Where is the inline fuse between altenator and battery

check alternator mega 175 amp fuse.check alternator inline 20 amp fuse to voltage regulator and check alternator ignition 10 amp fuse. battery cables could be old worn out causing charging problems.make sure drive belt not slipping.

Get a wiring diagram & see what is on that fused
circuit & work that circuit. Leave the fuse out at
first & make sure only that fuse & circuit is involved

When a car gets over 15 years old, then & only
then, do you start to have fuse issues as wiring,
connections,relays,switches & devices using electrical
current, start to get loose,corroded,& develop resistance

I would remove & clean every ground wire on the car you
can find

Both ends of the battery cables as well

Do voltage drops afterwords on cables

Check for alternator diode leakage or what
is called a/c ripple

Check for current draw by putting an amp meter
in series with either battery cable & wait for things
to time out,make sure you leave the doors closed
& allow at least 10 to 15 min.

You shouldn't have over 50 to 70 milli-amps

Just the clock & computer memory & some keep
alive items

Don't keep replacing the fuse,that is not a fix

You may find a blown fusible link or burnt wire/bad connection at the starter large terminal.I would start the car and check voltage output at the alternator output terminal first in case it's just a bad alternator.If you have 14+ volts at the alternator output terminal,you could also just run a 10 gauge wire from that terminal to battery positive directly and disconnect the alt feed to the starter terminal.

Hi Kevin,
I saw your comment on one of my other Kia alternator solutions. The easiest way to check the 80 Amp main fuse is to check for battery voltage at the battery connection to the alternator (the BIG wire). If battery voltage is present at this point, the problem is NOT the 80 Amp fuse. I am really glad to see that you are at least trying to troubleshoot before running out and wasting your money on parts - better than MOST on this site!

The only other thing you should check is to test for voltage at the "S" terminal on the alternator. It is the GREEN/WHITE wire. This is the ignition voltage wire. It should have voltage whenever the ignition switch is in the ON or RUN position. If the engine runs, there is no way there is a blown fuse to this wire because it is powered by the same fuse that protects the ignition circuit to your engine computer. If you have power at both of these wires, replace the alternator.

Have you taken the battery to autozone or someplace and had the battery tested? I would find if you know the alternator is good it must be the battery itself. Might want to try that if you havent already. Good Luck Bro~




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CHECK ALTERNATOR 175 AMP MEGA FUSE. AND CHECK ALTERNATOR 20 AMP INLINE FUSE.IF FUSES OKAY.REPLACE BATTERY CABLES AND CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR DAMAGE.AND CHECK DRIVE TENSION.MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT DAMAGE OR SLIPPING.

Your alternator should putting out 14-14.6 volts with engine running.If you only have 10 volts with engine running then your alternator is not charging take alternator back for a replacement.

altenators have to be running a 13.5 volt charge to be good

check the battery with a volt meter. Place the probes from the meter inverted which means positive from the meter to negative on the battery and negative from the meter to the positive one the battery. MAKE SURE YOU STE THE METER TO THE DC & NOT TO THE AC MODE BEFORE YOU TURN THE METER ON. Now start the engine and see if a reading shows of 14 - 15 volts. If so the diode is bad in the altenator. The diode suppose to keep the current running only one way. If the current is running both directions the altenator does not charge the battery completely and the battery light will come on this way also

1. Check the gauges, if the car is equipped with them. If you have a volt/amp gauge, it will read the alternator output for you. Turn on the blower fan for the AC or Heater, the headlamps, and any other accessories that put a strain on the alternator, and watch the gauge to see if it decreases voltage or amperage. As a rule, if the voltmeter is higher when the engine is running then when the engine is not, you can confidently assume that the alternator is charging.
2. Open the hood, and with the car engine off, loosen the negative battery cable so that it can be removed with little effort. With the battery cable still loosely attached to the terminal, crank the engine, then pull the battery cable completely free of the terminal. If the engine continues to run, the alternator is providing enough voltage to power the electric circuits that provide spark to the spark plugs, electric fuel pumps, etc. You can increase the demand on the alternator by turning on headlamps, heater blower fans, and other electrical accessories to determine the draw capability of your alternator. If the engine immediately dies when the cable is removed, the alternator is probably bad

1. Put a voltmeter as close to the alternator as possible. (Positive and Negative both.) If you can put the meter leads directly on or in the wire coming off the alternator that would be optimum.

2. Now start the car and turn all accessories off and check the voltage level. It should be between 13.5 and 15.1 volts. (depends on your make and model of car) It is a good idea to write down all voltage readings your taking. The main thing your looking for is a drop in voltage. Once you hit around 12.5, your alternator is not going to produce any additional amperage.

3. Now turn on one accessory at a time. Write down that accessories fuse rating. Keep turning on accessories and adding fuse ratings until the voltage falls to 12.5. Now add 15 amps if your electric cooling fans are on and 10 amps per battery in your system. Your numbers may look like this.

2 batteries- 20 amps
Cooling fan- 15 amps
Headlights - 10 amps
A/C blower - 10 amps
Rear Dfrst - 15 amps
High Beams - 10 amps
Fuel Pump - 10 amps