I wondering does this plug pop in or screw in
Sounds like a core plug...any mechanic sort this prob....
SOURCE: Leaking rubber seals
Ryan,
I had the same problem on my wife's 2000SLK, took it to the dealer, they did a water pressure test in this area, charging me $80.00 and came up with nothing. Upon my further investigation, I discovered that there is a drain built into the rubber seal at the top of the windshield, in the corner where the top of the door glass meets that rubber seal on the driver's side. look carefully and you will see three small holes in the rubber seal at the top of the windshield and a larger triangular shaped depression in the corner, this is a "catch-basin" drain that runs all the way down the side of the rubber gasket along the end of the "A" pillar emptying in the space in front of the door, then onto the ground. First I cleaned out the triangular catch basin carefully with a small flat bladed screw driver, then used compressed air to blow out the drain. Blow out the three small holes also. This procedure worked for me. Do the same on the passenger side. Good Luck!
Bernie
SOURCE: i recently purchased a 1996 mercedes c180
Head gasket not torqued down properly or the cam brake assembly above that area is leaking.
The crankshaft oils seals are known to leak after approx 100,000 miles. The Harmonic Balancer (fan belt pulley) end of the engine will have lots of oil and road grit around the oil pan, air conditioning compressor, power steering pump and other area in the engine bay due to wind spread. This seal can be replace without removing the engine. Remove the harmonic balancer bolt and use a pulley puller. If the seal mating surface is grooved replace the balancer too or the new seal will fail soon.
The transmission "bell housing" will weep oil and or trans fluid if the rear crankshaft seal or the transmission seal develops a leak. This seal is much larger than the front seal so it lasts longer and need replacing less often. The transmission will need to be removed from the car to reach these seals.
The oil pan is sealed with silicone engine sealant and will dry out and leak also. Sometimes the leak looks like it is the front or rear seal (pulley or transmission end of engine) but it may be the oil pan leaking and dripping into the pressure plate inspection plate or the pulley. The oil pan can be removed and resealed without removing the engine or transmission but it is a little tricky. Dropping the engine's under brace and exhaust pipe is recommended. Additional engine/transmission support is needed to do that.
While you are under the car look near the oil filter. Above and forward (toward the fan belt is forward) and see if there is oil dripping from the oil pressure sending unit wire. It will leak into the electrical connector. Squeeze it and see if oil seeps out. If so replace the sending unit. It looks kind of like a spark plug screwed into the block.
Near the oil filter you will see the power steering pump mounted to the side of the pulley end of the engine and it is over the right CV drive axle and has several hoses connected. One larger hose is a none pressure hose that gravity feeds the pump from the fluid reservoir mounted above it on the passenger side wheel well in the engine bay. This hose eventually leaks and drips power steering fluid everywhere! It is a molded hose from the dealer parts dept. and relatively easy to replace. Messy but do-able.
Now the top side of the engine. The valve cover has a rubber gasket that shrinks over time in that hot engine bay. Take a Phillips head screw driver is see how loose the screws holding it are. Really loose hu? You can tighten them but you should replace it because it shrunk and that makes the screws loose.
You will need some silicone engine sealant each side of the distributor bridge at the driver's side of the cover. Get a manual to make sure you tighten those screws in the correct order.
Distributor "O"ring seal can leak. Two 12MM bolts to remove it and put a new "O"ring on and you are set. Mark the Distributor's position to the bridge bracket BEFORE you loosen those screws. Line it back up to the marks so you don't mess up the timing and reset the timing after is even better.
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