Oil leak from behind crankshaft pully.

I'm sorry, but I can't provide visual images or diagrams. However, I can describe the general order of gaskets in a 1999 Dodge Durango engine from the top going down:

1. Valve Cover Gaskets: These gaskets are located on top of the cylinder heads and seal the valve covers. They help prevent oil leaks from the top of the engine.
2. Intake Manifold Gasket: The intake manifold gasket seals the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. It helps maintain proper air-fuel mixture and prevents vacuum leaks.
3. Throttle Body Gasket: If equipped, the throttle body gasket seals the connection between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It ensures proper airflow into the engine.
4. Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: These gaskets are located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder heads. They seal the exhaust gases and prevent leaks.
5. Head Gaskets: The head gaskets are situated between the cylinder heads and the engine block. They seal the combustion chambers and coolant passages.
6. Oil Pan Gasket: The oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine and seals the oil pan to the engine block. It prevents oil leaks from the oil pan.
7. Front and Rear Main Seals: These seals are located at the front and rear of the engine crankshaft. They prevent oil leaks where the crankshaft exits the engine block.
8. Timing Cover Gasket: If equipped, the timing cover gasket seals the timing chain or belt cover to the engine block. It helps protect the timing components and prevents oil leaks.

An engine does not make oil, but it can spill the oil that should be inside. You could have an oil leak, which means that oil will be leaking from either the front or the rear oil seal. The front oil seal is just behind the crank pulley, the one that drives the fan / alternator belt. If oil is leaking from there, suspect the front seal.
If you have oil leaking from the bell housing, that the the bell shaped metal thingy between the engine and the gearbox. you can suspect the rear oil seal.
If you inspect the engine and see oil leaking from the oil pan under the engine, you have a leaking pan gasket. This can usually be solved by tightening the pan bolts, a whole lot of bolts underneath the engine.
Finally, and this is probably the worst, if you see oil around the breather pipe that goes from the valve cover on top of the engine to the gas intake system, you have leaking compression, that means either the valve stem seals are leaking or the compression rings are finished, and you will have to have the engine overhauled, or at the very least have the cylinder head overhauled.
If the rings are suspect, you will also have excessive smoke out of the exhaust when you drive, especially when you accelerate. Check the exhaust for signs of wet oil.

Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

2.6L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Hood
   • Accessory drive belts
   • Accelerator cable
   • Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose
   • Air intake duct
   • Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
   • Canister hose
   • Brake booster vacuum line
   • Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
   • Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
   • Heated Oxygen (HO2S) sensor connector
   • Alternator wiring connectors
   • Oil pressure switch connector
   • Starter motor harness connectors
   • Ignition coil connector
   • Spark plug wires
   • Distributor
   • Exhaust front pipe
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gas temperature sensor connector
   • Air pump
   • EGR pipe
   • Heat shield
   • Exhaust manifold
   • Throttle Position (TP) switch connector
   • Cooling fan
   • Water pump pulley
   • Power steering pump
   • Intake manifold
   • Crankshaft pulley
   • Front cover
   • Timing belt. Refer to the Timing Belt unit repair section.
   • Valve cover
   • Rocker arms
   • Camshaft
   • Cylinder head

Cylinder head bolt loosening sequence - 2.6L engine

1. To install:
2. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.
3. NOTE: Lubricate the cylinder head bolts with clean engine oil for assembly.
4. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows:
5. Step 1: 58 ft. lbs. (75 Nm)
6. Step 2: 72 ft. lbs. (98 Nm)

1. Install or connect the following:
2. Camshaft

• Rocker arms
• Valve cover
• Timing belt
• Front cover
• Crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (128 Nm).
• Intake manifold
• Power steering pump
• Water pump pulley
• Cooling fan
• TP switch connector
• Exhaust manifold
• Heat shield
• EGR pipe
• Air pump
• EGR gas temperature sensor connector
• Exhaust front pipe
• Distributor
• Spark plug wires
• Ignition coil connector
• Starter motor harness connectors
• Oil pressure switch connector
• Alternator wiring connectors
• HO2S sensor connector
• Ground cable connector at the intake manifold, starter and firewall
• Engine wiring harness connectors at right wheel housing
• Brake booster vacuum line
• Canister hose
• Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
• Air intake duct
• PCV valve and hose
• Accelerator cable
• Accessory drive belts
• Hood
• Negative battery cable

1. Fill the cooling system.
2. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Since it's not clear whether you mean driver side or passenger side, I will address both.

