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Cathy Posted on Feb 26, 2017

Water stuck in blower housing leaking to floor when driving 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

I removed wiper arms and the cowl on my 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan. Removed debris from catch screen on bottom side of cowl. Unclogged drain tubes with long hanger wire and blasted hose water through tubes. I also poked the hanger wire in a hole at the corners where the bottom of the windshield, the hood, and the pillar all meet. There was resistance at first, then the wire poked through, so possibly that was clogged. Water is dripping into van on front passenger floor. I pulled back the carpet and insulation from floor and from the wall leading up under the dash. Now I can clearly see when I drive water running down the rubber like padding that was under the carpet and insulation. It appears to be coming from what may be called the blower housing. A black plastic box that is back behind the glove box that is held by screws from the underside. Big drips form on the screws when van is sitting after driving. I can also feel a bit a water at the seam where the bottom of box meets the upper portion after it is screwed together. I think I may have solved my clogged drain problem, but possibly this leak is just water that is still left behind from when it was all clogged up in the cowl and drain tubes and this water is trapped in the blower box, or called heater box? It only seems to come out when I am driving. So it will appear to be completely dry. But if I take the van out for a drive, water comes leaking out. I have tried quick turns and sudden stops to try to get the rest of the water to come out. But water is still trapped in there. The only way to truly know if I have solved the leak is to get this water out, and dry the box. Then see what happens after the next rain. Water was getting in from the rain while the van was parked in the driveway. Clear water. Not stinky or dark. Carpet has been dried out by putting a small household van on the front floor, setting it on high, and leaving it on all day and doing that for a couple of days. The insulation padding under the carpet was really soaked like a wet sponge even when I thought the carpet was dry. So don't let a dry carpet fool you. It you have really wet carpet, you NEED to pull it up to dry the padding underneath or it will mildew and mold. And smell. I also leave my vent windows and front windows cracked open at night and all day long if I know it is not going to rain. I am not mechanical, but can't afford a mechanic to take hours and hours like I have to possibly not succeed. I read how when you remove the cowl, you will see the metal lip under the windshield and that water is supposed to fall off the lip into the trough and down the drains. But that some water rolls back and travels on the underside of this lip and then enters the air intake vents. (There are like 3 or 4 rectangle holes with rounded corners on the back wall) It is reported that if water enters these air intake holes then it will run down the firewall and enter the van's interior. I did what others have done and got drywall corner bead molding. (strip of aluminum in a right angle) I siliconed it to the underside of the metal lip that is under the windshield. That way when water falls off this lip, if any tries to roll back under the lip it will meet the molding and run straight down the molding and fall off into the trough where it is supposed to go. I did make cut outs for where the wiper assembly moves back under that lip. If anyone can tell me how to get the water out of the plastic housing behind the glove box I would greatly appreciate it. I am a 57 year old mom and wife and really need to have a dry van! I love my '98! Never liked the new boxy styles. Much appreciation in advance, anyone?

3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 335 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 23, 2008

SOURCE: passenger side leak under dash board

Ok take off the windshield wiper arms, then remove the plastic piece under the wipers below the windshield, there is a tray under there and some drain holes, you may have to remove some more plastic pieces once you remove the one below the windshield (some models are slightly different) clear out all the tree leaves and pine needles and such from the tray there are drain holes in the enter, and on each end push a long flexable rod down carefully or compressed air really works the best this is you problem it needs to be done every few years or more often if you park under trees.
If this information is helpful please give me a fixya! Rating , Thank you, Randy
[email protected]

www.aceautomotive1.com

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 07, 2010

SOURCE: 2000 toyota tundra water leak passenger side under dash

i know its a year later, but i went through this today. found out the problem is simple to fix. you have the black engine cowel just below the windshield. when you take the wipers off, and the screws out and lift that piece out you will see the white grommets that the screws screw into. they have a gasket that is under them that rots out. the 2 first passenger ones sit right above the fresh air intake for the a/c. take them out, clean it and use some rtv silicone to seal them up. put it all back together and let sure for a day before you test it.

mclaen

  • 486 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 12, 2010

SOURCE: passenger floor gets sopping wet during rain or hosing

You may have a windshield that is leaking due to a small gap in the adhesive that glues the glass to the body. The water will trickle in behind the dash and it can be very difficult if not impossible to pipoint the excact source of the leak. If you can't find it yourself you may need to go to a windshield replacement facility and see if they can help you out. If it turns out that the windshield is leaking you may have to replace it as sometimes they can't be removed without being damaged due to how they are glued in place. Hope this helps out a bit!

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remove the wiper tub.

