Seizing brake calliper on Vw Corrado VR6 Storm 1995.

Because of the way callipers are designed 'rocking it' will have no effect. That was more of a method for rear Drum brakes which are designed differently to Disc brakes.
You will need to push the piston back in the calliper to release the brake. To do this you will need to SAFELY jack up and support the vehicle, remove the wheel and lever on the sliding part of the calliper to push the piston back.
If the calliper has seized it will seriously fight you all the way so it isn't really a job you can do at the side of the road.

Hi Danny jack up the car and use axel stands or blocks for safety remove wheels and open the calliper s. if the park brake cable is attached to the back of the calliper you will need a brake wind back tool. If not the pistons on the calliper should push back to make room for the new pads. Next remove the calliper brackets and then the rotors and reassemble in reverse order. Before you let the car back down pump the brake until its hard then turn the wheel by hand to see that it is free. After a road test jack it up again and make sure the wheels are still free. Have fun. Regards Jim...

We do not have the model in the US so have no idea as to fitment.

are you talking about both front brakes sticking.by lines i assume you mean the brake flex hoses.have you checked to make sure that the sliding surfaces are smooth and free of damaged surfaces and the brake pad clips are in the proper places.if so and all this is good that you have done then you could have a master cylinder that is not releasing pressure for the front brakes,or you could have a defective flex hose(if they are not twisted) that is blocking the fluid from releasing the calipers.

a steering wheel shake with the wheel fully turned usually indicates a seizing constant velocity joint (axle). it can also be accompanied by a clicking noise while turning at higher speed. this is easy to confirm. raise and support the front of the vehicle and put in neutral. turn the wheels by hand with steering wheel pointed straight ahead. there should be minimal resistance. then try rotating the wheels with the steering wheel turned all the way to one side then the other. if you feel any extra tightness or binding, you indeed have a seizing joint. if the axles look ok visibly, you will need to remove the axles to confirm which side is the problem. good luck!

It probably has the wrong mirror in it so it would be est to consult the dealer. Sorry.

Atention!!!
Don't disconnect any brake line from caliper!
Don't disconnect any ABS sensor!
For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Remove brake carrier from wheel bearing housing (two ribbed bolts). 125 Nm 7. Remove brake disc from wheel hub. 8. Install brake carrier on wheel bearing housing. Tightening torque for two ribbed bolts = 125 Nm. 9. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 10. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 11. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 12. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 13. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 14. Install both caps. 15. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!! Please Rate my Response! Thanks!

You may have contaminated brake fluid. The fluid gets too hot, caused the fluid to expand and lock up your brakes. once it cools it will allow you to move. Flush the brake system, start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and bleed the system until all the old dirty fluid is out. Just allow it to gravity bleed, don't waste your time doing the pump and release method. It only gives your buddy a sore foot and if you miscue you **** air back into the line.

Let me know if I can help you with any more info or guidance.

tony you probably need to replace the rubber brake line. the sometimes get A "FLAP' in them that doesnt allow fluid to return to the master cyl.

That's a good question, but for some reason I have found through the 35 years I have been doing brakes that for some strange reason the front calipers tend to get the debris because everything is pushed forward when you release the brakes.

TEST: When you calipers lock up, here is what want you to do to check to see if it is the master cylinder. Release the pressure by loosing the fittings at the master cylinder, if you can then turn the front wheels by hand, then you know for sure that the restriction is in the master cylinder.

If you still can't move the wheels then the problem is either in the front hoses, the calipers or the proportioning valve which adjust the pressure from front to rear. Sence the vehicle is low mileage its hard to believe it would be the lines themselves.

Let me know what you find after releasing the master cylinder fittings.

Waiting for reply!