Wheel hop is generally associated with racemobiles, but the same general rules apply here too. Make sure that ALL bushings on springs, control arms, stabilizer bars etc are in good condition. Make sure that shocks are good as well. If you have a lift kit, or worn springs (sagging), check that correct pinion angle has not been compromised (I generally set angle at 2 to 4 degrees down, at rest. This prevents excessive "up" position during loading which can cause binding of rear "u" joint.. On vehicles which are consistently subjected to heavy initial power transfer loading, I sometimes also add an adjustable pinion bumper between the frame and differential to mitigate "wrap-up". Other than that, just stop spinning it so hard when in snow...it's bad for the driveline, and usually innefective in negotiating poor conditions.
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ask diff reconditioners shop or off road shop if a limited slip diff center is available ( welding diff centers is not an option as it makes the car illegal on the road and dangerous to handle on a good road surface )
you need tall gears that do not loose traction because of the torque advantage from low ratios as in the switch on the dash. so don't use it in tow mode
as for tires there are special snow tires available with spikes in the tread , special tread patterns
( ask a tyre shop for what would be best)
extra weight over the rear end would help with traction
I would think that wide tires would tend to "aqua plane" as they rode up over the snow but talk with a tyre shop again on that
there may be a diff locker available from an off road shop
Consider changing the entire rear end to get the diff operation that would best suit you
u need to raise the wheels off the ground an disconnect the drive shaft an spin the wheels by hand u may have a bad posi unit. the stress of breaking the shaft may have caused this
Most vehicles with four wheel drive and positraction in the rear will have an "open" style differential up front. (unless modified for off road only use). An open diff will only spin the wheel with the least traction. The only way the other wheel would have spun is if that happened. Reason front posi units aren't used on the street is that they make steering difficult.
Without seeing the car, I'd say you have a problem with the recently replaced/rebuilt posi and I'd take it back...unless you did it yourself, then it's back in we go.
ummm if you have the 1999 jeep grand cherokee (limited) Quadratic (like i have) that means the jeep is 4WD all time!!! it could be a problem with your tires be bald!!! I put snow tires on my Quadratic 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it works fine on snow and ice and the reason is because its never out of 4WD because its all time 4WD
If you have a selec-track NP229 transfer case, likely the viscuous coupler if failing that would account for the shaking at speed and no motion on hill at 2k rpms. The single wheel spinning at the rear may be that you don't have a posi differential but an open rear, or, the clutches are stuck. (can often be released by changing lube, adding posi additive and then making tight circles in both directions or tight figure 8"s) If engine is always idling at 2K you may have a vacuum leak somewhere. That can cause other problems with any vacuum operated controls elsewhere in the car.
when you take the rear cover off of the differential housing you will see a whole bunch of small clutches between the spider gears and the ring gear housing, you will see that the axles go right through them. If it is not a limited slip it will not have these clutches
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