On the driver side, the most common leak is from the distributor. This can be caused by the distributor shaft exterior o-ring, or it can be caused by the distributor shaft interior bearing seal. To determine which it is, remove the distributor. First detach the spark plug wires, then undo the bolt that holds the distributor to the head, then pull the distributor out of the head. You will see the o-ring on the exterior of the distributor shaft. This is a $0.50 part, so just replace it with a new one as long as you have the distributor out. The bearing seal is on the inside of the distributor. To inspect it, undo the three bolts holding the cap to the distributor body. Pop the rotor off the shaft, the unclip the inside plastic cover. If you see any oil inside the distributor or the distributor cap, this means the seal is leaking and must be replaced. You can get a seal and bearing replacement kit from kbox.ca. Or, you can just buy a new distributor. Note: To get the distributor back in place you must align the shaft correctly with the notch in the camshaft. There is a right way and a wrong way. If the shaft seems to be aligned but does not go in, pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees, then put it back in.

The other possibility on the driver side of the engine is the main seal between the engine and transmission. If this is the case, you would have to either drop the transmission or pull the engine to replace it.

What if the oil is leaking on the passenger side? If it's coming from behind the timing belt cover, there is a camshaft seal and a crankshaft seal, both of which can leak oil. To get to them, you will have to remove all accessory belts and the alternator, remove the exterior crankshaft pulley, remove the engine mount (support the engine) and the timing belt covers, remove the timing belt, then the crankshaft pulley and/or camshaft pulley, whichever is necessary to replace the leaking seal(s).

Where else could oil be leaking from? If it's coming out from near the top of the engine, that's the valve cover gasket. Remove the valve cover and replace the gasket. While you're at it, replace the spark plug tube seals.

If it's coming out from near the bottom of the engine, it could be the oil pan gasket. Remove the oil pan and replace the gasket.

One more possibility for oil leakage: The head gasket. But in this case you would have noticed other symptoms besides just an oil leak.

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

Could be head gasket, burnt valve or worn piston rings. Hows the oil pressure? low oil pressure will indicate a badly worn engine. High oil level in crankcase but good oil pressure might point to a blown head gasket. Also a pressure test on the cooling system may help with diagnoseing head gasket. Consult your shop manual for instructions.
Good luck. Please rate, thanks.

Hi,

That engine will leak oil from

- cam cover gaskets (rear one drips on the exhaust)
- camshaft end seals
- distributor shaft o-ring (appears on top of transaxle housing)
- oil filter bracket to block o-ring seal (drips on front bank exhaust)
- crankshaft nose oil seal (have done with timing belt change)
- rear main seal (expensive, leave it be)

Dear Friend
Removal: Support engine: remove -engine mounting, auxiliary drive belt, water pump pulley, crankshaft pully bots & crankshaft pully, timing belt covers....turn crankshaft to TDC on No 1 cylinder, ensure crankshaft sprocket, camshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket & balancer shaft sprocket timing marks lighned. Pls note: Timing marks on camshaft sprockets should align with cylinder head uppter face, dowl pins on camshaft sprockets should face downwards....Slacken tensioner botl. Move tensioner away from belt & tighten bolt.
Remove: automatic tensioner unit bolts, automatic tensioner unit, timing belt, crankshaft bolt, crankshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket guide washer...slacken balancer shaft belt rensioner bolt, move tensioner away from belt & lightly tighten bolt...Remove balancer shaft belt.

Installation:
ensure timeing marks aligned.Note: Timing marks on camshaft sprockets ahould align with cylinder head upper face, exhaust sprocket mark is on recess but inlet sprocket mark is on tooth. To check oil pump sprocket positionded sorrectly: remove blanking plug from cylinder block, insert 8mm diameter Phillips screwdriver in hole. ensure screwdriver is inserded 60mm from face of cylinder block. If screwdriveer can only be inserted 20mm-turn oil pump sprocket 360". Inset screwdiver again.
Fit balancer shaft delt in anti-clockwise direction starting at crandkshaft sprocket....Slacken balancer shaft belt tensioner notl, turn tensioner clockwise to tension belt. Tighten bolt to 15-22 Nm... Applu thump pressure to belt at tentioner, belt should deflect 5-7mm. If not: Repeat tensioning procedure.... Install - chankshaft sprocket guide washer & crankshaft sprocket.
Thighten crankshaft centre bolt, tightening torque:110-130Nm. Please note, ensure crankshaft sprocket guide washer is fittet correctly. oil threads & contact face crankshaft botl before fitting.

