Electrical Hazard Lights and Direction Indercaters will not work but the Alarm locking system works,we have checked fuses and they are all ok

It sounds like there may be an issue with the battery or the electrical system in your 2006 Infiniti M35. Without more information, it's hard to give a specific diagnosis, but a few things you can try include:

• Checking the battery terminals to make sure they are clean and securely connected.
• Checking the fuses related to the electrical systems that aren't working (e.g. the headlight and dash light fuses) to make sure they haven't blown.
• Checking the starter to see if it's getting power and working properly.

There should be 6 relays in the fuse box. Using your manual, find the turn signal relay and replace it.

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to sub category.

check fuse Stop/Haz Haz. Flasher, Seat Belt Buzzer, Stop Lmps., A.B.S. Memory and the flasher itself.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+chevy+suburban+hazard+flasher+location

Fuse Box Diagram Chevrolet Suburban (GMT400; 1993 ...

https://fuse-box.info > chevrolet > chevrolet-suburban-...
Fuse box diagram (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Chevrolet (Chevy) Suburban (GMT400; 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999)

it needs to be programmed at the dealer to do this, has to be done through their handheld tool

ck for a fuse in the under the hood fuse box that says bsm may be blown.
Also try this.....
To reset the security system remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes, then reconnect the cable. Next, lock and unlock the doors using the remote. This will reset the alarm system and the engine will start and fobs reset.

Here are some factory notes....FYI

Anti-Theft Systems

PROGRAMMING

NOTE: If a new Smart Entrance Control Module (SECU) is installed, a new identity code must be entered and all remote controllers must be programmed. If identity code cannot be entered, repair multi-remote system. See appropriate MULTI-REMOTE CONTROL SYSTEMS article.

PROGRAMMING > PROGRAMING NEW ID CODE

NOTE: This procedure will erase all previous identity codes and render all previously programmed remote controllers inoperative (until reprogrammed). All remote controllers to be used with system must be programmed at the same time. A maximum of 4 remote controllers can be programmed. Any attempt to program more than 4 controllers will be ignored. If same identity code is entered more than once, entry is ignored even though hazard warning lights will still flash twice.
1. Close and lock all doors. Erase original identity code(s) by inserting and completely removing key from ignition switch more than 6 times within 10 seconds. Hazard warning lights should flash twice. Turn ignition switch to ACC position.
2. Push any button on new remote controller once. Hazard warning lights should flash twice, indicating identity code has been entered. If identity code cannot be entered, repair multi-remote system. See appropriate MULTI-REMOTE CONTROL SYSTEMS article.
3. For each additional remote controller to be programmed, manually release door lock and lock again by using door panel switch and repeat step 2. If no additional remote controllers are to be used, exit programming mode by unlocking and opening driver's door.

Please let me know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed. Happy mew Year!

may have to purchase an electrical shopm manual for more information

Your and all hazard light systems works hot all the time mean works even car is off!!
you may have problem with your electrical system good idea to get check by electrical specialist! its can be simple worn fuse or relay but right trouble shooting save you money and time!

I could not tell you how many times people have brought their cars into my shop and tell me that they had already checked all fues and they are OK, then I check the car and find a blown fuse or a fuse that is completely missing.

Your dash (Instrument Cluster) illumination lights are powered by the "PARK LP" fuse in the underhood fuse panel - it is fuse number 37 and should be a 20 Amp fuse. If this fuse is blown, your Park lights on the exterior of the car will also not be working. If they are working and your dash lights are not, then the problem is probably in your headlamp switch.

Your Brake lights are powered by the "STOP LAMP" fuse in the instrument panel (IP) fuse block it is a 15 Amp fuse.

Your Hazzard lights are powered by the "HAZZARD" fuse in the (IP) also a 15 Ap fuse.

If both of these fuses are good, then the most likely problem with your brake and hazzard lamps is the multifunction (Turn Signal) switch.

What any of the above has to do with replacing your window regulators remains a mystery.

check for the complete fuse box and search for short circuits. Check the fuses and the amps of each. Did you change the battery for a new one? Did you install any device not OEM? An alarm? Check the cable system. If this is ok, scan it.

Sounds like you may have a bad ground clean battery terminals!! get wiring schematic!!!! Good Luck!!!!