I have a 94 Mazda B3000. Both brake lights went out. But the tail lights still work, turn signals work, and the reverse lights work. I repleaced the Bulbs, and checked the fuse. Fuses look fine and replacement bulbs still did not fix it. Any suggestions?
Moved yah, out of jeeps.
Check the brake light switch located under the dash, and is energized by depressing the brake pedal.
You would need to probably get on the ground and twist up under the steering wheel to see it. It's usually just level or slightly higher than the bottom of the dash, and normally on the driver side of the lever arm (as opposed to the floorboard side.).
It's probably not the flasher. You would need to pull the brake light switch and test with an ohm meter unless your good at measuring voltage with it installed. One side would have voltage, the other would only have voltage when the brake pedal is depressed.
That light and the rear brake lights are all on the same circuit.
Are you certain a wire has not gotten cut somewhere?
Oops, key point you make, the turn signals work. Do the rear turn signals use the same lamp as the brake lights? If yes, your going to need a wiring diagram for your car.
If not, then you may still need a wiring diagram, but I sure would be looking for a broken wire/bad connector somewhere, or something wrong at the brake light switch.
By the way, fuses looking fine, and a good fuse are two different things. Either check the fuses, or buy new ones to be sure we're not chasing some other issue here..
I don't have access to anything like your asking for. But, I do have a suggestion.
Call you local library and ask of they have the factory service manuals for your car. If they don't, ask who does, and if they can do an inter-loan for your vehicles year and model. If there are mulitple volumes, have them get them all.
You'll want to look through and then you can identify the locations of the components.
I did just happen to think of one place that might have exploded views. I'll look there and get back with you.
FYI - Your Mazda is the same as a Ford Ranger truck. So if the library doesn't have the FSM's for Mazda, see if they have the Ford version.
The Haynes manual might also have sufficient information. You can get a Haynes at the auto parts store.
Go to the autozone website and you can get online service information for your truck there.
I found the wiring diagram for your truck, and it looks like the problem is the brake light switch. Problem is, they show 3 different kinds of switches, two of them mount in the master cylinder, and one mounts at the brake pedal. I don't know which of the 3 your truck would use.
There is a possibility that it could be the headlight switch as well. I did not check on availability.
And for either of the switches, and I am not certain these are replacement switches, or switches that will functionally work as a replacement, but are not interchangeable replacements.
×
1,032 views
Usually answered in minutes!
is the swtich visible
when it is energized by the brake pedal does it light up or is there some sort of indication that it is working properly? how will i know if the switch is the right way or not?
I did not see a switch. There is an object that is plugged into the inside fuse box located under the dash. It says on it Wagner 224. 2 lamp 12 volt flasher. would this have anything do with the brake lights? It isjust a small plug.
same car. the rear light does not work on the back window. bulb has been replaced as well. any suggestions?
Is there anyway you can send me a diagram picture of the correct wires or the brake light switch? Some sort of picture to know what im looking for?
Thank you.
Any luck with the place with exploded views?
Fuse. If not replace the light sockets and pig tails to them.
checked all bulbs and fuses and all are fine. headlights, brake lights and turn signals all work fine, just no tail lights.
I also have a 94 Mazda B3000 and the brake lights went out with all other lights at the rear of the vehicle working. Bulbs were good and fuse was good. It took longer to track down the problem to the brake switch than it did to fix it. Buying a new switch is the easy way to fix this, but I took the switch out and tested it and it was good. The issue is the movement of the rod that goes through the firewall (to which the switch is attached) is insufficient and a metal shim was needed between the end of the rod and the brake switch to reduce the clearance. Once the shim is added, the clearance between the switch and the end of the rod is reduced enough to activate the switch again when the pedal is depressed. This happens with a small amount of wear on the parts involved over time. So take the switch out and test it first with a ohm meter to see if the switch is good, if it is good, you can use the "shim" method to fix or just go buy a new switch that hasn't been subject to 22 years of wear. The shim material I used was a piece of sheet metal, cut about 3/16" wide and about 1 1/2" long. My brake lights are working again without any cost.
×