Changing front breaks on a 2006 titan...cant seem to get the caliper over the new break pads

1.jack up both tire.
2.remove tire.
3.unbolt break caliper.
4.remove old break pads and take cap off break fluid.
5.use pliers or c clamps to push back in caliper to sit ffush.
6.install new break pads
7.reverse process

Not hard at all. Just lift car, take wheel off. Spot the Caliper. Take the two guide pins (bolts) out and slide the caliper off the pads. Pull both old pads off and replace them with the new ones. Place brake grease on the outside of the pads where the calipers push on them or they will squeek badly. Use a C-clamp or a break tool (that you can borrow from AutoZone) to push the caliper piston back in so it will fit over the new pads (while doing this, watch the break fluid resivoir as you may need to take some out so it does not overfill). Then slide the caliper back over the pads. Place some grease on the guide pins and then put them back in. Then put the wheel back on.
Make sure you start the car and pump the breaks until you feel them grab again or you won't have breaks until they do.

Front or rear brakes? The fronts are normal disc brakes, but the rears are drum. Basically, this means the fronts are super simple to swap out pads, but the rears... not so much.

For the fronts:
1) Secure the car. Park, Parking brake, chocks behind the rear wheels. (Unless you use a lift)
2) Break loose the lug nuts. (Do NOT remove them yet. ONLY break the torque on them.)
3) Jack the front of the car up. Alternatively, use a lift.
4) Remove wheels.
NOTE: Do NOT EVER disconnect the hose going to the calipers. Doing this, even for a moment, will require a full bleed of the break system. Failure to correctly bleed the air from the system will result in having either uneven breaking, NO breaks, or somewhere in between.
5) On the inboard side of the caliper there should be two bolts. (On some models the caliper itself has the bolts and you can remove one and service it without having to remove the assembly.) If needed, remove the assembly from the hub by removing the two bolts. Try not to kink/damage/be too rough on the brake hose. Securing it with a ziptie, string, or wire is a good idea.
6) You should now be able to simply remove the old pads from the calipers.
7) Put the new pads into the calipers and reassemble. It's a good idea to put some medium strength lock-tite on the bolts to help prevent them from backing out. Make sure these two bolts are torqued down securely as if they back off the caliper could come off while driving.
8) After installing new pads there may not be enough clearance to accommodate the rotor. You will need to very carefully retract the pistons back inside the caliper to get this clearance back. It will NOT be easy/quick, but be careful so as not to damage the piston.
9) Best practices dictate you should at a minimum have the rotors "turned" or simply replaced EVERY time you replace the brake pads. Doing this will help ensure maximum stopping power and longevity of both rotor & pad.
10) Once everything is back together and the car is on the ground follow the pad manufacturers "bedding" instructions.

If you are wanting to service the rears... that's another (much more complex and involved) matter. :(

When you said, the bleed valve had to be loosed before the caliper would release, (caliper is already replaced), then we know there was a lot of preasure in the braking lines backed up some where,
and every time the brakes are applied to compress the the caliper to stop your truck,
the preasure would not release,
This
Is a clear indication that the Flexible Rubber Brake Hose attached to the caliper is backed up, clogged, kinked, etc..
That would be the next item in the brake system to check.
Its Bottom Up Disagnostics...
When the hose is off try to slide a strong piece of wire (metal clothes hanger) through the hose..

SOLUTION:
Replace Rubber Brake Line's, on both sides.
I reccomend Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line.

Here is a video that kinda shows corrosion in a rubber hose.
Also check out other videos on youtube.

-Set up jack and properly block front tires.

-Do not set parking break as this may hender removing the rear calipers. Open hood and remove the brake resevoir cap.

-Remove hubcaps if applicable,

-Loosen Lugnuts but do not remove,

-Jack up van,

-Remove tire.

-Caliper should be visible. There are two bolts or hex heads on the back side that can be a pain to remove sometimes.

-Pull the caliper off the rotor, It is recomended to have the rotors turned or replaced. With the old pad still in place, take a c clamp or brake caliper squeezer and compress the caliper

-remove old pad, take note for the reinstall of the new pad.

-reverse the steps. This is a simple break down. Hope it helps

depress pad springs.you remove pad pins from caliper you have to use size 5/32 punch.to knock pins toward the inside.

yes, The springs clip onto the pads on the ends, you can see how they would hook over. Pot you silicone on the the outside of the spring

Hello, I just happen to be doing my breaks too. Open the bleeder port on the caliper and put a flat piece of metal across both pistons and compress them with a C-clamp. When you have them compressed close the bleeder port and remove the clamp and install caliper. You should always compress the caliper piston with the bleeder open especially with ABS brakes. Otherwise you have to reset the ABS. Good luck and remember to add brake fluid.

Hi..it is usual for lots of cars to shake while breaking do to warp rotors caused by heat when braing ,have them resurface and I allmost certain that this will fix your problem... good luck)(

This is an easy one. Abs or no abs changing the pads is the same.

You have to unbolt the caliper, pull out the old pads and reseat the caliper piston ( I use a large C-Clamp and the old pad to push the piston back into place.)

You are probably going to want to get your rotors turned. i bring mine to NAPA.

Put in the new pads, bolt the Caliper back on and your good to go.