Heater does not work with the radiator cap on and if its on and you hit the Highway or about 2000+ rpm you heater may work and car temp goes to normal.. Also if the heater is not working for more than 15-20 mins the car temp gets Hot and Hotter. Also there is water sound if the heater is working Or in other words as long as the water sounds in heater core heat is ON and if no sound= no heat..?????? seems like no one had this problem....EVER pls help this problem is really driving me crazy.. Radiator changed pump changed. Please put your expertise advise.. all responses are appreciated..
There is probably an air pocket in the system. if it has a bleeder valve , bleed the system while running or get a burp funnel
Thanks for your comment,, But the system has been bled 10-11 times ,, everytime if the engine is on with radiator cap off and funnel ON .. to purge the air out... after 10 -15 min ,, everything seems to be and heater starts working.. as you close the radiator cap back and close it,,, 5-10 min after again no heat and car temp sometimes shoot up... unless car hit the highway...where heater makes sound and heater works and temp goes to normal..???? isnt weired ????
possibly a week water pump not circulating properly
sorry i just read that u replaced the pump, my next thought is to check the valve on the hose going to your heater core. it may be stuck, follow the hoses from the fire wall you should find it
Well your time and input is truly appreciated,, this is the first time , i am here about valve and firwall.. can you please guide me where exactly to look for,, you meant heater core inlet or engine outlet to heater core inlet. Also just to give you an update,,why i would prefer to find out myself the problem and not going to pro mechanic after spending 100s of $.. Today i went to pepboys and two mechanic had different views on the same problem. One says keep changing thermostat and other is say sure shot its headgasket failure.. this type of experiment i want to avoid and would like to share experience and expertise from others like you...I would appreciate if you help me locate this valve may be that is the issue..its nissan sentra 2001 1.8L..hope this where the problem exist..
i just re read your first complaint and the heater core may be clogged. disconnect both hoses going to fire wall and back flush it with a garden hose. back n forth between hoses. i think the gargling noise is water squeezing past a blockage. give that a shot
thats what i thought in the begining until i did the procedure as you have mentioned. I ran the water both way to the heater core , nothing was clogged and water ran smoothly ...what else you might think of...or anybody PLEASE...
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SOURCE: 2000 Xterra intermentantly overheats
sounds more like the thermostat may be failing. generally a water pump starts leaking out of the "weep" hole in the casting before it quits. just look at the front of the water pump for a greenish streak or an obvious leak.
if you also suspect you heater core may be getting plugged now would be a good time to back flush it to get rid of some of the gunk.
SOURCE: Nissan Altima running hot
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
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Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
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MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE
KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
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Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be
partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a
hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
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A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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