You'll need to remove,

the wiper arms
the plastic cowl cover
5 or 6 10mm nuts
4 or 5 13mm bolts
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And pop the whole assembly out. There will be a lot of room once it is out.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

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Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
REMOVAL
The front wiper motor comes as a unit with a wiper pivot on each end and mounts to a shaft that holds these two inner pivots.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the wiper arms.
3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector located near the air cleaner housing.
4. Lift the cowl grille and disconnect the washer hose grommet from the hole in the wiper module. Pull the washer hose and the grommet
completely through the wiper module tub hole.
5. Remove the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
6. Remove the four brace nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence.
7. Remove the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner brace holding the tub to the bulkhead.
8. Remove all four inner support brace mounting nuts and pull the inner braces just free of the mounting studs.
NOTE: The wiper tub will drop down slightly.
9. Disconnect the driver and passenger side wiper link ends at the inner pivots.
10. Remove the two left wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
11. Remove the two right wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
12. Partially lift out the wiper motor assembly out of the wiper tub.
13. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
14. Remove the wiper motor assembly the rest of the way from the wiper tub and remove from vehicle.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Installation
INSTALLATION
1. Install front wiper motor assembly onto wiper tub.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the front wiper motor assembly.
3. Install the four mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
4. Push the four inner support braces onto the studs and install the four nuts. Tighten the nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
5. Install the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner braces that hold the wiper tub to the bulkhead. Tighten the bolts to 17 Nm (150 in.lbs.).
6. Install the four nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence line. Tighten nuts to 7 Nm (65 in.lbs.).
7. Apply grease to drive link bushings.
NOTE: Make sure to use Mopar(R) approved grease.
8. Attach the driver and passenger side outer wiper linkage to the inner pivots on the front motor assembly and firmly snap into place.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force to engage link bushing or damage can occur to the drive link bushing.
9. Position the cowl grille in place.
10. Install the washer hose and grommet into the wiper tub.
NOTE: Be sure to properly seat the washer hose grommet into the bottom of the wiper tub.
11. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector located by the air cleaner housing.
12. Install the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
13. Connect the battery negative cable.
14. Verify that the wiper motor is in the Park position by cycling the wipers system. When done, remove keys from ignition.
15. Install the wiper arms.
16. Align the wiper arms and tighten nuts to 35 Nm (25 ft.lbs.).
17. Install the wiper arm nut caps.

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According to the Haynes repair manual Chapter 12:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
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3. Remove the cowl cover (from chapter 11)
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3e. Disconnect the washer hose from the right washer nozzle. Close the hood but do not latch it. Lift the cowl cover toward the windshield and off the vehicle.
3f. Installation is the reverse of removal
4.Open the hood. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
5. Disconnect the windshield washer hose from the coupling inside the unit. Disconnect the drain tubes from the bottom of the wiper unit.
6. Remove the wiper unit mounting bolts. (Picture appears to be three (possibly allen head) bolts)
7. Remove wiper unit.
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Wiper motor does not work on my 1994 dodge intrepid?

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(I made images larger at the end of instructions)

See Figures 1, 2 and 3
0900c1528006ad4a.jpgFig. 1: Unbolt the wiper motor from the housing 0900c1528006ad4b.jpgFig. 2: A little maneuvering may be required to pull the motor out 0900c1528006ad4c.jpgFig. 3: Exploded view of the wiper motor and associated components that make up the wiper system
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies, then disconnect the in-line hose connections. Do not discard the in-line connectors.
  3. Remove the rear hood seal with the cowl top plastic screen. Disconnect the washer hose in-line connectors.
  4. Disconnect the motor wiring harness at the back side of the housing.
  5. Remove the four wiper housing module mounting screws, then remove the housing.
  6. Remove the nut and disconnect the wiper drive linkage from the motor crank.
  7. Remove the three motor mounting screws. Lift the motor and mounting plate out of the housing.
  8. Disconnect the motor harness grommet from the housing.
To install:
  1. Assemblethe linkage to the motor. Make sure that the crank fits over the D sloton the motor shaft. Tighten the mounting nut to 90-106 inch lbs. (11-14Nm). Be sure the motor is still in the park position before assemblingto the linkage; if it is not, temporarily connect the motor to thewiring and operate the switch to park the motor before assembling thelinkage.
  2. Position the wiper motor and install the retaining nuts until snug.
  3. Attach the linkage drive crank to the motor crank arm.
  4. Plug the wiper motor wiring back together.
  5. Install the wiper motor cover.
  6. Install the wiper arms and plastic cowl removed previously.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable and check the wiper motor for proper operation.

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Copyright © 2002 Delmar, All Rights Reserved.
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Copyright © 2002 Delmar, All Rights Reserved. 0900c1528006ad4c.gif
Copyright © 2002 Delmar, All Rights Reserved.
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