1998 olds 88 dash heater vacuum

Hyundai Matrix - fuse box - engine compartment (gasoline) DescriptionAmpere rating [A]Protected components ALT120Generator B+40(A/CON, RR HTD, STOP, D/LOCK, HAZARD) Fuse ECU30Generator, Engine control relay, ECM RAD20Radiator fan relay IGN40Start relay, Ignition switch BLR40Blower relay P/WIN30Power window relay COND20Condenser fan relay #1 ABS30ABS control module, ABS bleeding connector ABS30ABS control module, ABS bleeding connector F/PUMP10Fuel pump relay INJ15Injector, lgnition coil SNSR10MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, CP sensor, Knock sensor, Throttle position sensor ROOM LP10Audio, Room lamp, Overhead console lamp, lnstrument cluster DRL15DRL control module HORN10Horn relay A/CON10A/C relay FR FOG15Front fog lamp relay ECU10ECM, TCM LP20Tail lamp relay TAIL LH10Left rear combi lamp, Left position lamp, Left License lamp TAIL RH10Right rear combi lamp, Right position lamp, Right License lamp H/LP LH15Left head lamp H/LP RH15Right head lamp, (H/LP IND) Fuse Engine compartment (diesel) Hyundai Matrix - wiring diagram - fuse box diagram - engine compartment (diesel) DescriptionAmpere rating [A]Protected components FUSEALT100Generator B+40(A/CON, RR HTD, STOP, D/LOCK, HAZARD) Fuse, Deicer ECU30Generator, Engine control relay, ECM RAD20Radiator fan relay IGN40Start relay, Ignition switch BLR40Blower relay P/WIN30Power window relay COND20Condenser fan relay #1 ABS30ABS control module, ABS bleeding connector ABS30ABS control module, ABS bleeding connector F/PUMP10Fuel pump relay ECU30ECM No.5 (Batt+) ECU10ECM No.4 (Batt+), Stop lamp switch, PTC heater relay #1 SNSR10Glow plug relay, Assistor heater relay 1/2, Stop lamp switch, TDC sensor, EGR act, Throttle plate act, VGT vacuum ROOM LP10Audio, Room lamp, Overhead console lamp, lnstrument cluster, ETACS, Luggage lamp DRL15DRL control module HORN10Horn relay A/CON10A/C relay FR FOG15Front fog lamp relay ECU10ECM, TCM LP20Tail lamp relay TAIL LH10Left rear combi lamp, Left position lamp, Left License lamp TAIL RH10Right rear combi lamp, Right position lamp, Right License lamp H/LP LH15Left head lamp H/LP RH15Right head lamp, (H/LP IND) Fuse FUSIBLE LINKPTC HTR 140PTC heater relay #1 GLOW80GLOW relay PTC HTR 240PTC heater relay #2 FFHS30FFHS relay PTC HTR 340PTC heater relay #3 Inner Panel Hyundai Matrix - fuse box - inner panel DescriptionAmpere rating [A]Protected components H/LP IND10Head lamp indicator HTD IND10Defogger relay, Left(Right) outside mirror motor, Rear window motor A/CON10A/C Switch RR HTD30Defogger relay STOP10Stop lamp switch, Power window relay D/LOCK15Door lock(unlock) relay, ETACM, Sunroof relay HAZARD10Burglar alarm relay, Hazard relay AUDIO10Audio C/LIGHT15Cigarette lighter A/B10SRS control module A/B IND10SRS IND. T/SIG10Hazard switch, Seat belt timer, Instrument cluster, ABS control module, Pre-excitation resistor, Washer motor ECU15ECM, Vehicle speed sensor, TCM, Ignition coil ETACS10ETACM, A/T Shift lever RR WPR10Rear wiper motor, Rear wiper relay START10Start relay FRT WPR20Wiper relay, Washer motor, Wiper & Defogger timer S/HTD15Left (Right) front seat warmer switch P/OUTLET25Front (Rear) power outlet IG210ETACM, Power window relay, Defogger relay, Sunroof relay Head lamp relay, Blower relay O/S MRR10Outside mirror switch, Rear fog lamp relay

you have lost vacuum somewhere... or your HVAC control head went bad...

This system has multiple power, ground and computer controls. Needs to be diagnosed at an electrical shop.

The fuse panel is located underneath the dash, to the left of the steering column, next to the emergency brake pedal. You need to remove the under-dash insulation to access some parts of the fuse panel.


If it doesn't have a diagram inside the box, here's one I found online: http://www.coolcats.net/tech/reference/images/fusepanel.jpg


1 15A Lt. Blue Stop Lamps, Hazard Warning Lamps, Speed Control, Cornering Lamp Relays 2 6A - CB - Windshield Wiper/Washer Pump 3

