The truck was running bad and had alot of miles on it so we overhualed it and recon. the heads. Put the motor back in the truck with new plugs, plugwires,cap and rotor the truck runs the same as it did before the overhual. I checked for code and got a p1345 thats timing but i put a new crankshaft sensor in to. STILL RUNS THE SAME. I know the dist. needs to be set on #1 at TDC , it looks and smells as if it is flooding the motor and it doesn't clean up at a higher rpm. what could this be i'm about to pull my hair out please have the answer please thanks rick
I own a 98 chev trk, it has a 350 motor.I have a problem with oil running out the tail pipe,could this be the valves.
The whole thing looks still like a timing problem.
Among the other things you should do an ECU scan.
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OK... i have read everything everybody is saying about this problemhere is my take on it.
I believe is the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line off and see if it makes it worse. If it does not make it worse, the vacuum line with your finger for vacuum. If you have vacuum on the line, replace the fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure in fuel injection runs from low at idle to high at wide open throttle using vacuum to regulate fuel flow. So if the fuel pressure regulator has failed to drop the pressure at idle it would be throwing way to much fuel into the engine at idle.
Hope this helps you out.
Mike
I would say
the most common problem is a clogged fuel filter. Make sure you
follow your manufacturers recommendations as to when you should change
the fuel filter. This information should be in your owners manual.
Symptoms include sputtering at high speeds or engine not starting at all.
Always check the ignition system first, if that's ok then the next suspect
is the fuel filter.
Next most common problem is the fuel pump failing.
Most modern electric fuel pumps can be heard when you turn the key on.
If you don't hear the pump running and your car will not start, it could
be your fuel pump. The first thing a mechanic will check is the
relay which sends power to the pump. If this is operating correctly
then the pump will have to be replaced.
Last but not least is dirty injectors. While
the fuel filter does a good job of filtering the fuel, it's not perfect.
Over time deposits and tiny particles lodge themselves in the injectors.
This can clog and injector and prevent it from delivering the fuel the
engine needs. It can also cause an injector to stick open and send
too much fuel into the engine. A regular addition of fuel system
cleaner like STP Injector Cleaner, or Techtron fuel system cleaner can
help keep your injectors clean. Most gas stations, department stores
and all automotive parts stores will have a good cleaner available.
Add it to your empty tank right before you fill up and it will clean as
you drive. I recommend doing this every 3 months to keep your injectors
performing like new. Mechanics also offer a cleaning service where
they actually disconnect the fuel line and flush cleaner through the engine.
This is only necessary when you let your injectors get to a point where
they can not be cleaned by a store-bought product. Regular use of
a good in-tank cleaner will keep you from having to pay for this service.
On newer cars
the fuel pump is usually installed in the fuel tank. Older cars
have the fuel pump attached to the engine or on the frame rail between
the tank and the engine. If the pump is in the tank or on the frame
rail then it is electric and is run by your cars battery. Fuel pumps
mounted to the engine use the motion of the engine to pump the fuel
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You have leaking fuel injectors
The spark plugs in your engine can give you valuable information about how the engine is running. The chemical reaction inside the combustion camber will leave deposits on the spark plug that can tell you the condition inside the engine's combustion chambers. For example: if the engine is running rich all of the spark plugs will have a black or grey shoot covering the spark plug electrode.
My advice is to do a- Engine compression test it's very important for a smooth running engine. An engine depends on an equal compression reading in each cylinder to run smoothly. If poor compression exits in one or more cylinders it can cause a rough idle condition and low engine power output. A compression test of all cylinders is needed to check for engine wear and internal damage. Remove ignition coil connector or ignition system or fuel pump fuse to disable power to the ignition or fuel system to avoid fire. Compare cylinders compression reading, typical compression readings are between 125 p.s.i. and 160 p.s.i. all cylinder readings should be within about 5% of each other. If low compression exists a cylinder malfunction exits and further inspection is required. Possible causes for a low compression condition are: burned intake or exhaust valve, broken piston or piston ring, broken valve spring or a blown head gasket. your smelling blow by gases this is when you have a bad pcv valve here is how to check it Locate the PCV valve
The PCV valve is usually located next to the valve cover of the engine, or in the intake manifold. If you cannot identify it quickly, check with the workshop manual. Check PCV valve operation
Switch on the ignition and start the engine. With the engine idling, pinch the hose attached to the PCV valve hard enough to shut off the supply of air through it. If the valve is working correctly, the idle speed should drop enough for you to be able to hear the change. Alternatively, remove the hose from the PCV valve attached to the valve cover, leaving the valve in place, and putting your finger over the opening of the hose, you should feel suction. Clean PCV valve and hose
Remove the hose and check that it is still pliable and not clogged with sludgy deposits. If the hose cannot be cleaned easily by blowing some air through it, then it should be replaced. Remove the PCV valve and inspect it for deposits. If it can be taken apart, then you can clean it with PCV solvent or lacquer thinners. If it cannot be dismantled but has restricted operation because of sludge, then replace it with a new one of the same type.
