Replacement Bulbs Hi guys, trying to find replacement bulbs for a 1997 BMW z3... looking for the code I need and which type... cos looking on ebay, I saw two types, the H7 type looks pretty standard but there is also a HB3 and HB4 type which has got a plastic bit at the bottom... so a little confused. Please can someone explain? Thanks

Timing chain. I need help adjusting impulse and camshaft unit ...

bimmerfest.com https://www.bimmerfest.com > threads > timing-chain-...
Jan 24, 2013 - I need help with timing chain impulse and camshaft unit inline adjustment. Hello. I need help with top part of the timing chain 97 bmw z3 1.9L.?

How do i set the cam timing on my 98 1.9 z3

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > BMW Questions
Jul 17, 2011 - Hello! Welcome to justanswer! Line up the engine to where #1 is up all the way exactly. Then loosen the cam wheels for the chains.

What milage is the timing belt/chain recommended for ...

Bimmerforums.com https://www.bimmerforums.com > forum > showthread
Mar 5, 2007 - Z3s use a timing chain and should not ever need to be replaced. Thats how it is on the newer motors anyway, anyone with a 1.9 know if that one ...

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BMW E30/E36 Camshaft Timing and VANOS Unit Installation

Pelican Parts https://www.pelicanparts.com > BMW > techarticles
Need to retime your cams? VANOS unit need replacing? Here's the details on timing your engine, and the install of this tricky unit.
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Fuses shouldn't keep blowing and that was the cue to get it looked at. You either need to get it towed to the dealership, or contact a mobile auto-electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to diagnose the electronics. This is not the type of issue you can fix yourself unless you spend $3.5k to $5k on a bi-directional scanner.

The brake lamp circuits on your 1997 BMW Z3 are pretty "old-school" and straight forward. Fuse #46 (15 Amp), located in the Front Power Distribution Box at the left rear side of the engine compartment supplies battery voltage to the brake light switch via the VIOLET/GREEN wire going into the switch. When the bake pedal is depressed, the voltage leaves the brake lamp switch on the BLUE/RED wire and supplies power to all of the brake lamp bulbs.

The brake lamp circuits do branch off and go to several control modules. This is ONLY for module INPUT to tell the module that the brakes are being applied. These modules include:
> Transmission Control Module
> Cruise Control Module
> ABS Control Module
> Slip Control Module

The ONLY way that any of these modules could be affecting the operation of your brake lamps is if there is an internal short to ground in the module that is causing the brake lamp fuse to blow.

If NONE of your brake lamps are working, the most likely causes are:
> Fuse #46 open (blown)
> Defective brake lamp switch
> Bad ground connection at ground G400 (Left side of luggage compartment)
> All 3 of your brake lamp bulbs burned out.

Yes, the BLUE/RED wire could be broken as well, but I would check all the other things listed above first.

hi.
the side light and the high beam will be different bulbs. they may appear to be the same, but if you look carefully, there is a smaller bulb, normally just below the main bulb. the sidelight will usually be a small 5watt bulb where the main beam bulb will be much larger, and anywhere between 45 and 65 watts. look for the smaller bulb and replace that first..

if you are referring to the back light in the cluster, there are several 'Christmas' lights in the cluster. you can access this by removing the cluster which isn't too technical. how ever i like to remove the steering wheel as this makes it easier. you will need T-30 Torx driver. and a 23mm 1/2' socket. to remove the steering wheel. then its a few screws (cross or Philips which ever you prefer) and a couple of connectors and you can pull out the cluster to see which style bulb it is. usually there are 1-2 types of bulbs in there clusters.

Keep in mind there are 2 screws in the top of the trim around the cluster and 2 in the op of the cluster itself. there are 2 screws in the bottom of the trim and the cluster as well. if you do not remove the steering wheel it is quite a task removing the cluster but it is possible.

What you need to do is get a scanner and pull the code(s). They will help you to know where you need to investigate next...REMEMBER the code is a clue NOT necessarily the issue. For example, a lean condition can manifest as a missfire, and you can get oxygen sensor limit errors...and these items are registering correctly (meaning replacement does nothing). Pull the codes and go from there.

There are backlight bulbs on the backside of the instr. cluster, they could be burnt out. There is also a small chance of a problem with the headlamp switch, but doubtful.

there are 2 torx srews when you look toward the top of the cluster from iside where it sits. unscrew them and remove the cluster and you should be able to replace the bulbs behind it. if your talking about the matrix display in the cluster you will need a new one. bmw's are notorious for them going bad

I think you can ask this guy for the pdf file for your car, seems like he has everything
http://stores.ebay.com/Fancy-Motorcars?_rdc=1
let me know if you got it

pls try this site:

http://www.2carpros.com


i hope i was able to help you! good luck!