Click on the following direct, Free Link. It has several Diagrams including the Timing Belt + Marks for your 2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder Engine (located on the bottom half of the Page on the Link). There are additional Diagrams that will prove to be helpful while you are doing this...
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Here is all the tech info for removing and replacing....hope this helps you:
4-Cylinder Engine
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Right hand engine cover
Cover over the right headlamp
Accessory drive belt
Front timing cover
Servo reservoir
Position Volvo lifting beam 999 5006 or equivalent slightly in front of the front lifting eyelet for the engine. Use Volvo lifting arm 999 5383 or equivalent and Volvo lifting hook 999 5460 or equivalent to raise the front of the engine a few millimeters.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Right-hand engine mount
Right front wheel
Turn the crankshaft until the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond. Turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 turn clockwise and then back again until the markings correspond. The markings are illustrated. Remove the upper timing cover.
Slacken off the center screw for the belt tensioner slightly.
Turn the tensioner clockwise to 10 o'clock.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Air baffles
Lower belt cover
Timing belt
To install:
Turn all the pulleys listening for bearing noise. Check to see that the contact surfaces are clean and smooth. If the tensioner pulley lever or idler is seized, replace it.
If replacing with a new idler pulley, tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
If replacing tension pulley, screw into place using the center bolt by hand. Ensure that the tensioner fork is centered over the cylinder block rib. Ensure that the Allen hole on the eccentric is at "10 o'clock".
Install the timing belt in the following order:
Around the crankshaft sprocket
Around the idler pulley
Around the camshaft sprockets
Around the water pump
Onto the belt tensioner
Carefully turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing belt is tensioned. The belt must be tensioned between the intake camshaft pulley, the idler pulley and the crankshaft
Hold the belt tensioner center screw secure. Turn the belt tensioner eccentric counter-clockwise until the tensioner indicator passes the marked position.
Then turn the eccentric back so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the center of the window and tighten the center bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
Press the belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.
Install or connect the following:
Lower belt guard
Air baffles
Upper timing cover
Turn the crankshaft two turns. Check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley correspond.
NOTE
Check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked area.
Install or connect the following:
Lower timing cover
Front timing cover and tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm)
Accessory drive belt
Engine mount and tighten to 49 ft. lbs. (67 Nm)
Servo reservoir. Tighten bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
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The marks on the chain are for your convenience i.e. no need to count links between crank and cam(s).
The chain markings shift depending on the number of links in the chain and number of teeth on the crank and cam gears, but the number of links (rotational distance) between crank and cams remains the same.
Once you turn the crank it it may take dozens of revolutions to sync back to the marks on the chain, unless you reverse the same number of revolutions.
So if you want to recheck timing after multiple crank revolutions, you need to count links from crank to cam and cam to cam or redo the timing procedure.
Think of it this way... you could stretch a chain around the moon and timing will be good but it will take hundreds of thousands of revolutions before the marks return to earth and likely still not in sync with gear marks.
In the old small block days no one counted links because crank and cam gears were adjacent, in the same planes and timing intuitive.
With Cam Caps loosened, FIRST loosen timing chain tensioner, press it in to loosen tension, Crank using ratchet to TDC (Top Dead Center on crank pully, (to keep from damage to pistons), align Exhaust Cam Timing Mark to mark on #1 Exhaust cam cover, then take up slack between Exhaust & Intake Cams (on top between the cams), Then align the Intake Cam to mark on #1 Cam Cap, "Now" loosen the 17mm bolt to tighten timing chain, rotate engine using rachet two times, reset TDC at the crank, and look at "Cam Timing Marks on both the Exhaust, and Intake Cams. If you did all this correctly the "Timing Marks" should be lined up so TDC,Exhaust, and Intake marks are all the same.
You can rotate the cam/crank into a positon that will not move as you remove the old belt, as long as the new belt places the cam/crank in same position as the old belt had them, it don't matter where the timing marks are. Leave your old belt on, rotate to a position that will not move or have tension on belt, (no matter the marks) and replace the belt. Make sure to recheck timing marks after new belt is installed by rotating the crank/cam back to timing marks, or just trust that the belt was replaced without the cam or crank rotated. Easy off, easy on, just make sure the cam/crank are still in time as the old belt had them located. NOTE: timing marks are there in case of a broke belt, or for a car that has jumped time. As long as cam and crank are held in same positon, and car was in time before the procedure, it don't matter where the timing marks are at during belt replacement.
Align the chain with the colored links on the chain over the marks on the cams.Twin cams Have a small hole on the cam gears that will align with a hole in the front of head.Crank Gear has a pip mark that goes straight up.colored links on crank go to the 5 & 7 Oclock position on the lower crank gear with pip mark on crank gear at 12:00.Hope this helps
well not sure exactly why it wont line up use something to turn the crank and cam to appropiate position start sliding crank gear until cam gear is touching then start to push both at same time make sure your crank key and cam pin are bothin place
On many OHV pushrod engines, the crankshaft sprocket is installed on the crankshaft nose and the crankshaft is rotated to position piston #1 at TDC. At this point, a mark stamped onto the crankshaft sprocket is pointing directly upward (toward the camshaft).
The camshaft sprocket is then temporarily bolted to the cam and used to rotate the cam until a mark stamped on the cam sprocket is pointing directly downward (toward the crankshaft). The sprocket is then removed from the cam (without allowing the cam to rotate).
The timing chain is looped over the cam gear, the mark on the cam gear is positioned directly downward, and the chain is looped around the crankshaft sprocket. When the cam sprocket is attached to the cam, the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets should be pointing toward one another.
normally on most cars there is a mark indented in the cam\cams and a matching mark on the block usally a small dot. and the same on the crank on some cranks it also has a degree mark for setting the advance timing at the crank...not always though
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