working on brakes, rear or front. If the inside of the drum is not perfectly smooth it will need to be turned or replaced. If this were brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder the master cylinder would be low on fluid and your brake pedal would go down much further than normal.

The adjuster is just like on a car with drum brakes. It can be adjusted with the wheels still on the truck, but if yours is out enough that it doesn't work, an inspection is warranted. Axle seal failure is common and will soak the shoes.

Jacked both rear wheels off ground, and while slowly spinning wheel, tighten the star-wheel adjuster until you just hear and feel brake drums rubbing, then loosened slightly.
There's a plastic dust cover about 1/4" X 1" that you remove, and use a drum brake adjuster tool.

The driverside access hole is below axle, easily accessable. To tighten driver side rear parking brake, turn star-wheel adjuster down.


The passengerside access hole is found above axle, and difficult to see. Removed pass side wheel and used an inspection mirror.
To tighten passenger side rear parking brake, turn star-wheel adjuster up.

Good luck and hope this helps. Oh and the other thing to is that if you do smell axle fluid around the wheels and see oil leaking from the drum area. Then you have a axle wheel seal and or bearing gone bad too.

Had the same problem and had to pull spring back, using two vise grips in order to do it. Then the brake cable will slip into place if you move the lever until the cable goes into the open part of the attachment on the bottom of the lever. Then turn or twist the brake shoe until the cable end fits properly.
Make sure to examine and think about which way to insert the cable end so that it is in properly to pull the lever.

probably not the lines are usually attached to the frame rail behind the tank.