My FI Fuse keeps blowing in my 92 tracker

There is an actuator motor located on the transfer case. It selects range; hi neutral and lo and engages the front differential. There is a second clutch actuator motor on the front differential that engages the front wheel hubs.

You will need to disconnect both motors to eliminate electronics. It could also be you have an abraided wire to either the transfer case or the front differential. If unplugging both actuators doesnt stop fuse blow, you will need to test for signal or power to ground shorts.

Free (with ads) schematics are available using the "carmin std" app.

which engine, 8v or 16valves??????
wrong fuse name, its IG-coil or FI. (be clear, it matters)
use correct names please.
there are 2 prime causes, seen 100 times on real suzuki forums
tracker = vitara=sidekick.
ECU caps short.
or the fuel pump is sucking way too much current
4amp is normal on the pump pike power line (real data)
the ECU on 89-95 all had/have bad huge internal capacitors.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html
that love to leak, short and or explode.
if they have back skins and say Rubicon on side, bingo , TRASH CAPs.
in the real world i can be lots of things shorts.
all wiring on all cars, can short. vibration and time, and bingo.
automobiles use poorly made harness clamps is why.
(unlike air craft,)
here is the 16v wiring (tossed coin for you)

i bet you, FI fuse 24 blows, right?
and is here, see it.


http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-schematic_files/92-95mpi-eng-full-size-huge.png

top fails are
1: ECU caps.
2: 02 sensor heater wires shorted, melted , last guy forgot clamps.
3: Distributor hot wire shorted to engine body, bad service.
4: fuel pump or its wire shorted.

i use an magic tool called an AMMETER to find which of the 4 pathes are shorting,
but on all G16s, we pull the lid on the ECU first day get car
and check for cap leaks, or cracks.
fix the leaks now, or the ECU will burn up.$$$$$$$$$$$$

for fun , see one guy here now with cap death.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/showthread.php?tid=916&page=2

the 02 wires are like a 1 second inspection
the distrib wire, 1 second glance.....
the ECU screws, are a #3 huge Phillips screw, and tight.
the first link above as a section called ECU pull.

is car 2door or 4?
is car 2wd or 4.?
is car stick or auto.?
is engine 8v or 16valves. ?
all matter, all wiring is different by those factors, every inch.
tell more get more.... as always...

the 8v has black painted head, TBI
the 16v has silver head that yells, 16valves. MPI
which is it?

there is a page dedicate to this. for 10 years+

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html#FI_blows

read that.?

first off each fuse has a name , so what is the correct name, the 92
has 3 EFI fuses, DOME (memory) IG-Coil (ecu and spark) and "FI"
never up the amps ever or burn the wires up. sorry but that is a FACT. the a above data is wrong, this cars pump draws 4amps.
if more its bad, sure if over 15 it blows, but is a bad pump.
all pumps like to do that, they burn up and suck power, like a piggy.
see your fuse here, linked,
this car and ECU nor know for shorted pumps and shorted ECU
the 92 uses these JUNK brand caps, large electrolytic caps.
and they love to short, on all 89 to 95 trackers and sidekicks in usa.
they are marked Rubycon.

so again which fuse?
ill pretend its FI blown

http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/blows-fuse.html#FI_blows

FI is bottom right, lost the cover? now you have one.
http://www.fixkick.com/Elect-fail-index.html

is engine 8 valve or 16?, they have different EFI , systems.
Im sure its FI, as it runs ECU and pump. so..... and they love to blow.


ok i throw dice for you, land on 8v.
see 8v FI fuse here?
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg

what i do is remove the left rear tail light,lens.
then see the pink pump wires, I measure the pump current
i reads 4 amps, with helper keying on over and over.
see?
now if near 4amps, then the ECU is shortings it CORNER cap.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html

the caps dry out,inside, leak acid , wreck copper traces
and then the cap shorts, some times , it loves to short on speed bumps. due to vibration, its just a bad 50 cent part
that any tech can change or any HAM radio guy, etc.
with simple soldering tools and skills
do tell engine type G16a or b (a= 8v, and b = 16v) and we can
point to exact part bad.

does engine run, and lights work? huh, "symptoms"?
what fuse?
fuses blow for short circuits to prevent the fire.
here is the 96 fuse box. i can help, i have the full FSM.+++

see fuses 96 here
http://www.fixkick.com/Elect-fail-index.html

bay
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/fuse-power/suz96-box2-fender.jpg

which fuse.
FI = fuel injectors, etc
IG = ignition.,
H/L = head lamps.

fuel injection
FI can blow for many reasons.
fixkick.com has that
ECU bad. (caps in side shorted, is extreme common)
Fuel pump shorting are the 2 top reasons.

Hi Jeff , in what fuse box is this 10 amp ign. fuse located ? I am looking at a power distribution diagram and i see a IGN 3 10amp fuse located in the I/P fuse box ! Is this the fuse that blows ? I see where you replaced the 10 amp with a 30amp . That is never a good idea , you don't want to make your problems worst . Melt wiring harness , could start a fire . Do you know how to do electrical trouble shooting ? How to use a wiring diagram , power distribuition diagram ? That fuse is hot in the run , powers the rear Heat / A/C , automatic level relay, ESC - electronic suspension control module , rear wheel steering control module , Plus someother thing's depending which vehicle , Y91 - ULT . Your Taho doesn't have all this options . http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html find the thing's that fuse powers , disconnect them one at a time till the problem goes away .

Hi, if you have the 4-cylinder, only the PCM and the ignition is on this fuse. If you have the V-6, the camshaft and crankshaft sensors are also on it. What I recommend is to disconnect everything on the fuse except the PCM, and then turn the key on. If the fuse blows, you know your PCM is shorted. If it doesn't blow, reconnect the ignition module and turn the key on again. If the fuse blows, you know the ignition is bad. If not, plug in the sensors one at a time to see which one is shorted. The location of the sensors are shown below, but there are 2 possible locations for the crankshaft sensor. The ignition module is under the coil pack. Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.









Ignition module

My 92 chevy is still blowing the ecm fuse. I have unplugged the ecm and the fuel pump and it is still doing it. What should I do next

could be the main computer - but last time a saw - they where over a $1000.00 dollars. suggest finding some one to install a matching amperage circuit breaker in place of fuse. it will trip and automatically reset - caution : if problem gets worse, could cause wire melting and fire

The conector for the a/c compressor comes with a diode that keeps power from returning after the compressor cycles off. Check or replace the connector/and or diode and see if that fixes the problem