Front manual locking hubs 1990 f-250

the front wheel bearing hub?
XL-7 (the dash matters)
my wild guess, is the questions was
what are all steps to do this job. and tools.
that?
RTM?

https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10056-2002-grand-vitara-xl-7-service-manual.aspx

http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html#newer
the link shows all years, and variances.

here is a photo review, that is accurate up to
1998, and beyond , if you skip the bearing service parts. as yours are INTEGRATED
and NON-serviceable.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html


the photo 6a and B
shows removing the hub,
so do that , buy a new hub and put it back
the same way, using the tool stated
at the stated ranges of torque
123-180 ft/lbs.
this range allows you to get the screws into the locking rings.

For Trackers (and Sidekicks) of this era (1989 to 1998) the front axle locking device is a locking hub on each front wheel. (There are no actuators until the model change in 1999.) Locking hubs come in two flavors, Manual and auto locking hubs. A look at the from wheel should tell you what you have. Manual hubs have a knob like lever with the word "lock" and "free." Auto hubs say "Auto-Locking" right on them. Both types of hubs require servicing periodicity. (Normally annually.) This means removing and disassembling. Then cleaning and light greasing before reassembling. There are some good videos on the web on how to service the manual hubs. Auto hubs are a little harder to ensure they are working properly, but some people like them. (Not me.)

Please note two things:
1. Due to differential action, BOTH hubs need to be locked for any power to be applied to the front wheels.
2. Trackers of this era are PART TIME 4x4, NOT all wheel drive. They have nothing providing for different wheel speeds front to back like a center differential. This means they should NOT be used on non-slippery surfaces like dry pavement. Beside causing handling and braking issues, it can destroy your transfercase driving on dry pavement in 4x4 due to what is called "driveline wind up".

PLEASE if you do not understand this, look it up... if you still do not understand, ask and do not use the 4x4 until you do.

The hub should have grease in the taper bearings that go on the stub axle. If the grease was missing and the bearings were dry and rusted then the grease seal in the hub had failed and water was let into the bearings. Replace with new bearings and repack with a water resistant grease. Fit new seal .

im not familiar with truck but her are some ideas, when you say hub are you saying only one? does this truck have manual or auto hubs? If so, some times the hub grease gets to cold and will not allow the hub gears to slide or engage. Its possible that the drivetrain or 4x4 works but hub is stripped gear, use axle grease on bearings but use lithium grease on gear.

Section 05-03C: Wheel Hubs and Bearings, Front Wheels, 4-Wheel Drive 1997 F-250/350/Super Duty Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000 Locking Hubs, Manual




Item Part Number Description 1 3A329 Halfshaft 2 3C132 Rolling Diaphragm Seal (Axle) 3 3299 Integral Spacer Needle Bearing Seal 4 3123 Bearing, Caged Needle 5 3105 Front Wheel Spindle 6 1190 Wheel Hub Grease Seal 7 4221 Inner Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 8 1102 Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor 9 4221 Outer Wheel Bearing (with Bearing Cup 4222) 10 - Pin (Part of 1195) 11 1195 Inner Lock Nut 12 1198 Lockwasher 13 1197 Outer Lock Nut 14 - Steel Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 15 - Plastic Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 16 - Splined Thrust Washer
(Part of 3B458) 17 3B457 Snap Ring 18 1K105 Hub Body 19 - Lock Ring (Part of 1K106) 20 1K104 Cap 21 1K104 Capscrew A - While Rotating Front Disc Brake Hub and Rotor, Tighten Inner Lock Nut to 68 Nm (50 Lb-Ft) to Seat Bearings. Back Nut Off 90 Degrees (1/4 Turn). B - Tighten to 217-278 Nm (160-205 Lb-Ft) C - Tighten to 4-6 Nm
(35-53 Lb-In) Removal

1. Separate cap assembly from hub body by removing the three Torx® head capscrews.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the lock ring seated in the groove of the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
   
   
   
   
   

1. Remove the hub body assembly from the front disc brake hub and rotor. If the body is difficult to remove, install two capscrews and pull the body assembly out of the front disc brake hub and rotor.
   
   
   
   
   

Installation

1. NOTE: Do not pack the hublock body assembly or cap with grease. Excessive grease can cause excessive dialing effort and hub failure.
   
   Follow removal procedure in reverse order.
   

1. Tighten three Torx® head capscrews to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
   

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Front wheel
   • Brake caliper and rotor
   • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
   • Hub grease cap, if equipped
   • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
   • Wheel bearing lockwasher
   • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer
   • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
   • Wheel hub oil seal
   • Wheel bearing oil seal
   • Snapring
3. Press the wheel bearing and race out of the hub. To install:
   
4. Press the wheel bearing and race into the hub so that the race is fully seated in the hub bore.
5. Install or connect the following:
   • Snapring
   • Wheel bearing oil seal
   • Wheel hub oil seal
   • Wheel hub and bearing assembly
   • Wheel bearing locknut and inner washer. Tighten the nut to 157 ft. lbs. (216 Nm).
   • Wheel bearing lockwasher. Tighten the retaining screws to 13 inch lbs. (1.5 Nm).
   • Wheel speed sensor, if equipped
   • Hub grease cap, if equipped
   • Locking hub or hub drive flange, if equipped
   • Brake caliper and rotor
   • Front wheel

--- Go to your local auto parts store or library to get a copy of the repair manual for this model.

replace the bearing or wheel hub assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2wd Models NOTE: Refer to wheel bearing service and bearing preload adjustment procedures found in Section 1.

