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Arturo Vazquez Posted on Feb 12, 2018

WHY MY HYUNDAI SONATA DOES NOT START? IT HAS A NEW BATTERY

The problem began with the horn, it was ringing for a long time till the battery dead. I jumped i out and run without any problem. I took away the fuse of the horn. The next day it didn't start. I though was because of battery so I bought a new one but it didn't start again.

5 Related Answers

freetek

Steve Allison

  • 5569 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 03, 2008

SOURCE: Battery, Alternator Problem 02 Sonata?

Very possibly damaged the alternator; these have six diodes that rectify the ac produced by the alternator (hence its name) and are oriented to produce a positive output/negative ground.  This means that they will conduct if their output has a relative negative voltage applied to the positive output terminal.
If you haven't done it already, you need to disconnect the battery cable or the shorted diodes will drain it completely again and could even damage the plates from heat. 
Generally, rebuilt alternators are quite reliable so replacing with new isn't really justifiable; the commutators and windings are not stressed hard so replacing brushes and diodes and a good (chemical) bath are about all they need to do to restore them. You may even have a local shop that will restore your own unit if you wish.    

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ROB

  • 858 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 17, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 Hyundai Sonata cranks, no spark

usually the distributor MODULE
they are renound for this sort of drama
get the wiring checked aswell as it may be due to faulty charging & causing computor errors [I hope you didnt short out the battery when you changed it!!!! ]

ghost45

PAUL MC G

  • 1280 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 04, 2009

SOURCE: car keeps dying

At first I would suspect the alternator isn't charging the battery -- Now that you mention 'SMOKE'.. Take/Tow your vehicle to an authorized Hyundai dealership and pay the diagnostic fee... they will tell you exactly what the problem is and the cost of parts/labor to fix it... at least this way you'll know what the problem is and what's required to fix it.

Anonymous

  • 7 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2010

SOURCE: 2002 Hyundai Sonata "battery" light

The Alternator may not be charging at the proper level. If the car is running while you're trying to open the sunroof or turn on the defroster, then the battery light has nothing to do with those and they are separate problems. Have an ASE Certified mechanic check the charging system.

ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

  • 17989 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 19, 2011

SOURCE: My daughter's hyundai Accent refused

First check the battery charge and is your starter and alternator is working fine, if this test is OK, then we could forgetted battery or charge problem. Then, we coudl think in some drain battery problem or some parasitic drain; short test is remove the positive and negative cables from the batteries, put an Ohm-meter across the positive and negative cable. If your reading is close to 0 Ohms then you have a direct short. You need to trace the short before you can perform the following tests.

Here some tips in order to check for parasitic draw, you need to be careful so you don't ruin your meter. At the risk of sounding like an elementary teacher, here's what you need to do:

  1. If you don't already have one, get a digital meter capable of reading up to 10 amps DC. Sears sells them for less than $50 - I bought one on sale for $14.99 that I leave in my truck.
  2. Your battery must have a reasonable charge for this test - it won't work if your battery is dead. Quick proof - if your dome light operates normally, you're fine. My truck wouldn't start and the batteries were down to 5.5 volts so I put a charger on the batteries overnight. They are now 12.2 V. When I started the truck the voltage went to 14.3 V so the alternator is working.
  3. Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter. Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so the dome lights are off.
  4. Disconnect the thick positive (Red) cable that goes down to the starter.
  5. To start make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red probe when you are reading current. The meter pictured on the left has one jack for high amps and one for low amps. If yours does, make sure the meter end of the probe is in the right connector. You can either do this next step by just holding the meter probes to their respective contact points (you won't get a shock from 12 volts) or you can use probes with alligator clips to snap them in place so your hands are free to do something else.
  6. Connect the positive probe to the battery - either battery is fine, electrically speaking, since they are connected together by the negative (Black) wires. Polarity on digital meters doesn't matter because they are autosensing.
  7. Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your probe do not touch ground.
  8. If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain on your battery.
  9. If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a reading.
  10. If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or .035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed.

Keep us updated.

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