If my vacuum line to my transmission not hook up would my 87 monte ss shift slow an race my motor in my car cause it shifts its like a stick tho

over drive shift valve need to be checked. is adjustable on most transmissions. check plug for shift senser

could be clogged transmission filter or shift valves in valve body sticking go to auto parts look for transmission additives to help free shift valves and buy transmission fluid for high mileage transmissions the fluid will recondition swell up transmission seal help transmission shift better.

Could be bad torque converter.

You sure the modulator on top of trans is good
or has vacuum?

After several years of use the valve body get dirty
& they only go 7 to 10 years
Got nothing at all to do with mileage

Is the exhaust converter blocked or gas filter clogged

Drive like a civilized whiteman end not like a wounded indain, DUDE

sounds like trans slipping on easy fix rebuild it

When was the last time the transmission fluid and filter changed? I would have that serviced first. If it is an electronic transmission, the line pressure might also have to be reset.

The pops and the disconnected vac(uum) line and the smell of fuel may al be related. The vacuum line to the auto transmission is there to tell that gear shift about the level of load that the engine is under. When you first start the car and accelerate really slowly notice how quickly the gear box shifts up through the gears. However if you accelerate hard the transmission holds each gear for a long time to take advantage of the high power delivered by the high engine speed. The vacuum line conveys to the transmission the level of vacuum in the inlet plenum manifold. When you accelerate slowly the throttle plates only opens a small amount and maintains a strong vacuum level. This vacuum permits the transmission to shift up through the gears quickly. If hard acceleration is demanded the throttle plate is fully open and there is almost no vacuum. The lack of vacuum on the transmission restricts gear shifts. The vacuum lie usually makes connection with the transmission on the left (facing towards the front of the car) near the selector switch. The other end of this line must make connection with a port on the inlet manifold plenum or runner (on my car the port connection is actually very close to the injector on the inlet runner towards the back of the engine). The open connection port is causing the other problems. With un-metered air entering the plenum (not passing through the throttle) the engine computer is struggling to keep the injection times long enough to keep the fuel to air mix balanced. This gives rise to very uneven running and perhaps the 'pops' and smell of fuel that you are experiencing. Locate the connection and stick the vacuum line from the transmission on it. Make sure that there no further leaks compromising the inlet vacuum. Make sure the interior of your 'new' throttle is very clean. All of these things help and add up to a better running engine.

Check this first. On the transmission there should be a small vacuum line that goes all the way to the inlet plenum, check that both ends of this line are are connected securely and that the line has no holes in it. This vacuum line governs the rate at which the transmission moves from one gear to the next. When the engine is running slowly, just above idle, the throttle plate is all but closed and the car will shift through the gears pretty quickly as there is no load and plenty of vacuum. If on the other hand when the engine is racing under load, with the throttle plate fully open, there is little vacuum and the transmission holds in gear for very much longer before up shifting. If this vacuum line is disconnected or leaking the transmission will interpret this as the engine under load and will be very tardy in up shifting.

You need to rebuild the transmission,it's over heating. May want to check your transmission cooler first .
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