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Remove the rear wheel. There's a plastic road dirt cover over the filler tube. The top of the tube is secured with 2 or 3 small (M6) bolts, in the filler door area. The tube has another 2 or 3 M6 bolts, and is clipped into a rubber hose on the bottom end (this hose goes to the tank).
The service manual calls for 5W-30. Full synthetic would be your best bet on oil changes with a OEM Subaru oil filter and new gaskets (o-rings). Depending on your area (hot or cold), the viscosity rating of the oil you use can vary to off set efficiency in the hot or cold temperatures.
Rebuilding the engine is the only true cure. Be sure that the engine warms up without driving it. In other words, don't put any excessive load on the engine while it is cold. Once it warms up, the piston, rings, pins, etc. will expand from the heat. This is why you only hear slapping when the engine is cold.
if not skipping and losing power take it to a reputible exhaust shop to check for exhaust flow.. possible stopped up cat. could also be a timing problem
Warm the engine up, Remove the Drain plug and drain oil out (Drain plug is on the drivers side of the pan).
When oil is done draining replace the drain plug and install a new crush seal (silvery washer on drain plug)
Next you will need a Oil filter socket. Use the oil filter socket with a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 6 inch extension, remove the filter, it will be full of oil.
Use fresh motor oil and coat the gasket on the new filter and install. tighten filter 1.5 turns past hand tight.
Refill the engine with 5w-30 Conventional oil. (start with 4 quarts than check the dipstick) Subaru recomends havoline as this is what they come with from the factory.
Wipe up any oil that may have spilled on the exhaust cross over pipe.
If you have any of the large chain auto parts stores in your area, call them and ask if they do free scans; most do.
If Subaru has maintained the same procedures for a while, and you have checked fluids, etc., you can try resetting the light via the ignition switch:
-Turn on the ignition (don't start)
- switch it rapidly between the 'ignition on' and 'ignition off' positions three times.
If the error has cleared itself (not uncommon), the check light will reset. If the problem is still present, it will either stay or come back on.
Our Su has done this a couple of times and with the scanner we have on hand, there was never any particular repeated problem.
Just a computer glitch/hiccough -
Most Subarus have a coating on the bottom of the chassis called Cosmoline, which is an anti corrosion compound sprayed on at the factory to protect them during shipping. The only thing I can recommend is to have your brakes inspected for siezed caliper slide bolds, severe rotor deterioration, and sway bar end links that may be broken or are about to break. You should also have the exhaust looked at because that is usually the first to go and the biggest pain when trying to get it emissions tested. I hope this info helps...
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