When bleeding the brake, should the engine be running

Question 1

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Brake pedal goes to floor

for the pedal to go to the floor there is still air in the brake system. Start again starting from the longest line bleeding each in turn to the shortest line . make sure you have adjusted up the rear brakes before bleeding as every time you press on the pedal the shoes expand right out and when you take your foot off the pedal the shoes go all the way back in. adjust them manually and do not rely on the self adjuster as it only adjusts on wheel movement

Jul 15, 2013 • 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac

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Brake pedal soft after changing pads and bleeding brakes

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.

Nov 21, 2011 • 1992 Chevrolet Corsica

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I have installed new rear brake shoes and new wheel cylinders on both sides. I have bled the brakes. Good pedal when engine is off...no pedal at all when engine is started. Bled brakes 4 times.

When engine is running you have a power booster in operation. Without power booster brake pedal will be heavy. With engine running, do NOT press pedal really hard. Just normal firmness. If pedal goes to floor or just too low, it needs bleeding.

Are you sure you did not run the resovior dry?
I would think would not hurt to check the correct procedure for bleeding rear brakes. Here is a YouTube video which should help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T7Qrz3zJno

The other possible issue is the master cylinder piston is not sealing well. Might be a good idea to flush it with fresh fluid, but I imagine you have already if you bled it 4 times.

The way I was taught is this. Two persons method. To prevent mess, put a flexible tube over the nipple and drain it to a jar.
Fill resovior with fresh brake fluid. get ready at the bleed nipple with a small closed end wrench, and have helper sit in driver seat. Have helper pump brake pedal (all the way to the floor if it goes there without forcing it) 5 - 8 times, then HOLD PEDAL DOWN. Slowly open the bleed nipple and close it again BEFORE the pedal is released. Helper should keep pressure on as pedal moves down when fluid is released. Repeat until there is no sputtering or bubbles indicating air comming from nipple. Check and fill the tank every couple times to prevent emptying. If it run dry, you have a big problem. You must bleed the whole system at every wheel till ALL air is out.
Hope I have helped.

Jun 22, 2011 • 1999 GMC Yukon

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Have a 90 dodge dakota bad booster, i changed the brake booster and bled master cylinder. still need to assemble the drum brakes but the brake light is staying on. i read up and pushed the brake light...

You sure you have the correct booster
Or use the same rod
You should not have to bleed anything,you
didn't open the brake system
Now you need to bleed all 4 corners,never
the master,that is a myth.

Ever consider the engine has to be running for
the booster (vacuum remember) to work,
and you can not bleed the brakes without
the engine running as you have to have
someone push the brake pedal thus the booster

the rear brakes shouldn't be apart if your pumping
the pedal,now you screwed up the brake switch position

Mar 17, 2011 • 2004 Dodge Dakota

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1998 frontier 4wd 4 cyl. just replaced front brake pads, rotors, and calipers. also replaced master cylinder. now the brake pedal pumps up without motor running, but as soon as motor is started, with...

yes may need to bleed lines at master cylnder

Mar 02, 2011 • 1998 Nissan Frontier

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After having changed the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and bled them the pedal was good. Then the pedal was going to the floor slowly so I had to pump the brakes to get enough stopping power....

It sounds that you have done a pretty good job at this point. Remember that the brake adjustment will dictate the amount of brake pedal. Recheck to make sure the right brake linings were used. Recheck to make sure the brakes on the rear are adjusted up as far as possible. As far as the bleeding, I have had many cars that will not bleed the sytem without the engine running to give it the pressure needed to pass through the master cylinder and lines. Have a WELL ventilated area, car in neutral, wheels chocked, and bleed the brakes with the engine running. Remember to take all safety precautions to avoid injury before attempting this.

Dec 29, 2010 • Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

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2answers

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.

Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Dec 18, 2010 • 1997 Chevrolet K1500

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1answer

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?

Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.

Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.

Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid

Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel

Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series

Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series

Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.

Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.

Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.

HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.

Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.

Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.

Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.

The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.

Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

Jun 19, 2010 • Cars & Trucks

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2answers

Breaks all new from whells to firewall ,,,all bled an no brake after starting

check master cylinder but after brakes are bled with vehicle running brake pedal pushed down should be even with gas pedal you have to allow extra movement due to vacuum assist you only have this when vehicle is running pedal is only hard when engine is off

Aug 18, 2009 • 1984 Jeep CJ7

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2answers

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...

When you bleed the brakes are you starting with brake furthest from the master cylinder? Also was the master cylinder bench bled? If everything there is okay and you are not getting any air in fluid stream, you could try bleeding the brakes by having some one slowly pump the pedal till it is firm. Then have them let off open first bleeder valve and slowly depress to floor and hold there untol the valve is closed. repeat this at all bleeders. You may want to have car running to do this. Try this and let me know.

Jul 02, 2009 • Chrysler New Yorker Cars & Trucks

Question 2

Thomas Perkins

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Posted on Nov 18, 2012

Thomas Perkins

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Engine should be off and pump brake about 4 times to release pressure, then bleed,driver side rear,passenger side rear,passenger side front,then driver's side front,use a bleeder kit.If pressure won't hold and you have drum brakes,remove both rear hubs and check wheel cylinders for leakage.Check flexable fuel lines at wheels and it could be a bad brake master cylinder.

