96 Camry 2.2 L has no spark while cranking but timing light indicates spark when key is released

not S10
dead hv coil means input to coil is dead.
on this car, 1996 we look at the distributor wiring ,et al. to know what's up with that.
and fuses tops the list all EFI AND spark fuses. and ecu.(VCM)
the VSM needs 5 good fuses !!! #4,5,9,10,12
then learn to scan the VCM on any 96 or newer USA car it has
the new the OBD2 scan port (16pin) just like now.
see DTC errors cranked, p03xx errors are all that.
CMP error , CKP errors end spark for sure.
crank sensor or cam senors, 3 wire HALL sensors and there and the best kind is HALL.
the VCM (ecu/pcm) fires the spark control modlen and it the HV coil.
if CMP and CKP are not dead.
crank for 10second (release not off) and release. if either 2 sensor fail now the
scan tool tells you so.. DTC p03xx code errors.
cam must spin, and not be timed by kids.(or hold my beer)

• bad fuses (x5)
• bad cmp/ckkp (dead cam timed all wrong)
• bad spark control module
• bad HV coil
• bad wires to all this. page. of listed things.
• bad VCM (if obd2 fails consider this, if no COMMS)
• rusty or loose connectors

is CEL/MIL/SES lamp in cluster dead it must glow keyon.
or lamp dead, vcm dead or fuse to ecu x5 dead.

hint1,use modern scan too, not one from 1996 era
many the only did 1 or 3 uSA cars then, (lack of 3 ports is why)
all; modern tools work here, 2005 year up

Don:
1.6L or 1.8liter engine? Toy 4A or 7A engine?
all 4 cylinder dead. and coil? no spark?
did you hook up all sensors. as the 96 had,(usa car has more)
usa car is OBD2 and runs crank and cam sensors to do misfire detection.(fed law)
any scan tool will tell you why,!
here posted 100 times in ORDER

1. fuses all good, 12vdc both sides, key on, or its bad.
2. keyon
3. CEL lamp in dash turns on, if not ,see #1
4. plug in scan tool, get comms.? good, pcm talks !
5. crank for 5 seconds. (least) release key, not off.
6. SEE Those DTC errors, for spark , cmp,ckp, (P03xx errors)
7. bingo.? RPM dead cranking? scan tools can see RPM.
8. sure! my bet by now you found it.

no spark from coil directly?
is the cam turning, is the dizzy rotor spinning. ????

check all fuses first. Ig-coil, FI and dome.
then using diagnostic jumper wire or fuse, (as approp)
crank engine look for code 41 o 42.!!!

USA cars , answers only
our cars are all EFI that year.
no engine swaps to Suzuki G16A/B sidekick or tracker engines.!
1: engine cranks
2: no spark
3: The ECu makes spark
the CMP sensor in the DIzzy , (never fails if rotor turns, does rotor turn, if not cam belt igored and now snapped.)
the cam turns. the CMP fires. the ECU takes this CMP signal
and fires the ignitor next to coil and the coil charges, and release and BAM spark.

that is it.
the ECU will tell you when the CMP dies or the Ignitor fails
why not ask it.
1: key on
2: diagnostic jumper in place (flashes 12s for ok)
3: crank engine,for 5sec, not 1 ,not 2.
3: release key not off.
4: see code 41, or 42, BINGO !@!!!!

wow no year stated or engine option,,,,, a hard row to hoe.......
the pump dont create spark but all cars cut fuel if there is no spark.
for , fire safety. fix spark first. ignore all other symptoms.
Cranks but does not spark is the #1 symptom.
2nd is no spark, i guess that means at all spark plugs and not one?
what engine do you have,, Esteems dont come one just 1 engine.
so discover that engine, code, like G16 or J18?
The G16 has distributor, the J18 has COP coils x4
apples and oranges different.

So i will answer non specifically.
When you crank, does the tachometer needle move about 300 rpm?
with the scan tool do you see DTC errors as you crank for 5 seconds> release key and look? with key still on>?
P0340s 355s? etc>?
when cranking does the scan tool show RPM? moving up scale?
if car is 96 or newer year, the car has 2 devices that makes spark
one is CMP and the other is CKP. on the G16 engines, it
only needs CMP to make spark ( then ignitor, then coil, the distributor.) did you change you G16 timing belt at 60k miles>?
if not it may not generate spark due to the dizzy timing is way off now.
the J18 engine has no Dizzy (distributor) it has COP.
aka: DIS Distributorless ignition System
The car has CMP on the back side of the left cam.
It can go dead, but the ECU will tell you this fact of you use
as scan tool in the proper way,
the proper way is to crank for 5 seconds, and release key
and look for stored codes. do not turn key off,
until you scan for DTCs live, in memory or pending.
The J18 has 4 COPs check each for spark, not just one.
you can swap the bad ones around , and see if its bad.
post engine size and year, and you'd be amazed at better posts.

Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil? red wire with lite green tracer, use a test lite to check voltage, goes hot with key on, circuit is fuse protected.

somethings gettn hot in the electrical--circuits wear in old cars--but dont go replacn parts til u kno the answer--scan car plus do a data stream to find it

Sounds like it could be the ignition module. How you check for this problem depends on what type of system that you have. Does the engine have a distributor? If it does, then disconnect the coil wire if it has one and install a spark tester which is available at most part stores. If it does not have a coil wire then find the tach terminal located on the distributor and connect a test light between that terminal and ground. The spark tester should spark while cranking and the test light should blink while cranking. If they don't, then replace the ignition module. The spark tester can also be used on one of the spark plug wires for distributorless ignition systems.

cam position sensor?

Sounds like its a distributor. To test if its sparking at all take the plug wire and hold a screw driver and see if it arcs to the screw driver when you crank it. but heres the best way to diagnose it on your vehicle follow the following steps and let me know from there what happens.

Steps
1 Remove the spark plug wires one at a time and insert a small screw driver into the wire.(SEE WARNINGS) Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. Hold the wire so that the screw driver is 1/8” away from the engine. Have someone crank the engine and watch for a good white spark. If you have a good spark on all wires look for a problem with timing or something else. 2 Remove the distributor cap. Have someone crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed and observe if it is turning? That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one. If the distributor is not turning then likely you have a broken timing belt or chain. 3 Turn the ignition key on but don't crank the engine. Locate the positive or power wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. If this has power, then the wiring from the ignition switch is OK. 4 Locate the negative or ground wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. This sounds strange however, one end on a good battery ground and the other on the negative wire attached to the engine coil. The test light will light up indicating power on the negative side of the coil with the key on and engine off. 5 Have someone crank the engine while watching the test light. If you observe the test light flickering when cranking the engine and you have no spark, either the coil wire is faulty of the coil is dead. Test these using an Ohm meter.# If no flickering or pulsating was observed then check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens. This is the negative wire back to it's source, the ignition module. 6 Check the pulse generator in the distributor if it has a distributor cap. Some newer cars don’t have one,and if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. 7 With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. If this is observed then the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If no A/C signal is observed then you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor. 8 Know that if this part of the primary ignition tests OK then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. If wiring tests are OK. Suspect the ECM or computer as a last resort. edit
Warnings
Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. be careful when checking the leads for sparks with a screwdriver doing it this way can cause very expensive damage on newer engins best use a spare spark plug or a proper tester for this job
Thanks, Midwest-tek

Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)

If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........