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Re: on 1999 mercury mountaineer which cylinder gets metal...
Is that the only wire with a metal boot? IDK, maybe it's an indicator for number one cylinder. I can't imagine any reason to put a metal boot rather than a rubber boot.
you may have a bad coil---take a pair of rubber handle plyers & remove the spark plug wires 1 at a time---when you pull off a plug wire you should notic the truck runs even worse---the one you pull off & it doesnt change the way it runs--that is the cylinder that has the problem
The metal sleeve on the end of the cable,you turn it sideways and push it thru the hole in the wheel. If it is stuck to the wheel just pick up on the wheel then tap the sleeve with a hammer.
IIRC these are a coil over design. meaning the coil is over the plug. the coil should have one 8mm bolt holding it on the lower intake manifold. remove the coild to get to the spark plugs. look by the fuel injectors, coil should be just next to it or very close. coil usually says motorcraft on it and circle in design.
the sensor is on the rear of your engine next to the firewall on the 5.0 looking at the egr valve just to the right of it, has two small bolts holding it on and holding the stamped steel bracket for its up against
Most of the 4.6 Litre engines have some form
of plastic cover, mine was held in place with two 11mm nuts at the front
and press-fit connection at the back. Remove this cover to gain access
to the spark plugs. You may need to disconnect the air hose going to the
throttle body and some additional vacuum hose connections. Mark them
with masking tape and numbers if you have any question about
re-attaching them correctly. Along each side of the intake manifold you
will see 4 round coils held in place with a 7mm bolt on each one. Remove
the 7mm bolts from each coil. Each of these coils has a connector that
will be disconnected by pinching the connector to release the catch and
pulling gently. Do not worry about marking them unless the wire harness
has been modified. The factory wire harness keeps the connectors next to
the correct coil.
Remove each coil and plug connector by gently turning the
unit to break the rubber loose from the manifold, then pulling up on the
coil/plug connector as a unit. Do not be alarmed if the rubber boot
cover comes off, you can easily reattach it to the coil. Once the coils
and rubber boots are removed, use your compressed air source or vacuum
to remove as much debris from around the spark plugs as possible.
Warning: Wear Eye Protection when using compressed air.
Remove the spark plugs using the 5/8" spark plug socket,
swivel, extension and ratchet. Some engine installations may require
additional extensions or swivels to get the back plugs removed. It
normally takes just an 1/8 turn to break the plugs loose and then about
4-6 full turns to fully remove the spark plugs. If the plug does not
come out with the socket, use the magnetic pickup tool to pull
the plug out. You will not be able to reach it with your fingers.
Using the feeler gauges gap your new spark plugs to the
correct gap for your vehicle. A typical
spark plug gap for this engine is .054 inch. With the plugs gapped, fit
the rubber fuel line to the top of a spark plug and then apply a small
dab of anti-seize compound to the plug threads. Work the anti-seize into
the threads a little bit and then insert the plug into the engine. The
rubber fuel line will prevent you from cross-threading the spark plug
and you should be able to turn the plug in about 3/4 turn or more
easily. If not, remove the plug and make sure that it has not picked up
any debris in the threads. If so, clear it out and try again. Once you
have all of the plugs started, use the 5/8" socket to tighten them just
1/8 turn past their stopping point. Do not over tighten as this is the
leading cause for plug-blowout with this engine series.
With all of the spark plugs back in, you can then proceed to
replace the coil/plug connectors. Replace the 7mm bolts for each coil
and tighten them snugly but do not over tighten. With the bolts tight,
the coil/plug connector should still rotate slightly. Reconnect the
electrical connectors for each coil by gently pushing them in place
until they click. They are indexed and will fit only in one direction. Reconnect
the air hose to the throttle body and any vacuum lines that were
removed. Replace the plastic engine cover and fasten it in place. That's
it, your done.
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Have you checked All eight cylinders have lost spark or just 1 or 2 of them? When checking only remove ONE plug at a time so you don't mess up the firing order.
If all 8 have gone off together it could possibly be an ignition module problem. This module triggers each coil in the correct order.
I would suggest you get the vehicle plugged into a diagnostic system or an OBD2 scanner to check for trouble codes. Trouble codes can give clues to the problem. If you have to pay for the scan get prices at 4 or 5 different places as the prices charged can be VERY different!
4 plugs for a 4 cylinder, 6 plugs for a 6 cylinder and 8 for an 8 cylinder --none for a diesel
pull the coil / lead of each plug ( one at a time ) unscrew the plug using the appropriate tool and replace
when you have to ask these questions it will be cheaper and quicker to get them changed professionally ( plugs cost from $8.00 each for the cheapest to $25.00 each for top quality lines )
AS efi plugs seldom need changing but you have a problem like a misfire, run the fault codes first and have the injectors checked
Spark plug wires just pull off and press back on. Make sure you grasp the wires by the rubber boot only. If you pull the wires by the wires, instead of using the boot, you can break the wires. Remove the plugs with a 3/8" ratchet, extension and a spark plug socket. I do not know if you have to remove anything to get access to the spark plugs and spark plug wires. You may need a universal joint to angle the ratchet.
remove the #7 spark plug if it does not look fouled start the vehicle with the plug still connected and look at the ground electrode for any spark it should be a white arc which indicates a high intensity spark if its orange/red it is a weak spark. If you get a poor spark try removing any other spark plug and test it on the #7 coil wire If you still get a poor spark then your plug wire or ignition coil is to blame and would need to be replaced. You can swap your plus wire to test it in the same way as well. hope this helps
Check to see if your overflow tube againt the fire wall on passenger side is not leaking onto cylinder 4. Pull spark plug boot and make sure it is dry. When the heater core starts going bad it will leak out over flow right there
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