Starter was sticking replaced it and starter sylinoid was starting then the starter wouldnt disengage replaced sylinoid again and now wont turn over
HAVE YOU CHECKED BATTTERY VOLTAGE AND CONNECTIONS? LOW VOLTAGE WILL CAUSE A SOLENOID TO STICK AND NOT RELEASE. . MIGHT BE WORTH CHECKING.
Sounds like you got a bad selonoid out of the new box try another one. Just because its nee dont mean its not a bad one.
If the old solenoid had a bad short it may have put your new starter out of commission. Have the starter tested-it should still have warranty for repllacement.
SOURCE: have a 1989 f250 that
It sounds like the TFI Module may be defective, this is the heart of the ignition system, it is a black or grey module with about 6 wires plugged into it on the side of the distributor (it may also be mounted on a finned heat sink on the inside of the left front fender), In rare cases it is the another ignition componet like the ignition coil or distributor stator, make sure you check the coil wire and the distributor for any signs or of being damaged (dist cap and coil lead need to be replaced), white powder on ther coil or distributor terminals is the give away of damage.
Also perform the following test, check with a 12 volt test light: On the coil primary ( connector at coil) there are two wires, one is red. Make sure you have voltage at this wire with the key on, then probe the other wire, usually green, crank the engine and this circuit should blink. If it doesn't, make sure the distributor turns, if it does then replace the ignition module and the stator inside the distributor.
I recommend you use Motorcraft or Ford parts. The aftermarket modules can be a problem as far as reliability. If the distributor rotor doesn't turn when you crank the engine, then you may have a timing gear problem
SOURCE: 87 Ford F250 turns over but wont start
Fuel cut off switch or inertia swith on passenger side kicker panel, it might have got accidently kicked while getting out.
SOURCE: truck wont start no power to sylinoid
The starter may have failed. you can have the starter checked by removing it . then with jumper cables connect the ground to the starter body. Then hit the main cable (positive ) connection . It should turn fast. If it is slow and sluggish or does not do anything. The starter went bad.
SOURCE: 1989 ford bronco full size
Just answered identical problem in another make of vehicle. There are 2 possibilities for your problem. A bad Keyswitch and/or a bad Starter Solenoid. I assume your Bronco did not start, which is a good thing. You could have damaged the teeth on the flywheel if the engine started.
You may need to replace the Keyswitch. It is suppose to send a signal to the "tickler" wires on the Solenoid, connecting the Battery to the Starter. Either the Keyswitch shorted and continued to power the Solenoid, or the Solenoid shorted and Welded a connection after the Keyswitch was turned OFF.
Remove the small wires to the Solenoid. If the Solenoid is welded internally, the Battery will spark when you try to connect the Battery cables and the Starter will spin. This would mean the Keyswitch may still be good, do not reattach the small wires yet.
You would need a testlight or Voltmeter to test each small "tickler" wire by attaching the testlight to a Ground and the other end to the tickler wire. When you turn the Key to Start, the light should Glow. It should not Glow all the time.
My advice is to replace both the Keyswitch and the Solenoid because of the wear they encountered with the malfunction. Then when you get the Bronco to start, go to Autozone or Oreillys for a Starter draw test to see if the Starter was damaged by your other problems. Both of those Parts stores test and scan for free.
SOURCE: Ford f250 Truck 1987 460. Solenoid sticks once in
Most likely you need a new Ignition switch. The small "tickler" wires on your solenoid are staying on. You can disconnect the small wire from the Solenoid and then put a test light on it. Turn the Ignition to Start and see if the wire stays hot when you release the key.
Another problem you could have is the Starter has such a bad intermittent short in it, that it keeps the points welded together after the key is released from the Start position. You can get a starter Draw test done at some parts stores like Autozone or Oreillys to name a few, they do it free and on the truck.
Let me know the result please,
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