Answer 2 · 3/24/2009 12:00:00 AM

Anonymous

65 Answers
Posted on Mar 24, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 f150 spongy brakes

it sounds like your still not getting all the air out of your lines. it helps to have a brake bleeder but they are expensive, it also could be that the gasket inside the master cylinder is inverted even if it is a new master cylinder this could be the case, ive had four bad remanned ones in a row, before i got a good one... hope i could help

Joe Lamb

463 Answers
Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: bleeding brake on a 2002 mazda protege 5

Start from the furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way forward..And make sure who is helping you bleed them they hold the brake to the floor and dont let up until you've tighten the bleeder screw..And make sure your master cylinder is full every time you bleed one tire so that you dont run out getting more air in the systems..Hope this helps you and Have A Great Day

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Anonymous

42 Answers
Posted on Mar 18, 2009

SOURCE: brake pedal goes to floor after bleeding the brakes many times

start off by pumping the peddle 25 times with engine off ... bleed the abs system (usually has bleeder valves near/on control unit). then bleed the rest as usual with engine off ... DO NOT turn the key on while bleeding abs brakes.

Curt Downs

1779 Answers
Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal

Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Marvin

85242 Answers
Posted on Oct 18, 2009

SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor

do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.

Testimonial: "Thank You"

Answer 3 · 3/24/2009 12:00:00 AM

Anonymous

65 Answers
Posted on Mar 24, 2009

SOURCE: 2005 f150 spongy brakes

it sounds like your still not getting all the air out of your lines. it helps to have a brake bleeder but they are expensive, it also could be that the gasket inside the master cylinder is inverted even if it is a new master cylinder this could be the case, ive had four bad remanned ones in a row, before i got a good one... hope i could help

Answer 4 · 4/5/2009 12:00:00 AM

Joe Lamb

463 Answers
Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: bleeding brake on a 2002 mazda protege 5

Start from the furthest away from the master cylinder and work your way forward..And make sure who is helping you bleed them they hold the brake to the floor and dont let up until you've tighten the bleeder screw..And make sure your master cylinder is full every time you bleed one tire so that you dont run out getting more air in the systems..Hope this helps you and Have A Great Day

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/joe_a3369546f8067589

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Answer 5 · 3/18/2009 12:00:00 AM

Anonymous

42 Answers
Posted on Mar 18, 2009

SOURCE: brake pedal goes to floor after bleeding the brakes many times

start off by pumping the peddle 25 times with engine off ... bleed the abs system (usually has bleeder valves near/on control unit). then bleed the rest as usual with engine off ... DO NOT turn the key on while bleeding abs brakes.

Answer 6 · 4/21/2009 12:00:00 AM

Curt Downs

1779 Answers
Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: bleed brakes but no pedal

Good! You bled the master cyl. before installation! The proper order of bleeding the lines, is to start with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder. Then work your way to the next greatest distance, and last, the closest wheel. Make sure all air is removed from the lines before you proceed to the next wheel, and frequently check the master cyl. level, because, as I'm sure you know, if you **** in air at the master, you have to start all over again. I'm assuming you don't have a power bleeder, so with a helper do this with car running (make sure it's on safety stands and not going to fall on you!) Pump pedal 3 times, no need to mash the pedal into the floor, just 3 pumps 1/2 way down, hold 3rd pump at half way down level while bleeder is opened, when flow is about to stop at bleeder, close bleeder and repeat til no evidence of any air. Let me know how it goes and if you need any help.

Answer 7 · 10/18/2009 12:00:00 AM

Marvin

85242 Answers
Posted on Oct 18, 2009

SOURCE: brake pedal dropping to floor

do u have the antilock brake bleeding tool? if not you will need to have the dealer bleed the brakes, the ABS control valve must be electricaly held open to bleed the brakes there of course is a special tool for this.

Testimonial: "Thank You"

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When bleeding the brake, should the engine be running

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Thomas Perkins

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Joe Lamb

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Brake pedal goes to floor

Brake pedal soft after changing pads and bleeding brakes

I have installed new rear brake shoes and new wheel cylinders on both sides. I have bled the brakes. Good pedal when engine is off...no pedal at all when engine is started. Bled brakes 4 times.

Have a 90 dodge dakota bad booster, i changed the brake booster and bled master cylinder. still need to assemble the drum brakes but the brake light is staying on. i read up and pushed the brake light...

1998 frontier 4wd 4 cyl. just replaced front brake pads, rotors, and calipers. also replaced master cylinder. now the brake pedal pumps up without motor running, but as soon as motor is started, with...

After having changed the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and bled them the pedal was good. Then the pedal was going to the floor slowly so I had to pump the brakes to get enough stopping power....

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?

Breaks all new from whells to firewall ,,,all bled an no brake after starting

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...

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When bleeding the brake, should the engine be running

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Joe Lamb

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Brake pedal goes to floor

Brake pedal soft after changing pads and bleeding brakes

I have installed new rear brake shoes and new wheel cylinders on both sides. I have bled the brakes. Good pedal when engine is off...no pedal at all when engine is started. Bled brakes 4 times.

Have a 90 dodge dakota bad booster, i changed the brake booster and bled master cylinder. still need to assemble the drum brakes but the brake light is staying on. i read up and pushed the brake light...

1998 frontier 4wd 4 cyl. just replaced front brake pads, rotors, and calipers. also replaced master cylinder. now the brake pedal pumps up without motor running, but as soon as motor is started, with...

After having changed the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders, and bled them the pedal was good. Then the pedal was going to the floor slowly so I had to pump the brakes to get enough stopping power....

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?

Breaks all new from whells to firewall ,,,all bled an no brake after starting

I have a 92 chrsy. 5th ave with no antilock brakes. just base brakes with rear drums. replaced master cly. due to leaking and replaced all the brake lines and hoses. i have good streams of fluid from all 4...

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Brake pedal goes to floor

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