1994 4Runner-why does front Rgt tire wobble@50-70KL or wobble @thos speed when hitting a little bump or big bump&will not let me go past 70KL without starting to wobble??

A loose front end is no joke. Ignoring the problem can cause premature / uneven tire wear and other costly repairs or accident due to catastrophic failure when least expected.

Typically, front end pivoting points used for steering - called "ball joints" - wear out providing similar sensations as you describe. This is not really a DIY type of repair - and should be brought to a trusted mechanic for a proper diagnosis and repair.


Ball Joints

I think that is somewhat obvious
You stop using a vehicle that wobbles
at any speed just from a safety perspective
There has to be something worn or loose under
the front suspension & possible even the rear
If you never work on or have vehicle experience then
know the shops you have used for most of your life

Have you checked the tires ?
Sometimes a wobble can be a broken belt inside the tire tread.
Or it could be something loose in the hub.
You could also switch the front and rear tire to see if the wobble moves.

Sounds like you have a broken belt in one of your rear tires, or a bent wheel. This would feel like the car is rocking a little bit like a boat on small waves. You can check this out by lifting the rear tires off the ground a slowly rotate them while looking at the tread, if you see the tire really wobble or have a bump in one spot that's it.

If it wobbles at higher speeds like 55-60 mph or so probabley just worn and out of balance tires,If it wobbles at like 25-30mph or so at a lower speed it probabley mean you have a tire seperating and it could blow out at anytime and you would definitely need new tires,at least more than likely the front two.

try changing the tires . you may have a broken bead in a tire, which flattens when you hit higher speed.

could be a bd axle or ball joints wheel bearings are also a concideration

The bumps do initiate the shaking. When my 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 started shaking, I had just had it aligned that morning. A month or so before that alignment, my passenger side outer tie-rod broke while driving down a rock road. I replaced it with a heavy duty MOOG tie-rod end. Anyway, the same day I had it aligned I was driving back home from a job and towing my bobcat behind me. I hit a bump and the truck did the "death wobble" with the front end shaking violently up and down in an alternating fashion (one tire in the air while one tire on the ground and then vice-versa). I changed the tires first (which were worn-out 305/75/17 mud tires). Since the day I bought the truck new in Jan. 2006, I've had larger tires on the truck than the tiny 235/75/17s that came with it and I've done a lot of heavy towing with it and never had a problem until this alignment was done at Sears. I;m still trying to figure out if it was the alignment specs that they used or if the problem coincidentally started that same day. I also changed the steering stabilizer. Neither the new tires nor the stabilizer/damper helped the problem. So I changed the other outer tie-rod end and the upper and lower ball joints (all MOOG with grease fittings). I turns out they were worn out. So, the truck no longer shakes violently up and down when I hit a bump. That problem seems to be in check. However, now when I hit a bump the truck's front end wobbles side-to-side. I can do a few things to recover from it. I can hit the brakes pretty hard and sudden (which can cause an accident on the interstate), or I can **** the steering wheel side-to-side a few times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock) and that stops it immediately...until the next bump in the road. Also, if I let my foot off the accelerator just before hitting a bump and let the truck coast over it instead of power through it, sometimes the truck will ride over the bump without incident. I found out yesterday on a 5 1/2 hour road trip that if I did 80 to 90 miles per hour and powered through every road blemish, the truck rode fine...no shaking at all. I suppose the high speed forces the tires to stay straight when they hit a bump. Lastly, to confuse my problem solving attempts further, sometimes the truck rides like a cadillac (for an hour or so) at regular speeds and no matter what bumps I hit. Then without worning, the front end will loosen up and get that sloppy feeling again and the wobbling comes back at every bump...until the next time it feels like tightening up and driving right again. I have no idea what to do now. I'm going back to Sears today to have them check their alignment. Other than that, all I can think of is to change the rest of the steering components and check the steering box for malfunction. I hope someone can help all of us Dodge owners out off of the road tested info that I've just provided. Dodge doesn't seem to care to address the problems with their trucks front ends, and we need a solution before people get hurt or die. I was almost run over by an 18-wheeler trying to figure out how to handle the shake. I can't afford to buy another truck. So I need to fix this one so I can keep working. If anybody has a concrete solution to these problems, please let us know. I've read 20 different opinions from mechanics on these blogs, but nobody has said yet that they fixed someone's truck with these problems and have since heard from that customer and everything is still working fine. Opinions are helpful sometimes, but they're also confusing when they're conflicting.

most of the time, it's the trac bar bushing. if it's worn, you can death wobble over 40 mph. replace it with a polyurethane bushing.

Steering dampner (thing that looks like a shock absorber mounted sideways) can cause this. Most good alignment shops will check front end components for wear (shame on them if they didn't) but sometimes what seems like "acceptable play" if added to other components in similar condition can add up to a total of unacceptable...If dampner does not help, I'd start eliminating anything with any wear. A side-note to this is about caster angle...I never like factory camber settings...it does make steering easier but I prefer setting caster at least one full degree (+) past factory settings. This makes the vehicle more stable at higher speeds and often eliminates tendency of wheels to wobble. (won't go into full details, but it's why you can ride a bicycle with "no hands" if you turn the fork around and try that you will land on your ****!) If adjustable, it involves placing equal thickness shims on both sides, behind rear of front lower control arms. Changing this may alter toe in, so that should be re-set.