7AFE ENGINE FAILING TO START NO POWER ONFUEL PUMP AND WINDOWS

Yes, a failing injector pump could be causing the issue of the Toyota Hiace starting intermittently after about five attempts. Addressing the injector pump issue promptly can help avoid further engine problems and ensure reliable starting and performance of your Toyota Hiace.

USA?
park lockout failure for sure.
scan it,and check all fuses first.
lots of causes. this old.
bad cam belt,if has one. 7AFE, it does and slipped. oops must be fixed first ,not one belt ever lasted 26 years,. eva.
bad spark.
The PCM runs spark not you, not hotwired,
sure all starters made hotwire with easy as you just did.
PCM will not make spark if PRNDL switch fails and PARK and Neutral shows up as neutral not R- Reverse. or D or L. fail.
PCM runs the pump NOT you, if PCM spark fail it cuts all fuel injection and maybe pump too.
EFI relay pin 1 is E1 to ground body,that?
if the P/N switch fail the starter relay will be dead
60amp main fuse blown makes ST relay dead too.
No SHIFT lock wiring I am read the SM schematics to you here.
fuse good CIG-RAD fuse good, ecu-IG and STOP fuse good.
toyota schematics are joy to read, unlike trash from germans.
shift lock control switch not bad in shifter.
Shift lock cPU board not bad or shift lock solenoid not bad
the later unlocks the shifter.
the same CPU BOARD UNLOCKS THE KEY.
SEEN HERE

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

P1589 TCU Unable To Control Desired Throttle Angle

You have to be careful changing batteries now a days , modules can go to sleep an never wake up ! You need to have a alternative power supply hooked up ! Battery Disconnect or Replacement Problems

Check ignition coil if it gets power on positive terminal

SHOP MANUALS HAVE ELECTRICAL SCHEMATICS SHOWING ALL WIRING, COLORS, TRACER WIRES ETC.....VERY FEW PEOPLE COULD RATTLE OFF WINDOW REGULATOR COLORS OFF THE TOP OF THERE HEADS

wont crank or will not start.? 2 unique things. no crank always results in , no start (unless you push start the car)
hot wiring the fuel pump relay or any relay in the EFI system , invites
blowing the ECU to kingdom come, bad to the bone that.
I fixed them for 50 years. (electronics controls, so know it !)
you do know its really a toyota right?
what ENGINE? each works different.
my prizm text dump.
89-02
joint venture, GM/toyota with 3 engine used.
1.8L or 1.6L
toy engine, 4aFE, 7AFE or 4AG
open hood look
or use the GM RPO tag
or Use the VIN to find motor used.
for docs?
ebay
search
Geo Prizm factory service manual, Duh?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html;jsessionid=D19D723C2EDB4A9FE12E7C01C0677129?_sacat=0&_nkw=geo+prizm+shop+manual&_nkwusc=geo+prizm+shop+manaul&_rdc=1


does car start with test fuel and run, until the fuel runs out.
do you have fuel pressure, while reading the FSM , way of doing it.
some cars only make fuel pressure, cranking and runing.
other make pressure, for 3 seconds key on, and cranking and running only, and all cars drop pump and injections when ECU sees spark die.
that is why stating which Toyota engine YOU HAVE, helps with diagnosis. and please stop hot wiring your car and learn to use a voltmeter. Ive seen $3000 ECU blown up do to bad mechanics.

No you have got your wires crossed on this one ,boy what a pun ? Anyway i cannot help with a good look to see what you have done wrong so i would suggest that you ask a local mechanic to have a look for you

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems. Also engine mechanical problems can and do cause many drive-ability related problem such as rough idle and other symptoms.

4afe or 7aFE engine?
as always for ever and ever, check all fuses.
check it cranking some ECU dont power pump until cranked.
the ones that key on power are 3second, can you run that fast?
no. so crank.
if the fuel pump relay closing and sending full 12vdc to pump wire.?
no?
then fuse is blown
if cel lamp is not on key on fuses, are blown or lamp or ecu bad.
fix lamp first it must glow, that glowing means ECU passes, basic self tests. (like a pc doing P.O.S.T) (i rebuild and tune ECU's)
do you need a schematic,(alldata.com has it)

books are amazing things, no? im looking here, seen it many times.
the magic fuel pump relay on the 4AFE.
it is really a 2 coil relay forming what is called logic "AND"gate
7a works same,.... just looked
the ECU enables coil A with LC command line (software) 0v here.
the main relay must close and 12vdc out to pump relay
then the driver cranks, and relay coil B is activated. and pump spins.
always crank and test. see why?
if you need bigger photo ask, .....
if the relay fails to close cranked, check that the crank
signal makes it to (12v) to top left coil below.
if not there will NEVER be fuel. see crank sig below in red.

If this idles and starts fine, then fuel pump and distributor should be ok. If pump was bad, it would not likely start or run at all. If you have a distributor, then definately check your timing. That's what it sounds like is your timing is off. Do go over all your vaccum lines, that could have same result, but would probably idle fine but accelerate poorly if you had vaccum leak. If timing was off, then it would idle rough and have poor acceleration.
Do you have fuel injection or carbs? I like to use a can of "seafoam" Which removes moisture, depositsm, grime, dirt and anything elese in the fuel system that doesn't belong there.