Can a o2 sensor keep engine from starting - Endeavor Mitsubishi Cars & Trucks

To clarify, none of this has anything to do with your a/c.
Code 650 is for a problem with the check engine light circuit.
Code 30 and 134 involve the heater circuit for the O2 sensor in front of the catalytic converter. The O2 sensors have a heater that allows the sensors to start working quickly after you start the engine. The sensor and the heater circuit would need to be tested.
The O2 sensors have nothing to do with your car heater or A/C.

The upstream (ahead of the catalytic converter) O2 sensor heater circuit has failed. Replaced the upstream O2 sensor and all will be well. O2 sensors wil lnot work below 650 degrees F. To get them functioning sooner after a cold start, and during times when the exhaust is not very hot (idling at stop lights), designers placed a filament inside the O2 sensors to keep them hot so they can measure O2 levels int he exhaust stream (which alloows the engine compouter to mete out the right amonut of fuel to keep the engine running efficiently.) The filament fails open after time so it no longer can heat the sensor. The only solution is to replace the O2 sensor, which is not a big deal.

Your problem is being caused by a leaky power steering switch.

The switch develops a leak, which causes power steering fluid to seep into the engine wiring harness. The seepage eventually finds its way into the front O2 sensor, which then shorts out. The engine computer then starts reading a lean condition, and enriches the fuel/air mix going into the engine to compensate. However, since the shorted O2 sensor never responds to the extra fuel, the engine computer keeps shooting more and more excess fuel.

Replacing the O2 sensor by itself will not help matters, as you may have guessed. The seepage will have about a week or two to short out the new O2 sensor, then you will start seeing the same problem again.

The cure is to replace the leaky power steering switch (it's near the power steering pump), spray brake cleaner into the wiring harness until it drips off from near the front O2 sensor, let dry, and replace the front O2 sensor again. All of these actions must be completed, or you will see another recurrence of this exact problem.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113307

The 1137 OBD2 code is typically an o2 sensor problem as you have indicated, first I would make sure your replacing the correct o2 sensor as there are two (upstream and downstream), although it is possible that a bad o2 sensor could keep your engines fuel injection system from delivering the fuel to your engine, in my experience having a bad sensor typically results in a check engine light and running with a less than optimum fuel air mixture, it does not typically keep your vehicle from starting. If your still getting the 1137 error code after replace the o2 sensor and checking its connecting wires I would start looking for a bigger issue.

your front oxygen sensor/lambda sensor is broken. you need to replace it. it stalls because o2 sensors start to work at higher temperatures(when cold car uses previous know error free mixture ratio - rich mixture). when engine is warmed up, your o2 sensor cant read correct values and engine controller cant decide on required amount of fuel to be burned in chamber.

the only way an o2 sensor would keep a car from starting is if its back feeding power to pcm, this sounds like you may have other problems, you will need to have a scan tool connected to computer and get some readings and see if there are any codes, i would start with the basics, is there fuel getting to injectors and is there spark. the only problem is you would need certain tool to check fuel pressure . anyway i dont belive a bad o2 would keep it from starting, it would cause it to run bad and then the computer would use stored reading to keep engine running and turn on engine light . good luck.

Okay, lets start with you checking the fuel preasure regulator, this is a common problem with these the regulator leaks and the vac line connected to it starts sucking gas into the intake, this causing it to run rich and depending on how bad the leak is it will stall engine at idle, remove the vacuum hose from regulator and start engine then see if gas shoots out the vac connection on the regulator, if it does then replace regulator, hope this helps.

is the your car engine cranking when you try to start, first check spark plugs ignition coils, remove one ignition coil and spark plug fix the spark plug in to the ignition coil then connect ignition coil to wiring and keep spark plug body touching on ground of engine head mettle parts, ask some one to crank engine then you can see is the plug sparking or not, do the same way to all the coils and plug otherwise you have to buy a ignition spark tester, is the all the coils and spark plugs are OK then check the fuel pump, it's sitting in under rear seat, before that do one thing disconnect oxygen (O2) sensor wiring and crank engine, the thing is if your oxygen sensor completely dead fuel pump will stop working, if engine start after disconnect O2 sensor, replace new O2 sensor, otherwise need to check fuel pump relay fuse and fuel pump. is this information helped you? please vote me and give a comment.

P1135 means that your O2 sensor has gone bad. The O2 sensor on the Toyota's are called Air fuel sensor's. If you have a 4 cylinder engine, the O2 is on the exhaust down pipe before the catalytic converter, and if it's a V6 it the O2 sensor on the fire wall side along the down pipe from the exhaust manifold. (sensor 1, bank 1) Good luck and keep me posted, check the wire harness. The wire harness could have corroded or burnt from the exhaust, but most likely it's going to be a bad O2. Keep me posted ,be glad to help

vehicle may have more than 1 o2 sensor. have u checked to see if it has more? most vehicles have more than 1