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You need to measure across your brake drum, from back side or at least look at front for Min.Thickness stamped on front of drum.If min. thickness is readable, it should tell you what you need to know.
I believe your referring to 9" or 10" brake drums to purchase correct wheel cylinders .you will need to measure the diameter of the inside of the rear brake drum .
Measure the old rear wheel cyclinder and it should find out if you have 9" or 10" cyclinders or you can take it to the auto parts store and they can match it for you.
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disconnect the front and rear brake lines, undo bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster. Bench bleed the new master and reconnect to booster and reconnect lines. Be very careful when undoing the lines from the master cyclinder as you do not want to damage them. Soak with WD-40 before loosening. Once everything is back in place you will need to bleed all calipers and/or wheel cylinders. Again soak the bleeder screws beforehand with WD-40 as they break off easily.
It sounds like you have air in your brake lines. This is usually caused by a very low brake fluid in the master cyclinder. To fix this problem fill up the master cyclinder with brake fluid and bleed the front wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Keep the master cyclinder topped up with brake fluid. Then bleed the rear wheel brake cyclinders until the air bubbles are removed. Don't forget to top up the brake fluid in the master cyclinder.
if you have drum brakes on the rear of the car and the leak is at the back of the car the part is called a wheel cylinder if the leak is coming from inside the brake drum.
There are no o rings as this is a flare fitting.Make sure that your rear shoe to drum adjustment is proper, as the wheel cylinder will continue to leak, if the travel is too far. this can be caused by a froze up self adjuster mechanism. Hope this helps. Plese contact with any more questions.
the master cyclinder is divided into diagonal wheels. meaning that each line from the master cyclinder provides fluid to a front wheel and rear wheel. on the front resevoir of the master cyclinder it would be perhaps the left front and right rear brake for example. you need to block the lines going to the rear wheels independently and then bleed the brakes again starting with the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder.
remove rear wheel remove brake drum remove brake line from wheel cyl.remove least amount of tension springs and shoe assembally as possible then remove the 2 bolts that hold the cyl in place the bolts are on each side of brake line.then follow directions in reverse to install new one.hint if you're not really used to doing drum brakes ONLY TEAR DOWN 1 SIDE AT A TIME INCASE YOU FORGET WHICH WAY SOME OF THE SPRINGS OR CABLE GOES BACK YOU WILL HAVE ANOTHER SIDE TO LOOK AT FOR A GUIDE.when you have them back on you'll need to bleed all air from the system. hope i helped.
1. You could have air in the lines yet, but more specifically, I would need to know if you have anti-skid system in your car. Also, you may have a proporation valve in the system that has to be activitated before the system can be bled.
In bleeding, you start at the rear wheels first and then work to the front, doing the master cyclinder last.
Finally, the brake master cyclinder is designed so that the front part of the cylinder pumps fluid to only one front wheel and only one rear wheel. The rear part of the master cylinder only pumps fluid to the other 1 front and 1 rear. This is so that if you loose your brakes, you will always have a rear and front working.
Bill
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