1. Raise the front of the truck and support it with safety stands. Remove the wheels.
2. Remove the brake caliper and suspend it with wire, out of the way. Remove the caliper torque plate if equipped.
3. Remove the dust cap and then remove the cotter pin, lock washer (if equipped) nut lock and nut.
4. Pull the hub/disc assembly off the spindle with the outer bearing. Don't let the bearing fall out.
5. Pry the inner oil seal out and remove the inner bearing. To install:
   
6. Clean and inspect the bearings and outer races.
7. Using a brass drift and a hammer, drive out the bearing outer race. Press a new one into position.
8. Pack the bearings with grease until it oozes out the other side. Coat the inside of the hub and cap with grease.
9. Position the inner bearing into the hub, coat the oil seal with grease and press it into the hub.
10. Press the hub assembly onto the spindle and install the outer bearing and thrust washer.
11. Install the hub nut. Turn the hub a few times to seat the bearings and then loosen the nut until there is 0mm axial play. Using a spring tension gauge, check that the preload (with new grease seal installed) is 2.2–6.4 lbs. (9.8–28.4N)
12. Install the lock-nut, new cotter pin and hub grease cap.
13. Install the brake torque plate. Install the brake caliper.
14. Install the wheels and lower the truck.

4wd Models The hub and bearing service procedures for a 4wd models are basically the same as those for a 2wd version, with the exception of removing the free running hub assembly and the bearing preload adjustment. Refer to Sections 1 and 7 for additional information. Adjust the preload after the wheel bearing is replaced or the front axle assembly is reassembled. BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT

1. Thoroughly clean all parts and pack the wheel bearings.
2. Apply grease to threaded portions of the spindle, grease seal lip and wheel hub.
3. Tighten the wheel bearing lock-nut with a socket and torque wrench to 58–72 ft. lbs. (78–98 Nm).
4. Rotate the hub in both directions a few times to seat the bearings. Loosen wheel bearing lock-nut.
5. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm).
6. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions.
7. Retighten the lock-nut to 0.4–1.1 ft. lbs. (0.5–1.5 Nm). Fig. 1: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 2wd models
   Fig. 2: Removing the bearing outer races
   Fig. 3: Packing the wheel bearing with grease
   Fig. 4: Pack the lip cavity of grease seal with grease
   Fig. 5: Exploded view of the front axle assembly — 4wd models
   
   
8. Measure wheel bearing axial end-play. The wheel bearing end-play specification is 0.
9. Install lock washer by tightening the lock-nut within 15–30 degrees.
10. Turn wheel hub several times in both directions. Wheel bearing should be seated correctly.
11. If necessary, measure wheel bearing preload. NOTE: Measure wheel bearing preload with a spring-type gauge; measure at wheel hub bolt, with tire removed. The hub assembly should rotate with 1.6–4.7 lbs. (0.73–2.13 kg) of pressure.
    

There are places to lubricate the joints and such in the front end. The ball joints certainly have lube points if nothing else does. Anything that could be metal to metal contact needs periodic lubrication. Check your owners manual for Lubrication types. Most are using a molediumdysulfide based lubricant in the newer vehicles. It is easily available at Walmart and most auto parts stores. Just don't use a graphite based Lube unless it is specifically called for. If your owners manual is short on information on this you should pick up a Haynes repair manual on your vehicle. It will specify lube points and intervals and what type of lubrication to use.

NOTE: After the wheel bearings have been removed or replaced or the front axle has been reassembled be sure to adjust wheel bearing preload. Refer to the Adjustment service procedure below. On the 1989–92 240SX there is just one wheel bearing, pressed into the hub and no adjusting cap. Refer to the exploded views of the Front Axle Hub Assembly. Review the complete service procedure.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the front wheels and the brake caliper assemblies. NOTE: Brake hoses do not need to be disconnected from the brake caliper assemblies. Make sure the brake hoses are secure and do not let caliper assemblies hang unsupported from the vehicle.
   
3. Work off center hub cap by using thin tool. If necessary tap around it with a soft hammer while removing.
4. Pry off cotter pin and take out adjusting cap and wheel bearing lock nut.
5. Remove wheel hub with disc brake rotor from spindle with bearings installed. Remove the outer bearing from the hub.
6. Remove inner bearing and grease seal from hub using long brass drift pin or equivalent.
7. If it is necessary to replace the bearing outer races, drive them out of the hub with a brass drift pin and mallet.
8. Install the outer bearing race with a tool (KV401021S0 special tool number) until it seats in the hub flush. NOTE: Place a large glob of grease into the palm of one hand and push the bearing through it with a sliding motion. The grease must be forced through the side of the bearing and in between each roller. Continue until the grease begins to ooze out the other side through the gaps between the rollers. The bearing must be completely packed with grease.
   
9. Pack each wheel bearing with high temperature wheel bearing grease. Pack hub and hub cap with the recommended wheel bearing grease up to shaded portions. Refer to the illustration.
10. Install the inner bearing and grease seal in the proper position in the hub.
11. Install the wheel hub with disc brake rotor to the spindle.
12. Install the outer wheel bearing, lock washer, wheel bearing lock nut, adjusting cap, cotter pin (always use a new cotter pin and O-ring for installation after adjustment), spread cotter pin then install the O-ring and dust cap.
13. Install the brake caliper assemblies and bleed brakes if necessary. Install the front wheels.

Hubs do quit working. Jack both front wheels off of the ground and lock the hubs but leave the transfer case in 2wd. If you spin one wheel the other should spin backwards. If not replace the hubs. If they do spin correctly, you may have a transfer case problem or a front chunk problem.