Truck idles rough battery light flickers then stalls I replaced the ignition control module the battery alternator voltage regulator and fusible link are all less then a year old truck runs fine for a few mins then starts sputtering then dies
The battery light may be flashing due to low RPMs from the engine running rough but the main problem sounds more fuel related
I would agree the warning light is coming on when RPM drops below 400. And yes it sounds like a carb problem.
Brought the truck to my girlfriends parents today her dad took a look at it funny thing cant believe i didn't notice it some screws on the carb were really loose and the whole thing was really wobbly we took it off tightened it up made some adjustments and its running smoother it's still stalling when I stop but Steve thinks I washed out the spark plugs it might clear up I also burnt out the starter I have a few spares so I have to fix that later
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SOURCE: 1982 ford f150 300 CID 2wd truck idles really
You'll need a lot more info to proceed.
Condition of the plugs and the rest of the ignition system ?
Vac leaks ?
Condition of the carb ?
Good compression on all 6 cylinders ?
SOURCE: 2002 Toyota Tundra Stalls
The throttle body needs cleaning. It has some carbon build up, and when the battery went dead the computer lost its learned values, one of which is base throttle position. Now its reset back to factory specs, not accounting for a dirty throttle body. Seen it a million times
SOURCE: 1977 Ford F250 400m electrical problems
It doesn't sound like a ground, but there does exist an engine to body ground strap the gets forgotten quite often. It is located at the rear of the engiine going from an intake manifold bolt tothe firewall. Check the charging voltage of the alternator at the battery posts. The charging rate should be between 13.6 to 14.2v. Remember this, The higher the voltage the lower the amps In turn the lower the voltage the higher the amps. If the alternator is charging at 14v, it should drop towards 13,even as low as 12v, depending on the battery and accessory loads.At 12v, the alt is pouring out some serious amps and running hard. This is not good for the alternator. That's the reason for 13.6 being nominal. If the alt puts out 15v, this is also harmful. Although you aren't getting the amps, the high voltage will burn up things designed to run on 12v, Like lights and radios, relays and such. I hope all this makes sense to you and is of help. Check the eng to firewall grd, Ck your charging voltage and give your battery ground a second once over at both of the cable ends, loosening the bolt on the engine end and making sure its clean. Checking the + connection wouldn't hurt. Good Luck, Ned. Let me know, k?
Testimonial: "Hey thank you for the help. It was the ground from the intake to firewall. Truck runs like a champ."
SOURCE: 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L engine. Truck stalls
Hi, I have the same problem, I'm sorry I can't help, but if you figure it out please let me know.
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