When replacing clutch in actros does tailshaft have to go back in in same position

Question edited for clarity full make model.
Question moved to make model category.

Mercedes Benz Fault Codes

Classtrucks.com https://www.classtrucks.com > buyers-guide > mercede... This page covers the most significant information you need to know about Actros truck fault codes, including common codes, their meanings, and methods of fixing

Mercedes Actros GS Fault Codes

Truckmanualshub.com https://truckmanualshub.com > mercedes-actros-gs-fau... List of Gear Shift Fault Codes (GS) for Mercedes-Benz Actros, Axor, Atego; MB Error Codes.

Fault Code List For Base Module (GM) Control Unit 1 ' PDF

Scribd https://www.scribd.com > document > Fault-Code-List-fo... 5643 Windshield washer pump motor has Short circuit to positive. 5644 Windshield washer pump motor has Open circuit. 5742 Headlamp washer pump motor has Short ...
Rating: 5 · ‎ 2 votes

Sadly Tony... There's a certain logic to that... that rear seal
can be easily damaged while performing the work you described...

When I did those things... I would change the MASTER... AS WELL (because they usually have about the same life-span)


Done together... you only have to fill & bleed the fluid ONCE.

LIKEWISE... the drive shaft is already off... I would be a waste NOT to have put on a NEW SEAL... Right then.

My advice..
Take it back to the CLOWN that did the work
and have that person explain why it is not DIRECTLY
THEIR RESPOSIBILITY.

3 WEEKS is way to soon for issues not to be taken
IMMEDIATELY back where the work SHOULD HAVE BEEN PERFORMED

Sorry to hear of your troubles (about $10 USA dollars)
'96 Courier is NOT a USA market vehicle
(this depicts the seal (example only)) http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117185&cc=1138081&jsn=563

Carnac the Magnificent

back for high beam forward for low beam
high beam will not work in low beam position

Remove the starter motor and check if there is a circular black plastic bung behind it, if there is remove the bung drill a hole through it approximately 10mm alternatively if doesn’t have the bung you can drill a hole in the O/S of the gearbox bell housing (meant to be drilled to 11.9mm but 10mm is fine) the reason for the disengagement is over pressure in the bell housing bizarrely causing the clutch to disengage.

Based on the other problem you describe sounds like a TCM fault, there was a recall on the TCM (if your truck has had it the 2 plugs on the TCM will be facing towards the front of the truck, if it hasn’t there would be 1 plug facing towards the front and 1 facing towards the back), if your truck has had the recall it would be worth booking into a dealer and try to push for parts warranty as the TCM selects the gears and operates the clutch.

Also on looking back at your question, after replacing the clutch the vehicle does require a teach in?
In a worse case scenario you’ll have to fork out for a TCM

As the "U" joints are bigger than the shaft in the bearing , you will have to pull that joint apart

clutch need to change

After speaking to my mechanic I blead the clutch out. It was full of air, now seems to be back to normal. This is the easyest place to start.

I have seen somethings similar to what you describe, 1 - the rear tailshaft was slightly loose, 2 - the yoke the tailshaft bolts to on the gearbox is held on by a big nut and when this is loose or not done up tight enough can clunk. More noticeable in the lower gears because of the high torque.

Let me know what you think.

There are multiple problems that could cause this.one of them being excessive pressure to your clutch servo.check the air-dryer,make sure it is releasing.

pull the gearbox out.remove tailshaft,starter motor,gearstick,and bellhousing bolts.then remove clutch plate from engine flywheel.new clutch and back together again. good luck