Hi Charlie, I suggest you replace the fuel filter and have the fuel pump pressure tested for correct output. Have a diagnostic scan carried out. Regards John
Hi Charlie, Do as I first suggested and get a scan carried out. It sounds to me as if you are intermittently losing power from the charging system or that you are losing fuel input. If the instrument panel lights come on and flash when the vehicle loses power it will probably be a bad connection from the battery. If the instrument panel lights come on and stay on it will maybe be fuel. The diagnostic scan should pin point the problem, even if its intermittent, as any fault codes recorded at the time of a failure will be stored in the ECU. Have a scan carried out. Regards John
i have tried and it absolutely will not read anything, not even when u first plug it in. you know when u plug it in to the car it tells you yo turn ignition on and to hit the green button? it don't even do that. i've even plugged it in to another car just to see if it works and it works just fine. im thinking it's a short but pulled all the wires out of the wire loom and found nothing. Now the comment you made about the lose'n power from the battery sounds like a good direction to look but then again the car turns over just fine. It acts as if the ignition modual is shorting out but he has replaced that, fuel filter crank sensor, maf, and map. maybe the cam position sensor??? would that cause it to cut in and out like that?
Hi Charlie, Now we're getting somewhere! Check the connections into the ECU, keeping in mind there is the ignition live and a constant live, Make sure the plugs and sockets are all making good contact and then check the earthing cables from the ECU. I believe you'll find a bad earth somewhere along the circuits so pay special attention there. I would not be very surprised if some of the earthing connections have become rusted and are making poor contact. Keep in mind the vehicle is more than thirty years old so you shouldn't complain if it has rusted a little. Regards John
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SOURCE: car runs rough at idle
clean out ur throttle body, just follow the hose from the air filter to the throttle body. Need 2 people to do this. Don't remove the hose completely from the throttle body. Just enuff to be able to spray ur intake cleaner into the throttle body. Do this especially if its worse when the motor is hot, as this would confirm the problem.
I had a problem on my Nissan Xterra 2000. Symptons sound similar. In my case, it ran fine for a while and then suddenly the engine starts to stumble and lose output. At one point it did not even have enough HP to move. Irregular idling too. Thought it was water in my fuel. Bought water remover from the store and added to gas tank. Problem did not go away. Instead, "Service Engine Soon" light came on. Had to have it towed to the dealer as there was no way the engine could keep up with traffic. Dealer replaced the "Crank Position Sensor" today. Parts $33.00, Labor: $300 (about 3 hrs worth of work). Seems to work fine now but I will wait and see. Dealer also stated that Distributor bearing appears to be noisy and will need to be replaced sooner or later. I will wait for it to go before I fix that.
SOURCE: 4.3 Vortec losing power at higher RPM's.
SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A PLUGGED FUEL FILTER OR A DEFECTIVE FUEL PUMP, HAVE IT TESTED.
SOURCE: 1998 chevy blazer running really rough. It used
I had a similar problem and just happened to unplug the temperature sensor for the computer and the engine started running smooth.
So I replaced the temperature sensor and all was well!
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Did you do any testing at all or decide you replaced toomany parts to continue that diagnostic approach?
Fuel pump is going on it.
it's not that your not understanding what im saying. drive down the street and turn your key off and on, then u might understand
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