Own a 2005 ford 500. recently had front and rear pads replaced at 93k miles. Several days later warning lights started on startup ABS etc. Several days later unable to start car, battery drained. Jumped started car and used it througout the day without problems. Following day, put key in ignition, all abs lights, repair logo etc were on. Also, radio, started without any help and cd player started initializing. Unable to start without jumper cables again. Mechanic says battery is draining but unable to id source. Can you help

VSC ABS and ! lights plus red (!) - Toyota Prius Forum ...

www.priusonline.com/...toyota-prius.../19804-vsc-abs-lights-plus-red.ht...

Jun 3, 2008 - 8 posts - ‎3 authors
If the accumulator fails, you will get a red brake warning light and the pump will now run continuosly until it burns out. ... hydraulic pressure to the brake system and "no"red warning lights. .... Fog Lights, PassGas, Toyota Prius General Discussion, 4, 10-13-2005 09:12 AM ... 11-13-2015 10:01 PM by Tim Lee.

Alarm with Brake Light, ABS, VSC and amber warning lights ' PriusChat

priuschat.com > ... > Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting

Jul 26, 2005 - Later that same day - I started getting an alarm - as soon... ... Gen 2 (2004-2009) Toyota Prius Forums > Gen 2 Prius Care, ... Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by NorthStar, Jul 26, 2005. ... I am getting the red BRAKE LIGHT, the amber waming symbol, ABS, and ... VSC, ABS, (!) and emergency brake light on
Feb 5, 2010
Brake, Brake warning, ABS, VSC appear
Oct 5, 2008
More results from priuschat.com

which brake warning light is on? the xtype does not have pad wear sensors fitted. so i guess you mean the abs light or the handbrake light.more than likely its the abs light and the common problem is the reluctor rings on one or the other of the rear outer constant velocity joints corroded/ fell off get the fault codes out of the abs module to help.

The ABS light comes on when there is a malfuntion in the ABS system, not when the brakes are low. On a Ford you more than likely have a dirty sensor or pick up ring on the back side of the rotor. And no you do not have to change the rear drum brakes when changing your front pads but they should be inspected.
Usually you will change 2-3 sets of front pads before the rears need to be changed.

Hello, These warning lights are pretty accurate. Autozone, Advance, and Oreillys give free scans although the engine system and brake system can require different scanners.

Check your brake fluid level first. The ABS system requires sensors which require counting the revolutions of each wheel. Sometimes the sensors may break, but they can be blinded by dust and debris.

If you have a broken brake pad, the warning light can come on. Often the Emergency brake pad, inside the rear Rotor, can fall apart and trigger an ABS warning.

You need to inspect both the front and rear brakes or take your car to a brake shop for evaluation. Sometimes you can get a free estimate, and some shops can charge for inspecting the Emergency brakes because of the work needed to reach them.

e-brake pedal should go farther- is either out of adjustment or cable frozen- secondly sounds like only front brakes receiving enough pressure to "activate" properly- bleed all four brakes starting rear pass,then rear drive ,then front pass, then front drive- use plenty of fluid- bleed till fluid is clean without bubbles- will that long at first- this will insure not bubbles and no moisture- if a pro valve dies,you would have more problems- pedal would be really soft,would have both a brake light and abs warning lights

as the mot only says the "brakes work"to a certain efficiency,(the tester does NOT check the depth/thickness of the pads),chances are your pads/discs are in need of replacement.the pads have sensors in them for wear depth, so when checking the pads,front AND rear the abs sensors can be cleaned,and if done by a seat/skoda/vw/audi dealer they can put it on the diagnostic computer to give you a definative answer (this is cheaper than guessing) I replace the pads myself but get the car "diagnosed"when any red light shows.

OK, sounds like the alternator should be replaced.

Its a good idea to turn your rotors if your putting on new pads so that you get a good seat.  The steering wheel vibration may be your new pads wearing in and trying to find a good seat.  Give it another 500 miles for break in period and if you still get the problem, then replace the pads with better ones and check to see if your rotors are not warped.  Your pads will never seat correctly if your rotors are warped and make sure you use plenty of that shim goop they give you in the package before putting on the pads.

It sounds like you might be having a problem with your Electronic control module. Are the only codes coming up just for the sensor? Have you recently cleaned your engine or driven in very wet weather? If so, water could have gotten into your connections at the modules and causing odd codes. I hope this helps. Jay

Did you buy factory pads or get cheap aftermarket pads? If aftermarket did you get the ceramic? The cheap aftermarket ones tend to squeal pretty bad. Like the last comment on here, you should have your rotors turned whenever you change the pads.