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Replaced stat new fliud still overheating and no heat, highway driving no overheating, slow down to a stop will overheat ,rev up motor a few times and temp went down to normal for a short time, did blue chemical test on radiator did not change color, you know theres something to be said about no trk payments, this must be the opposite off that any ideas please
It sounds like the temp sensor maybe bad. I actually just replaced one on a 2001 chevy doing the same thing. reading that it was running hot while stopped but fine while driving.
Fan clutch.....replaced twice on my 03 suburban with 320k. Love these motors, and the gas mileage this one gets, but dont trychooking a trailer to it, need a tranny the next week.
Take the thermostat out and put it in a small pot and heat it on the stove top watching to see if it open when it gets hot. If it hasn't opened all the way by the time it boils its bad
bleed the air from cooling system. and make sure its full of coolant. replace thermostat if need be. good-day ! if above fails replace coolant reservoir cap, it may not be releasing pressure as need be. and its over heating. just remove cap and start car to see if it over heats. if it still does, repair as above. and be sure the cooling fans are working. but an improper seal of the radiator cap or pressure malfunction of the
cap is an easy (and cheap) source to check first. If the pressure in the
radiator is not high enough, the fluid will boil at a lower point and
the resulting steam cannot flow through the cooling system.
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You have to bleed the air out of the system. There are 1 maybe 2 bleeders on the front of the engine on the cooling system bypass pipe one near the upper hose the the othe on the drivers side of the pipe. They are brass with a small bleeder valve in the middle. Get the car up to temperature and take your time to allow all the air out. Refill cooling system after it cools. Hope you didn't do any damage running it hot.
If it overheated i would replace the thermostant and gasket, also make sure its full of coolant, after replacing the thermostat you may have air in system so let it run until stat opens it may boil over a little until stat opens then it will **** coolant into block when that happens fill with coolant, you will need to let it idle for a while before new stat opens, hope this helps, good luck, i think the stat went bad the first time it overheated.
I ahd the same issue and just had to bleed the air out of the system. Use the bleeder valve on the top of the intake tube, you cant miss it. Stat your car and open that valvethe air/steam will start to come out. Keep that open until you get coolant flowing out of there and then close it. Took me about 5 min. and heat works fine. Please rate my answer to let me know if that was any help. Thanks
it may have a blown head gasket if it keep over heating or there could be just an air lock in the cooling water,, you will need to bleed the air out to stop the over heat as the water is not going around the engine its not opening the thermostat so it cant bleed its self take off a water pipe thats the higest pipe you can find it may have a bleed vent in a pipe were you can bleed it from ,,,top up the rad and header tank take off the bleed nippel when water with no air is coming out and the jobs a good un? run the motor for a time or go for a drive to check its not ever heating again and the heater should by now be blowing hot air,, top up the rad and header tank when its coold down
Flush rad & change coolant & thermostat. Check operation of rad fan, & make sure it is coming on when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Be sure to bleed air out good when refilling rad/cooling system. Start engine & turn heater on when refilling & let rad fan come on & off at least 2 or 3 times before putting cap back on rad, and refill rad as needed as you do this. then fill return bottle to proper level & see what happens.
The best way to flush it would be to take off the bottom radiator hose and pump water through the fill nozzle after all the coolent is out you can then hook the hose back up and replace it with new coolant.
Solve? Although I clicked the link to solve the problem, I have no answers but am tempted to go after honda.
Same problems still occuring on my 2003 honda civic (103,000)!
I have:
-Changed thermostat's twice (180 degree; Yes, it is correctly positoned with the jiggle tab to the top and the correct side facing the engine)
-Installed new water pump
-Checked coolant level
-Changed the timing belt
-Checked for head gasket symptoms (white exhaust, corrosion in cylinders/plugs, loss of fluid, checked cylinder compression (all check out)
-Had the entire system presure tested 3 times with no visible leaks
-Run the car for 45 minutes with no visible drips/leaks
-proped the front of the car up to get air out of the system
This weekend I had spare time on my hands so I replaced the thermostat (checked the other, which according to bioling water at 180 worked as designed) I flushed the entire system, took out the radiator and had it blown out, flushed the entire system, installed new upper and lower hoses, checked the fan switch, I will be replacing the coolant with new, installing a new radiator (since they cost only 100 online and I have the hole front end off anyway, I'll be reinstalling the fans and switches, and trying it out again.
I drive about 100-450 miles between overheating, but it is very sporadic.
Still have the same heater issues- cold air when stopped and not accelerating at times. I am tempted to check the heater core next- but there is no loss of fluid from that ethier?
When I get the system back together, I'll try running the car for a few weeks without the heat on to see if that corrects the problem.
All of the steps to repairing the cooling system seem easy and cost 1/10 of getting them checked at a shop if you have the time!
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