1995 ford 7.3 powerstroke automatic shifts rough after transmission installed after replacing rear main seal

A rear seal is a big job. Best way to confirm is to clean it up real well and see if you can track down the leak.

In order to replace the rear main seal you will need some auto repair tools and experience . this is a big job , the transmission must be removed to replace this seal, also make sure that the seal is the leak,

oil always flows down, a leak on the top of the engine will flow down and drip at the center rear and look like a rear main seal , make sure that is the leak!!.

Depending on what engine you have and if it has 4 wheel drive the time for a shop to do is from 7 to 10 hours depending on engine size and 4wd,

dougnuts are never a good thing. the front seal on transmission could be leaking,if so the fluid will be red.it will drip down between the engine and transmission. if so, the transmission will need to come out fo r a replacement of front transmission seal. if it's clear fluid,it may be a bad steering rack. if it's black oil, it could be a bad rear main engine seal. if bad rear main seal,that transmission will need to come out for replacement of rear main engine seal.a abd rear main engine seal will also leak down between the engine and transmission and be black oil. check for color of the fluid leaking to give you a starting point to diagnose what to look for. thank you for choosing fixya.com

i have had 2 Dakota's a 4 cyl "LACK OF POWER" but never had a problem.
the other A 318 V8 14mpg but was a beast 4wheel drive the only problem I had with the v8 was when it rained water got on the dash bord,,,never figured out where it came from,
BUT I'd buy a 98 or newer one...
PROBLEMS LISTED BELOW!!

Air conditioner: If the air conditioner gradually stops cooling and/or the airflow from the vents decreases, the computer (PCM) may not be sending a signal to the compressor clutch relay to cycle off, which causes the AC evaporator to freeze up. (1991-95)

Automatic transmission: If the transmission will not engage when first started, chances are the torque converter is draining down. Chrysler will correct the problem by installing a check valve. (1993)

Automatic transmission: If the transmission won't upshift in cool weather, it is probably due to defective cast iron seal rings in the governor drive. (1992-94)

Engine fan noise: In warm weather, the fan makes a roaring sound. Dodge will replace the fan, the fan clutch, and, on max cooling systems, the radiator cap. (All)

Exhaust backfire: Exhaust backfire and/or a popping noise in the exhaust may be caused by a defective Powertrain Control Module. (1994-95)

Oil leak: Rear main seals on 2.5- and 4.0-liter engines are prone to leakage. To prevent future failures, Chrysler has a rubber plug available that goes in a hole above the starter that protects the rear main seal. (1996)

Oil leak: Oil leak at the filter on 3.9-, 5.2-, and 5.9-liter engines is likely due to a warped adapter plate. (1995)

Oil pump: Oil pump gear wear results in bucking and surging when the engine is warm and lack of lubrication when the engine is cold. (1992-93)

Rough idle: Because of a problem with the idle air control motor, the engine idles rough, stalls at low speeds or when decelerating, especially in warm weather. (1992-94)

Suspension noise: Front ball joints wear prematurely forcing relacement of lower control arm as well. Replacement joint with grease fitting is now available. (1990-96)

Transaxle leak: Automatic transmission fluid leaks from the speed sensor in the transmission. (1994)

Water leak: The roof seams leak water that seeps down behind the dashboard onto the floor. (1993-95)

I'm not sure if this is the right part of your car but, are you talking about the rear seal on the engine for the crankshaft?

If so:

Rear Main Oil Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Rear main seal installation for the 2.3L and 2.5L engines
Fig. 2: Removing the rear main seal
Fig. 3: Installing the rear main seal on the 2.9L engines
If the crankshaft rear oil seal replacement is the only operation being performed, it can be done in the vehicle as detailed in the following procedure. If the oil seal is being replaced in conjunction with a rear main bearing replacement, the engine must be removed from the vehicle and installed on a work stand.

1. Remove the starter.
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle, following the procedures in Section 7.
3. On a manual shift transmission, remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc following the procedure in Section 7.
4. Remove the flywheel attaching bolts and remove the flywheel and engine rear cover plate.
5. Use an awl to punch two holes in the crankshaft rear oil seal. Punch the holes on opposite sides of the crankshaft and just above the bearing cap to cylinder block split line. Install a sheet metal screw in each hole. Use two large screwdrivers or small pry bars and pry against both screws at the same time to remove the crankshaft rear oil seal. It may be necessary to place small blocks of wood against the cylinder block to provide a fulcrum point for the pry bars. Use caution throughout this procedure to avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the crankshaft oil seal surface. To install:
   
6. Clean the oil seal recess in the cylinder block and main bearing cap.
7. Clean, inspect and polish the rear oil seal rubbing surface on the crankshaft. Coat a new oil seal and the crankshaft with a light film of engine oil. Start the seal in the recess with the seal lip facing forward and install it with a seal driver. Keep the tool, T82L-6701-A (4-cyl. engines) or T72C-6165 (6-cyl. engine) straight with the centerline of the crankshaft and install the seal until the tool contacts the cylinder block surface. Remove the tool and inspect the seal to be sure it was not damaged during installation.
8. Install the engine rear cover plate. Position the flywheel on the crankshaft flange. Coat the threads of the flywheel attaching bolts with oil-resistant sealer and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequence across from each other to the specifications listed in the torque chart in this section.
9. On a manual shift transmission, install the clutch disc and the pressure plate assembly following the procedure in Section 7.
10. Install the transmission, following the procedure in Section 7.

This is a fun one. You can do this 2 different ways. One of which, remove the transmission and flexplate (automatic trans.) or flywheel (manual trans.) and you can loosen the rear main cap and pull the old rear main seal out and install the new one. The other way of replacing it is removing the engine and replacing the seal on an engine stand. Either way, it'll take some time to do.

I had the same problem on my 95. The problem was the torque converter was not unlocking. It had to be replaced.

This is most likely a leak from your rear main seal. It happens and can be a pain to replace if you're a DYI kinda person without the nec. equipment.

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
   
2. Remove the transmission.
   
3. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the clutch and pressure plate.
   
4. Remove the flywheel assembly.
   
5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully pry the old seal out.
   

6. Inspect the crankshaft for nicks or burrs, correct as required.
Crankshaft rear main seal - 5.7L engine

To install:

1. Clean the area and coat the seal with engine oil. Install the seal onto tool J-34686 for 3.4L engines, J 41349 for 3.8L engines or J 35621 for 5.7L engines.
   
2. Install the tool (with the seal mounted to it) onto the rear of the crankshaft. Tighten the screws snugly to be sure the seal will be installed squarely over the crankshaft.
   

Exploded view of the rear main seal installation - 3.4L engine
Click to Enlarge

1. Tighten the wing nut on the installation tool until it bottoms out.
   
2. Remove the tool from the crankshaft or rear oil seal housing, as applicable.
   

Rear main seal and installation tool - 3.8L engine
Click to Enlarge After position the seal on the tool, install it to the crankshaft housing

1. Install the flywheel.
   
2. If equipped with a manual transmission, install the clutch and pressure plate.
   
3. Install the transmission.
   
4. Check the fluid levels, start the engine and check for leaks.
   

Yes, the seal has a pressed fit and is bolted on te rear of the engine, in fact all japanese cars do that, keeps them from leaking for a long time.

Sounds like it might be leaking through the Torque Converter seal. Easy fix...just sucks having to take the tranny out again.