96 escort 1.9L




Engine Components
Item Part Number Description 1 6766 Oil Filler Cap 2 6A548 (8 Req'd) Valve Cover Bolt 3 6582 Valve Cover 4 — Exhaust Manifold Shield-to-Exhaust Manifold Nut (4 Req'd) 5 9A462 Exhaust Manifold Shield 6 — Exhaust Manifold Shield Stud (4 Req'd) 7 9430 Exhaust Manifold 8 9454 Exhaust Manifold Nut 9 9448 Exhaust Manifold Gasket 10 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Fine Thread), Short (4 Req'd) 11 — Exhaust Manifold Stud, Long (1 Req'd) 12 — Exhaust Manifold Stud (Medium Thread), Short (1 Req'd) 13 6518 Valve Spring Retainer Key 14 6514 Valve Spring Retainer 15 6513 Valve Spring and Damper, Intake 16 6C515 Valve Tappet Guide Plate Retainer 17 6571 Valve Stem Seal 18 6513 Valve Spring, Exhaust 19 12405 Spark Plug 20 6269 Camshaft Thrust Plate 21 — Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt (2 Req'd) 22 — Cup Plug 23 6B273 Camshaft Oil Flow Control Rod 24 6K292 Camshaft Front Seal 25 6256 Camshaft Sprocket 26 6278 Camshaft Sprocket Washer 27 6K252 Camshaft Sprocket Retaining Bolt 28 6L269 Camshaft Sprocket Key (5 x 18) 29 6250 Camshaft 30 6051 Head Gasket 31 6A008 Cylinder Head to Block Dowel 32 6010 Cylinder Block 33 6507 Intake Valve 34 6505 Exhaust Valve 35 6049 Cylinder Head 36 — Intake Manifold Stud (7 Req'd) 37 17A084 Engine Lifting Eye 38 — Engine Lifting Eye Bolt (2 Req'd) 39 9439 Intake Manifold Gasket 40 — Bolt 41 9723 Accelerator Cable Bracket 42 9424 Intake Manifold 43 — Intake Manifold Nut (7 Req'd) 44 9D476 EGR Valve Gasket 45 — Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Bolt (2 Req'd) 46 9D475 EGR Valve 47 — Fuel Injection Supply Manifold Bolt
(2 Req'd) 48 9F593 Fuel Injector 49 9D930 Fuel Charging Wiring 50 6786 Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket 51 — Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket Bolt 52 6754 Oil Level Indicator Tube 53 6750 Oil Level Dipstick 54 9D280 Fuel Injection Supply Manifold 55 — Vacuum Fitting 56 9E498 Main Emission Vacuum Control Connector 57 — Vacuum Tap 58 — Vacuum Hose 59 9B989 Throttle Position Sensor 60 — Screw and Washer 61 9F782 Throttle Position Sensor Gasket 62 — Throttle Body Bolt (4 Req'd) 63 — Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolt
(2 Req'd) 64 9F715 Idle Air Control Valve 65 9F670 Idle Air Control Gasket 66 9E926 Throttle Body 67 9E936 Throttle Body Gasket 68 — Vacuum Fitting 69 — Camshaft Position Sensor Screw 70 6B288 Camshaft Position Sensor 71 8255 Water Hose Connection Gasket 72 — Water Hose Connection Bolt (3 Req'd) 73 8592 Water Hose Connection 74 8575 Water Thermostat 75 6065 Cylinder Head Bolts 76 6500 Valve Tappet 77 6K512 Valve Tappet Guide Plate 78 6564 Rocker Arm 79 6A528 Rocker Arm Seat 80 6A527 Rocker Arm Bolt (8 Req'd) 81 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket Bolt
(3 Req'd) 82 18827 Noise Filter Condenser 83 — Ignition Coil Mounting Bolt (4 Req'd) 84 12259 Spark Plug Wire Set 85 12029 Ignition Coil 86 12043 Ignition Coil Mounting Bracket A — Tighten to 5-12 Nm (4-9 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 21-26 Nm (16-19 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 2-10 Nm (1.5-7 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 8-13 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 40-55 Nm (30-41 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft) I — Tighten to 8-10 Nm (6-8 Lb-Ft) J — Tighten to 8-11 Nm (6-9 Lb-Ft) K — Tighten to 23-30 Nm (17-22 Lb-Ft) L — Tighten to 20-40 Nm (15-30 Lb-Ft) M — Tighten to 4.5-7 Nm (3-5 Lb-Ft) N — Tighten to 18-26 Nm (13-19 Lb-Ft)

did you check the steering pump, AC compression pump, etc or other engine components ? it could be something other than the engine.