Question about 1990 Lexus LS 400

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90 ls400 no crank no start

I can only get the car to start by removing both the efi and starting relays and applying 12 volts to the correct terminal. ignition switch tested good. could this be a fusible link/open ground? where on the car can i find those? could it be a main relay? where is that located? does the 1990 ls400 have an immobilizer?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bunnydawg
  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: I went out to warm

First unhook the battery for about a half hour to reset the computer.
does that have anti-theft on it.
a remote starter ?
second either swap the relays for the starter and fuel pump or replace them outright.
when you bypass the relay to get it to crank... will it start ?

Robert

if that radio is of the anti-theft variety make sure you know the code and how to enter it

Posted on Dec 25, 2009

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thomasmoo143
  • 48 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4

the ignition switch provides the ground but even though it looks ok the problem is most likely the relay as the are very bad for this

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

  • 1584 Answers

SOURCE: 94 Chrysler Town and Country won't start with key.

has it got an immobiliser / if so there is a fault there. If not an ignition switch itself.

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

  • 229 Answers

SOURCE: efi fuse blown after engine start

I think gas is not getting to your fuel rail.

Could be the fuel pump. To access it you will have to remove you rear seat and take off an oval shaped plate. There you can remove it and replace the pump.

Posted on May 24, 2010

johnjnail
  • 1702 Answers

SOURCE: 01 Celica won't start, no

sounds like there is no power to the EFI relay, there is an EFI fuse in the under hood fuse/relay box, if fuse is ok take a power probe ( by the way there are 3 EFI fuses a 15 amp and 2, 7.5 amp ) remove the EFI relay and power up terminal #3 and see if the fuel pump powers up with the key on, this is the power circuit for the coil. injectors, and fuel pump.

check this out and let me know what you find.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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Hello! I sent a test procedure to you Wednesday evening but It appears you did not receive it ..This is the path for Battery and Ground to pull the crank relay which applies +12 volts to the starter solenoid..Either there is a fault in this path or the starter itself was damaged in the collision...Leaving the ignition switch when in start ...+12 volts on the Yellow wire goes to the Crank fuse (10A)...Other side of fuse is Purple wire to PCM C-2 Pin # 23...+ 12 volts at this point...PCM sends a ground on C-2 pin #76...Yellow/Black wire to crank relay....+ 12 volts from the PCM ABS fuse (10A)...via Park/Neutral switch to crank relay...Relay pulls and applies +12 volts on the Purple wire that goes to the starter...That +12 volts, if there,indicates a starter damaged in the collision...If not there chase it back until you lose it...Would you be so kind as to not rate my solution until the test procedure is accomplished...Send a comment..saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

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Code 11 means no distributor reference signal detected during cranking. Check the circuit between the Distributor and PCM (computer). Also, keep in mind the following operations/tests apply to these relays only: Automatic Shutdown (ASD) , Fuel Pump and Ballast Bypass. For operations/tests on all other relays refer to the appropriate test.

OPERATION:
The relay terminal numbers can be found on the bottom of the relay.
Terminal number 30 is connected to battery voltage and can be switched or B + (hot) at all times.
Terminal number 87A is connected (a circuit is formed) to terminal 30 in the de-energized (normally OFF) position.
Terminal number 87 is connected (a circuit is formed) to terminal 30 in the energized (ON) position. Terminal number 87 then supplies battery voltage to the component being operated.
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TESTING:
Remove relay before testing.
Using an ohmmeter, perform a resistance test between terminals 85 and 86. Resistance value (ohms) should be 75 ±5 ohms for resistor equipped relays.
Connect the ohmmeter between terminals number 87A and 30. Continuity should be present at this time.
Connect the ohmmeter between terminals number 87 and 30. Continuity should not be present at this time.
Use a set of jumper wires (16 gauge or smaller). Connect one jumper wire between terminal number 85 (on the relay) to the ground side (-) of a 12 Volt power source.
Attach the other jumper wire to the positive side (+) of a 12V power source. Do not connect the jumper wire to relay at this time.

CAUTION: Do not allow the ohmmeter to contact terminals 85 or 86 during these tests. Damage to ohmmeter may result.

Attach the other jumper wire (12V +) to terminal number 86. This will activate the relay. Continuity should now be present between terminals number 87 and 30. Continuity should not be present between terminals number 87A and 30.
Disconnect jumper wires from relay and 12 Volt power source.

If continuity or resistance tests did not pass replace relay. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and connector are located in the engine compartment, mounted to the inner fender, next to the air cleaner housing (click image fo zoom).
DTC 11 - No reference signal during engine cranking. No camshaft reference signal was detected during engine cranking.
DTC 12 - Battery disconnect. Battery input to PCM disconnected during last 50 key starts.
DTC 42 - ASD relay control circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shut down relay circuit.

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Hope helps.

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When you turn the key, you should at least hear the starter solenoid click. When you turn the key the ignition switch sends 12 volts to the Starter solenoid ( really just a relay). The Solenoid closes and applies 12 volts (at a high current) to the starter motor to crank the engine. If you have a way to measure voltage, you should get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is mounted on the top of the starter motor.If you get
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When you turn the key, you should at least hear the starter solenoid click. When you turn the key the ignition switch sends 12 volts to the Starter solenoid ( really just a relay). The Solenoid closes and applies 12 volts (at a high current) to the starter motor to crank the engine. If you have a way to measure voltage, you should get 12 volts at the small terminal on the starter solenoid. The solenoid is mounted on the top of the starter motor.If you get 12 volts but no cranking, the solenoid is not working. If you get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank the starter is defective. At this [point take a small hammer and tap the starter motor, not hard, just medium. Sometimes this will cause the starter motor to catch next time you turn the key. Best bet is to remove the starter motor (with solenoid attached) and take it to an Auto Zone type store where they can check it out for you. Be dure you disconnect the ground terminal of the battery before you attempt to remove the starter motor.

Hope this helps Good luck loringh PS Please leave a rating for me if appropriate Thks

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