Power windows don't work

The following components are used to control the power windows:
• Driver door module (DDM)
• Passenger front door module (PDM)
• LH rear door module (LRDM)
• RH rear door module (RRDM)
• Driver door switch assembly (DDSA)
• RH front power window switch
• LH rear power window switch
• RH rear power window switch
• LH front power window motor
• RH front power window motor
• LH rear power window motor
• RH rear power window motor
• Class 2 serial data link
• DR MOD PWR C/B 30 Amp circuit breaker
• DRIVER DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- DDSA and DDM logic, DDM internal driver operation.
• PSGR DR MOD 10 Amp fuse -- PDM logic and internal driver operation.
• REAR DR MOD 15 Amp fuse -- LRDM and RRDM logic and internal driver operation

sounds like you have some wiring problem could be wiring harness having a short in it

CHECK FUSES FIRST THEN CHECK FOR POWER AT THE DRIVERS DOOR MASTER SWITCH.IF IT HAS POWER GOING INTO SWITCH THEN BE SURE THE LOCKOUT SWITCH IF OPERATING.IF IT IS THAN THE MASTER POWER WINDOW SWITCH IS BAD

If the lock out switch is not on, I would check for power and ground at the driver's master switch.

Check your fuses for power windows if those sare fine take a test light and see if your switch is getting power to and from it.Could just be a bad switch or motor

Do the windows work with their own door switches ?
If so the problem should be in the master switch. A mechanic would check the master switch for power and ground on each circuit.

This may be related to the BCM (body control module) it can be self tested to see if any faults are present.

The wiring diagrams for your 2003 GMC Sierra power window circuits are copyrighted material and cannot be posted here. However, I can describe the driver's power window circuit to you.

Battery voltage is provided to the driver's window (master) switch via the ORANGE wire at PIn #2 on the switch connector which comes from the 25 Amp Left Window Circuit breaker located in the fuse block on the left side of the dash.

There is a logic module located inside of the master switch which controls the "Auto Down" feature for the driver's window. When the switch is operated in either the "UP" or "DOWN" position, power and ground is supplied to the window lift motor via the BROWN wire (Pin #1, Connector 2) and the DARK BLUE wire (Pin #3, Connector 2) Thease wires will switch polarity dependin on whether the switch is commanding UP or DOWN.

The schematics show that the ground circuit for the driver's window motor is supplied internally by the driver's window switch module. It is most likely grounded inside the door panel itself - the schematics do not specify. To check for ground, you can test continuity to ground on BOTH the BROWN and the BLUE wires by back-probing them with the switch electrical connector plugged in and the window control switch in the NEUTRAL position. They should both have ground.

When the switch is operated, one will remain ground while the other switches to power.

If NONE of the windows work, you will have to scan your Body Control Module (BCM) for fault codes to determine what is causing the problem because your windows are controlled by the BCM.

If the driver's window works, but the others don't, check your window "lockout" switch on the drivers master switch to make sure you don't have the other windows locked out. Simply push the switch and try your windows again. If this does not work to get them working, then you will have to scan your BCM as above.