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how cold is cold???? In Alaska or Key west? tell location and bingo, i know. but didnt all engines race cold for sure EPA regulated ones. and race faster the colder it is
what is RPM see dash, see dash rpm gauge called the tachometer, use that to answer or if no tacho there, ill never know here in the cloud.
no engines size stated
its 85f here. 2000 RPM is easy cold. here about 1500 cold (85f) but drops fast say 5min.
First i would check the crank sensor by looking for rpm's on the tachometer or scan tool if you see any rpm's then crank sensor is good.Then check for leaking injectors and if they are not leaking then you will need to check the ECM it may have failed.
Many possible causes....Too little info to make an intelligent suggestion. Try charging the problem vehicle's battery with jumper cables for 2 minutes with the supply vehicle running at fast idle (or about 1500-2000 RPM, if it is tachometer equipped) before you try to crank the problem vehicle on a cold morning. If it starts right up, you likely have a weak battery that needs replacing.
If you do not have a scanner try Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance autoparts. They will scan for free.
Check your water sensors for the Cold start routine. You should have 2 things there for the Temperature, 1 for the water gauge and the second works the Cold start. Now if the Cold start routine is not getting a reading of the engine warming up, it will not cancel and will stay at high idle.
You also may have a weak thermostat. You do not have to exceed the specs with too hot a thermostat, just one that is working. Sometimes a difference of 10 degrees is enough to keep the phases from clicking in when they are suppose to.
With over 200,000 miles you must have put in 1 or 2 parts by now. It should not take you too long to fix this. I hope my solution is helpful to you.
Could be the VANOS Seals. You can buy them for 60.00 and it takes about 5 hours to do (but will save you a lot of money). Follow the steps at this site and you're good to go: http://www.beisansystems.com/
Concerning the heater problem.Sounds like you have an air pocket in the system.To remove the air pocket take off the radiator cap in the morning when the car is cold,fill radiator to top.Start the car.Turn on heater to high.Allow car to run until it gets to operating temperature.Now you will see the fluid in the radiator start to go down.This means the thermostat is opening.As fluid goes down fill radiator to top (with 50/50 antifreeze/water mix).You may have to wait a moment for it to continue to move down.Once it stops and the radiator fluid isnt going down,slowly bring up the rpm's (by either turning the throttle with your hand or have someone put their foot on the gas) to about 2000rpms and hold the rpm's there steady.As you hold the fluid will go down a little more.As it does fill to the top again and quickly put the radiator cap back on while the rpm's are steady at 2000.After the cap is correctly on release throttle.This should remove the air posket.
etal for instance expands and contracts due to temperature differences,
granted the changes are very minimal but in a machine that has no room
for tolerances, these changes can be enormous. Oil is another one, your
engine is actually filled with oil on the inside and when that oil is
cold the viscosity of it changes dramatically, its like comparing tree
sap and maple syrup. And all of these little things play a crucial role
for your car.
You must let your car warm up properly before you use it. My
recommendation is that you leave it in park for about 5-10min in the
morning, just enough to get your transmission warmed up enough for it
to work properly, after that you want to make sure that as you're
driving for the first 10-15min you want to keep the RPM's as low as you
can. If your engine and transmission are not warmed up enough they will
not perform well at high RPM's and may even be damaged as a result of
being pushed too far if they are not warm enough.
i think its MAF problem or choke so what you think?
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