Spare - Not Used 4 15A Lt. Blue Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Side Marker Lamps, Instrument Cluster Illumination, License Lamps, A/C and Heater Illumination, Radio Illumination, Digital Clock Illumination, Autolamp Relay 5 15A Lt. Blue Turn Signal Lamps, Electronic Day/Night Mirror, Lighted Vanity Mirrors *, Backup Lamps, Illuminated Entry, Keyless Entry, Cornering Lamps 6 20A Yellow Rear Defrost Timer, Chime, Back-Up Lamps, Cornering Lamps, Rear Reading Lamps, Trunklid Release, Digital Clock Display, Illuminated Entry, Anti-Theft Module, Turbo Buzzer 7 15A Lt. Blue Fog Lamps (Turbo Only) 8 15A Lt. Blue Courtesy Lamps, Key Warning Buzzer, Illuminated Entry Module, Glove Box Lamp, Door Lock Relays, Radio Memory, Cluster Memory, Outside Mirrors, Tripminder Module, Analog Clock, Anti-Theft Relay 9 30A Lt. Green A/C Heater Blower Motor 10 20A - CB - Horn, Cigar Lighter, Fuel Filler Door, Flash-to-Pass, Speed Control 11 20A Yellow Radio, Tape Player, Premium Sound Amp, Power Antenna, Graphic Equalizer 12 20A - CB - Power Seats, Power Locks, Keyless Entry 13 5A Tan Instrument Cluster Illumination, Radio, Climate Control 14 20A - CB - Power Windows, Power Moonroof 15 10A Red Taillamps, Rear Side Markers, License Lamps, Electoluminescent Coach Lamps 16 4A Yellow Electronic ATC 17 15A Lt. Blue Electronic Cluster, Tripminder Display, Fuel Gauge (non-electronic cluster), A/C Clutch, Speed Control Module, Graphic Warning Display Module, Electronic Blower Speed Controller 18 10A Red Warning Indicator Lamps, Autolamp System, Throttle Position Sensor, Low Fuel Module, Dual Timer Chime, Tachometer, Washer Fluid Level Indicator

It might not be a fuse that goes to that it might be a relay thats under your hood in the fuse box. Just a idea for you to try. Hope this works out for you.

You don't say whether the fan starts and shuts off with the bumps, or the heat goes cold but the fan stays on. If it's the fan shutting off and coming back, you most likely have an intermittent connection to the blower motor somewhere at the fuse box, the fan speed control switch or the fan motor, or a loose ground connection at the fan motor. The fan motor is visible under the right side speaker grille on the dash. Make sure you re-connect the short black corrugated hose to the grill vent or you won't have defrosting on that side!

The air distribution rotary switch controls where the air goes. The fan speed switch controls exactly that: fan speed. the temp rotary switch controls the coolant temp into the heater core. You need to clarify what you mean by "Also, the dash controls for the vents won't allow me to turn up the power"

You might also have one or more of the following issues:

1. is you vacuum tank properly connected and are there no leaks in the vacuum piping? The tank is in the driver side rear wheel well below the trunk deck on a convertible, and in the passenger side front fender area on the other cars. It's a white bottle with one or two hoses connected to it. If not properly on, your vacuum operated heater flaps won't move. Does the air distribution knob make sucking or hissing noises when you set it to different positions? If not, check the tank connections, look for vacuum line leaks, then suspect the vacuum valve behind the distribution knob.
2. if the air distribution rotary switch makes noises when you change its setting, but nothing happens, then suspect the vacuum solenoids that open and close the heater flaps - could be a loose vacuum line or a defective vacuum solenoid
   
3. the shaft connecting the temp control knob to the heater valve behind it may not be properly in place. This can be inspected, and adjusted if necessary, from the left side speaker/vent cutout on top of the dash. Make sure you re-connect the black flex hose to the air vent tube, or you'll get no defrosting afterwards!
4. remember, the centre vents always blow cold air; a brilliant idea from Saab so the driver (and passenger) can get fresh air in the face and stay awake while the rest of the driver, passenger and car is toasty!

Have you checked the vacuum line with a gauge? If so, how many pascal units does the vacuum line read? Vacuum gauges are around $5. Furthermore, I believe the design is sealed vacuum only system. The solenoid could be bad, but to my knowledge it is not an electrical component. A split in one of the vacuum lines could be cause of your problem. You would have to trace the all the vacuum lines back to the source to find the problem. You would need that gauge to detect a leak in the system. Could also replace all the vacuum lines on principle since the vehicle is going on two decades.

You have lost engine vacuum to the AC vacuum motors, this is either a pinched vacuum line from the engine vacuum storage canister or the canister is damaged or the control switch in the dash is leaking vacuum.

The Oldsmobile and other makes with electronic control board's are plagued with problems. Call your local auto recyclers and get a replacement switch. As far as changing the switch once out of the dash it is just a matter of disconnecting it and hooking up the new one, fairly straight forward . You may need a torques screwdriver to remove it from the dash. Mike

Check your heater core.

Some heater/defrost controls are mechanically controled and some are vacuum actuated. Look under the passenger side dash and see if you can locate the means by which the flapper is controlled. Normally the flapper just redirects the heated air from the rotating fan to eith go out the vents or up to the vents in the defrost. Most mechanic units (attached by cables from the dash control unit) do not break or wear out. The vacuum operated ones sometimes the small vacuum hoses that attach to a solenoid come off or get brittle and loose their seal against the plastic tips. If you can work the dash controls while you look under the dash and try to see how and why the flapper is not moving, then maybe you can ascertain how the flapper is actuated. Last resort os to try to remove the in dash control unit. It will either have the mechanical cables attached or vacuum lines attached to it so be careful when removing. Once you control the flapper in the air box, then you norally can redirect the air to where it needs to be. Look for a cracked vacuum line by the master cylinder. There are several that interconnect which feed through the firewall and into the dash that supply all of the dash vacuum.