How do I bleed a clutch for a 1985 mazda rx-7

on the master cylinder unscrew it den let the break fluid leak out then u tighten then pump the clutch till it is hard then you unscrew it again the break fluid will run out again then tighten then you pump the clutch till it reaches where you want it

first gotta bleed the master..do this .. disconnect those lines going out and put the hoses for bleeding the master on..fill the chambers to almost full..push the pedal down and up s;lowly until no bubbles come up out of the hoses.dont push the pedal hard because the fluid will shoot everywhere.this takes a few minutes..and 2 people..get the willing partner to work the pedal.. its much easier that way. then work your way to the wheels doing the furthest one first.

If your clutch pedal doesn't quite have the pressure it used to, or your clutch fluid just looks old and dirty, it may be time to bleed and/or replace the clutch fluid.
Items needed:

8mm open or box end wrench
Clear tube (1/4" ID)
One bottle DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid (doesn't have to be full)
A friend to press the clutch pedal for you

Locate the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder.

Use your 8mm wrench to open the valve one full turn, don't remove it.

Stick your hose over the bleeder valve and have it drop off into a container.
Be sure to check the clutch fluid level before bleeding the system, you don't want to let it get below the MIN line.

Have your friend pump the clutch pedal to start removing the fluid. Don't be con if they tell you the pedal went down to floor and won't come back up on it's own, that's normal. They'll just have to wedge it back up with their foot.

NOTE: When bleeding the system, make sure the cap is ON or you will just be sucking in air

Refill the clutch fluid as necessary to keep it above the MIN line. Since the clutch fluid reservoir is very small you'll have to keep a close eye on it.
I just had some extra ATE brake fluid left over from my brake fluid change so I decided to just use it since it is a DOT3/DOT4 fluid. But high performance fluids are not necessary for the clutch fluid so you can just use regular cheap DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and it won't make a difference.

When you see the fluid in the hose change completely from the old color to the new color then you know the system has been flushed and is now full of new clutch fluid. Have your friend do one l press of the clutch pedal and tighten the bleeder valve once the pedal hits the floor. Since you can't use a torque wrench on the bleeder valve, it's important to note it does not need to be very tight so don't try overtightening it and just snug it up with your wrench.

Pump the clutch pedal again and the pressure should return. And that's all, you're finished.

this video tutorial can help you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-XhFxlkzFI&feature=player_detailpage

get a friend to help you. locate the little bleeder nut near where the line goes into the transmission. use correct wrench to loosen it make sure your clutch reservoir is full with dot3 brake fluid. after your friend pushed down on the clutch pedal open the little nut then close it. do this till not air bubbles come out and refill the reservoir

The clutch hydraulic system is very small. Check the resevoir is full. If empty fill. Try clutch. Still problem ? Bleed the clutch slave cylinder at the trans bleeder. You dont bleed this clutch like brakes pumping up several times. Have someone push clutch to the floor and hold it there, then you open and close bleeder while keeping pedal to the floor. Check the fluid level every time you open/close the bleeder as this system is so small and will empty quick.

you clutch needs bled better, i'm currently going through this now. If bleed your clutch hydrolics, and after a few days it starts sticking again, you will need a new clutch master cylinder and slaves cylinder. About $70 at autozone. Make sure when you bleed it you get NO AIR not even little bubbles coming out of the bleeder. Bleeding the cluch is much more difficult that bleeding the brakes.

check the clutch fluid, if empty fill and bleed clutch line, if its full check the clutch slave sylinder it might be seized, replace and repete steps

spring on the pedal could be bad or the slave cylinder in the trans. could be bad

crack the bleeder nipple on the slave cyl and get some one to slowly push the pedal see if any fluid shoots out if not you may have killed the new seal in the master cyl.
it sounds like you did every thing right its just that old cylinders get were in them and if you don't hone them out and put a new sleeve in them quite often you will rip the new seal apart on the first pump of the pedal.
any way check for presser and let me no

Sounds like your clutch master or slave has devloped a leak. I can't say specifically for the RX-7's but typically cars like that run a hydraulic clutch setup. A good place to start is checking the fluid level. Since the clutch may have worn the fluid level might be low anyways, but if it appears to be empty or at the very bottom I would be checking for leaks. Master cylinders in my experiences usually leak into the cab of the vehicle. You just need to look up under the dash to where the top of the clutch pedal attaches to the master, sometimes it might be hard to see, so just feel around, if you feel any moisture theres is a good chance thats it. The slave cylinder just jack the car up and have a look underneath, follow the clutch lines down until you see the slave, these will leak externally and be easy to see. Also if either of these parts have been changed recently it wouldn't hurt to bleed the system again. Also if the master has been changed or you are going to change its always a good practice to bench bleed it first. Here is a link on the process http://www.misterfixit.com/brakbld1.htm Its written to do a brake master but they are pretty much identical.
Hope this helps