Sudenly stopped ulocking doors everything else works
SOURCE: 1989 subaru legacy 2wD 2.0 vz
Welllllllllll how do I say this without incriminating myself too much, after furiously mad panic stations on the sunday, it was decided that first thing monday it would be towed to the electricians! as my husband had concluded it was electrical this came after new battery fuses etc.. had been checked and many an hour spent under the bonnet.As we have a kill switch, which I had tried an still did not go also I reminded my husband of this and he screamed at me its not the bloody kill switch @#!*!!? ok, have a GREAT DAY! So come monday morning after getting up early to drop my husband off at work dressed only in my dressing gown jammies and socks and slippers I duly dropped him off and used our pajero for the day which I ended up having to put 10 dollars in. That night he returned home with the subaru and a receipt for work done I ( I had visions of hundreds of dollars worth) but noooooo $54.00 great ah! Cos it was the kill switch !!!!.
We will never speak of this again!!!!! It is often the simple things in life that we overlook? TeeHeeee.
Linda
SOURCE: !993 subaru legacy doors dont unlock
If it takes that much force to manually open the doors, and it's on the doors that are less used, then I'd bet it's a set of door locks and actuators in need of lubrication.
Electric door lock actuators can easily be stopped or slowed down by resistance in the mechanism. This can be caused by corrosion, water getting into the door, and just old age and lack of use. I'd take the door panels off and take a peek.
On the Legacy the panels pop off fairly easily. You'll need to pry them off carefully with a flat screwdriver. You'll feel where the fasteners are, where the panels are resisting coming off, and prise the panel gently and firmly at these points and they'll pop out. Once out you'll see the lock mechanism.
Moving it by hand will tell if it's corroded or bound up. Apply some white litium grease to the mechanism, making sure to squirt/work it in, and then work the door handle/mechanism to get the lube into the linkage and actuators. Check the electrical contacts for corrosion while there and spray with WD-40 to protect them. This should free up the door mechanism and the actuators should then be able to do their job.
If after the above steps the electric actuators still don't work, use a voltmeter or circuit tester to check for 12V at the actuator when the door button is pressed. If you don't see any power, recheck that fuse and then the wiring back to the door harness. It's unlikely that this is the cause as its unlikely that you'd get only 3 out of 4 bad, but you never know in these old cars.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Drivers side door is stuck in the lock position
door handle probably broken ,usually the part of the handle that houses the rod that moves latch breaks,see if the outside handlehas less resistance than others when lifting it this is a pretty good indicator
SOURCE: I have a 1999 Subaru Impreza- Remote locking
First, it may seem obvious, but check the fuses associated with the remote unlock. Next, go to Autozone or somewhere like that where they have a remote tester. That will tell if the remote is functional. If the remote works and the fuses are good, see if you can find out how to program remotes to it. It may have forgotten the code for that remote.
Testimonial: "Thanks for the tips, i'll do some investigation.. I'm amazed at the quick reponse! "
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