Ignition coil tip broke off, replaced that ran fine for about 10 miles then lost power and cut off. Spark plug wire came off put back on tight started ran for about 7 miles cut off, now won't start. Just turns won't fire. Distributor is month old new wires and plugs, along with cap and rotor.
SOURCE: Ford engine doesn't start after self tune up
Ok here is the meaning of firing order The numbers 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 represent the order of wish cylinder the distributor send a spark as it rotates Starting whit cylinder number 1 The distributor will have to rotor on the number 1 cylinder spark plug and the piston on the number 1 cylinder will be at the top So the fuel and air will be compressed and ignited by the spark plug. The next one will be the cylinder number 5 to do the same as the crankshaft and distributor rotate Next will be number 4 then 2 then 6 ? 7 ? 8. You get the idea "10 Degrees" The degrees represent of spark advance You may think gas explode instantly but it actually take a little time So for the explosion has maximum power when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder the distributor send the spark a little ahead of time 10 degrees of revolution is the recommended by the manufacture but that can be adjust buy losing up the distributor clap bolt and manually turn it. In order to adjust that you need a timing gun Than will flash light on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) and you will see a notch and a series of numbers than represents the timing advance Note If you have not turn the distributor by loosing to button clap bolt I recommend to live it alone and go to you local part store and get the repair manual find the firing order to see wish wire go to wish cylinder Rotate the crack shaft pulley on till the notch is on 0 and see if the distributor rotor is tours cylinder number one. Cars than don?t used distributor do that automatically and constantly adjust the ignition timing by the computer.
SOURCE: engine turns over but will not start
Check the distributor and timing order to make sure it has not jumped at all from a timing malfunction.
SOURCE: my 1984 ford f-150 turns over,but wont start,it
There are a few things you can still check to locate the weak spark issue.
The first is the battery. you should have it tested. If it's showing a low voltage this may or may not be because the battery is bad. You need to consider the age of the battery first. & years is about the life of the average auto battery. If it's newer then that the alternator and or the wires could be the cause.
Inspect the battery cables and alternator wiring.
The cables and terminals should be cleaned and a little Vaseline applied to combat corrosion. All the wiring in the starting circuit should be inspected for loose or damaged connectors and corrosion. Also look for any wear or kinks in the wire covering. A thin spot on a wire can bleed off voltage and interrupt the signal. Get a can of Dielectric grease and spray the inside of all the connectors.
You replace most of the ignition components but how about the ignition control module. Although when the control module goes bad the symptom is usually no spark but it can affect the coil's performance resulting in weak spark also. Before replacing the control module disconnect all the terminals and check and clean any corrosion you find. Apply some Dielectric grease spray and reconnect and check your spark.
More then likely following these steps will take care of the problem.
If after you have checked everything here and the problem persists please respond with all you checked and any results and I'll try and help narrow the trouble down.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: F-150 still cranking but wont turnover. Checked
This vintage of ford electronic ignition systems had a common problem with the ignition modules and the pick-up inside the distributor. I would replace both just because they're overdue and I wouldn't want to risk getting stranded somewhere.
Testimonial: "Replaced both. Started right up. It even idles smoother. Appreciate the help much."
Trouble Code: P0300
Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:
Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system
Base engine mechanical fault that affects two or more cylinders
Erratic or interrupted CKP or CMP Sensor signals
Fuel delivery component fault that affects two or more cylinders (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector)
Trouble Code: P0302
Cylinder 1-10 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:
Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system
Base engine mechanical fault that affects only one cylinder
Fuel delivery component fault that affects only one cylinder (e.g., a dirty fuel injector)
Trouble Code: P0305
Cylinder 1-10 Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:
Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP system
Base engine mechanical fault that affects only one cylinder
Fuel delivery component fault that affects only one cylinder (e.g., a dirty fuel injector)
Trouble Code: P0351
Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:
ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open
Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 primary "driver" circuit open or grounded
Ignition Coil No. 1, 2 or 3 is damaged or it has failed
Trouble Code: P0352
Ignition Coil No. 1-8 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:
ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open
Ignition coil primary "driver" circuit open or grounded
Trouble Code: P0353
Ignition Coil No. 1-8 Primary Circuit
Possible Causes:
ASD relay power circuit to the ignition coil is open
Ignition coil primary "driver" circuit open or grounded
Ignition coil is damaged or it has failed
PCM has failed Ignition coil is damaged or it has failed
PCM has failedPCM has failed
Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in only one cylinder
Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in only one cylinder
Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in two or more cylinders
Vehicle driven with low fuel pressure or while very low on fuel
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