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New fuel pump inside tank
Did you install a new timing chain and have you checked the catalytic converter to see if its clogged? a clogged converter will make it run badly
It sounds like you have the timing off at the distributor. To properly check your timing you need to set the engine to #1 cylinder top dead center. At that point, removed the distributor cap and look at where the rotor button is pointing. The rotor button should be point at the #1 cylinder (spark plug). If it is not pointing at the #1 cylinder the the distributor needs to be readjusted. It sounds like you may have the timing off by a tooth on the distributor. If the timing is set correctly, the TDC (top dead center) mark on the crank will be aligned with the mark and the rotor button will point at the #1 cylinder. If the timing is off by a tooth, it will cause the engine to over fuel (flood) and cause the condition you are having. I hope that this solves your problem and has been helpful. Please leave a good comment.
This may be a dumb question but explain running bad. Were the plugs black when you pulled them out, did it have a miss, what was it doing?
I used to be a mobile mechanic. Did the engine shake or was it slow on take off or what. Did you do a compression test before and after? So far it sounds like a weak coil. This could be tested with a test light on each cylinder while it is running. If it wont flash the light, your spark is too weak. Either that or you were flooding which would produce a rotten egg smell going down the road. Wipe your finger at the end of your tail pipe and see if it turns black. If it does, Use bleach to clean the pipe and run it for a couple of days to see if it returns. I can only hope you report good or even fixya on each of my comments as each could be extensive.
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There is a solenoid that changes the exhaust cam timing. p1345 is a crank/cam sensor correlation fault possibly due to a failure in this solenoid.other possible causes include engine timing, pcm, wiring, oil sludge build-up, etc. replacing either of the cam/crank sensors will only make this issue worse as the pcm has no idea which to trust anymore for the relearn process.
I would re-check the timing and make sure cam sensor is ok!
Have You Checked Your Spark Plug Gap? If Its Not Firing properly It Would Cause Rough Idle And A Strong Fuel Smell From Unburned Fuel In The Exhaust.
Hi rdhomesoluti
are you sure the cam gears are lined up also when you line up the crankshaft? There should be markings on them too for where they go.
bestdarngood
Not sure this could be the problem but have you checked the fuel pressure at different rpms, Is the fuel pressure regulator working. I am sure if you have enough knowledge to overhaul you know for certain it is in time, the chain and ignition?
Sounds like you have injector(s) problem. I would put some injector cleaner in the fuel. Also when you start it do you "pump the pedal"?
This code is saying that their is a major difference in the signals from the crankshaft sensor and the camshaft position sensor, it does not indicate a defective sensor, what it does indicte is a possiable disconnected cam sensor or a basic timing issue. Recheck your work.
FROM THE MANUAL:
P1345 - Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation
well u haven't addressed the issue of the out of sync can to crank sensor, these will play heck with fuel control, I know you're stressed over this, buy u did something wrong when u put it bacj together, check the can and crank sensor connectors, also check and make u hooked up all the engine grounds, some I think are at the back of the heads, look carefully.
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Have good spark at the plugs anmd is the crankshaft sensor the only sensor that controls the fuel.
cam was lined up and everything was good at the crank pick up. like i said the truck runs the same as it did before the overhual.
the cam is lind up dot to dot like i said the truck runs the same as it did before the overhual. it ran with a miss in it and smells asif it is getting to much gas. what other sensors run the fuel flow.
i was told that a 1997 chevy 5.7L did not have a cam sensor does it and what is the location of the sensor the crank sensor is new.
Plugs are new along with the cap and rotor wires
i was told that the 5.7L 1997 chevy does not have a cam sensor can any one tell me if it does and location of it
does the exhaust solinoid control the fuel and the timing and how come i get no code on that at all. iring is clean no oil on themplug ends all look good
plug gap is ok it ran the same with old plug and new ones
it is if it getting to much fuel and i don't have a fual presser metter it smells like fuel is not being burnd
why does the motor run as if the fuel is to muck on some banks and not any on other banks i can pull off the plug wires on 3-5-7 and it doesn't change how it runs at all. is this fuel presser.
ya the old plugs looked black and the cylinder after pulling the heads was black and pistons looked clean in some cylinders like it was washed.
i checked the timing and pulled the cap it is on # 1 timing mark is inline maybe its not getting fuel to some of the banks.
new chain has a new exhaust a year a go
will check fuel pump presser
plug wires are all in order it ran the same way be for i overhualed the engine. so what ever is wrong with it it was doing it before it was overhualed.
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