At random, approx. between 40 and 70 mph, slight road bump, uneven road surface, the truck starts to shake violently until slowed to approx. 40mph. This has happened apporx. 6 times. Went to dealer and could not duplicate. Its starting to happen more often. It started approx. at 38,000 miles, the first time it happened it jerked to the left possibly into no coming traffic.I fought to gain control, slowed and pulled off raod, got out and looked at all 4 wheels and tires and under front end. Started driving again with no issues. I do feel a slight quiver at random and try isolate from where it might be coming from with no results. I have had the tires rotated and preventive maintenance is performed at jordan ford, san antonio,tx. They stated : it could be the transmissiom, drive shaft, tires wheels out of balance, rear end, front drive axles, etc,ect. It would take them a week pending on time availablibility to put a technician on it. Frustation factor. Could this be a serious issues with 2011 f250 4x4s. My truck is street driven with ford manufacture installed equipment. Yes, Of course, the factory warranty has expired. Is this issue, equipment or component failure that has not been identified during engineering and research and development at the time of assembly. Could this be an isolated issue or is this habitual with Ford F250s 4x4s. Working together saves lives and improves products. My families saftety and mine is of importance.
You have some sort of wear issue or a crack in the frame rail or a rivet that is loose in the front end, any part up there can cause this, have it thoroughly inspected by a good front end specialist.
SOURCE: Rear Axle Bearing
i know for a fact that the bearing comes with the hub., and if the old bearing is badly damage you may need to heat it to remove it from the axel...so this may be a rather big job if your not equipt
with torch or other ...
SOURCE: Whole truck will shake intermittently at various speeds
I bought a 2006 F350 crew cab 4x4 and had the exact problems explained here. I have 20 inch wheels and had BF Goodrich TA Radials.( From the dealership ) It shaked when hitting bumps especially going around corners... I switched to 35" Toyos.. no change. I had the truck in several times in which they changed the track bar and aligned and ballance ...etc.. ugh. What i found out is that the dealer installed a 2" leveling kit. this makes it sit straight and looks nice with the 20" rims. The leveling kit is basically a cup that sits on top of the front coil springs. This 2" difference messes up the geometry of the front end and gives you the "Death Shake" If you have this and you like the way your truck sits, you would be better off buying a small lift for the truck which retains the stock position of all the front end. I put a 6" lift on my truck and have run it through two sets of tires without ANY instances of the shake once the lift was installed. I have even ran severly cupped tires in front with NO shake.. I currently have 74K.
SOURCE: ford super duty vibration/shake
The carrier bearing should not move at all. It is mounted in rubber to give a little. But, it should not move freely. If this is the case then something has gone bad. The carrier bearing would cause this vibration as it spins if it is loose.
SOURCE: Ford focus turbo diesel 1.8 cuts out whilst
there is a plug connector on the top of the engine (you should be able to see it with the engine cover still on) check the wires going to the plug as they are known to brake
please let me know if this helps
cheers
big mike :)
SOURCE: Terrible vibration - 2004 Ford F-150 5.4L
It sounds like when ford rebuilt your rearend they didn't set the gear lash correctly. What is happening is that when your truck cools down the gears are contracting and they are not aligning properly because they did not set the lash right when they installed your ring and pinion gear. When the gears heat up they may be freeing up. Ultimately this will end up chewing your new rear end to pieces. It is only a matter of time. It could also be the pinion bearing, if the tech put your pinion bearing on with an impact wrench it will fail in a short time. It needs to be put on by hand with a torque wrench. Some ideas to look into, it may not be whats going on, but it sure sounds like it.
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