Battery wont stay charged on simplicity broadmoor

if the alternator is brand new then it is an external voltage regulator
have an auto electrician check the charge system for you

you fixed the symptom but not the cause
take it to an accredited auto electrician and have the charge circuit tested , including the voltage regulator

Have you put a meter on the back of the alternator to see if it is putting out voltage but not making it to the battery ?

the alternator is not charging
problems include incorrect alternator ( internal voltage regulated as against external voltage regulated )
blown rectifier plate ( charing with ac current instead of DC)
drive belt tension
best have it checked by an accredited auto electrician

Maybe it wasn't running long enough to charge up the battery?
Stop trying to jump it, when you are having problems with it dying, take the battery off and have it charged. And/or buy a $20 voltmeter to see what the battery shows. If it says less than 12 volts, it is discharged, and needs charging. A good battery that is not run down should have at least 12.5 volts. A new battery that is charged should have very close to 13 volts, maybe 12.8 volts.
When you have the truck running, check the alternator for charging. You put the voltmeter right on the battery and check it again. This time, with truck running, battery should show at least 13.5 volts. That shows the alternator is working. A good alternator will put out about 13 or 14 volts-the regulator will keep it from going any higher to prevent problems, like a melting battery or electrical parts burning out.
I would say get the charging system working right, then address the problem of dying at stop lights. That could be a carburetor problem, if the alternator is working.

It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

I can only guess here but clean your wires going into the bat terminals, also check for a light that may be stuck on when it is parkes such as trunk engine or glove compartment.. since you did all these things also check the alt/charge fuse

check voltage regulator

What place verified the alternator for you?
If its a place like Autozone,all they can do is a normal running check of it,They cannot put a load on it to see how much it can put out.It really sounds like the voltage regulator is not changing,maybe one of the diodes are bad in the alternator.

Generator with Integral Rear Mount Voltage Regulator, Internal Fan Type With the key in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the charge indicator lamp I circuit to the voltage regulator. This turns the voltage regulator on, allowing current to flow from the battery sense A circuit to the generator field coil. When the engine (6007) is started, the generator (GEN) (10346) begins to generate alternating (AC) current which is converted to direct (DC) current by the rectifier internal to the generator. This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the battery positive voltage (B+) terminal located on the rear of the generator. Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the stator and fed back to the voltage regulator S circuit, turning off the charge indicator/lamp. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage at the A circuit. This voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, and the voltage regulator controls the generator field current to maintain proper generator output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge. With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit (battery sense voltage). The A circuit voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the voltage regulator, which controls the generator field current to maintain proper output. The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in the winter than in the summer, allowing for better battery recharge in the winter and reducing the chance of overcharging the battery in the summer. A fuse link is included in the charging system wiring on all vehicles. The fuse link is used to prevent damage to the wiring harness and generator if the wiring harness should become grounded, or if a booster battery with the wrong polarity is connected to the charging system. Mitsubishi 215-Ampere Generator
The Mitsubishi 215-ampere generator is an internally regulated, brushless unit that is self-current limiting and temperature compensating. The regulator is integral with the generator and the fan is external.

VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical

• Before attempting to test a battery, it is important to give it a thorough examination to determine if it has been damaged.

• Batteries are tested to determine the state of charge and ability to crank an engine. The result of these tests is to show that the battery is either good, needs recharging, or must be replaced.

• Preliminary checks to the charging system should be made regardless of the fault condition. These checks include:
  • Check the fuses/fuse links to the generator to ensure that they are not burned or damaged. This condition, resulting in an open circuit or high resistance, can cause erratic or intermittent charging system concerns.
  • Check battery posts and cable terminals for clean and tight connections. Clean the posts and the cables to ensure good electrical contact.
  • Check for secure connections at the generator output, voltage regulator and engine ground. Also check the connection at the power distribution point.
  • Check the generator drive belt to ensure proper tension and no slip between the generator pulley and the drive belt. Refer to Section 03-05 in the Powertrain, Drivetrain Manual.
  • Check battery for full charge.

• Before performing charging system tests on the vehicle, note conditions such as: slow cranking, discharged battery, charge indicator lamp stays on with engine running, charge indicator lamp does not illuminate with ignition switch in RUN and engine not running, etc. This information will aid in isolating the part of the system causing the symptom.
• When a relatively new battery is discharged, test for current drain. The following are some of the most common current drain concerns:
  • Glove compartment lamp stays on with the door closed.
  • Engine compartment lamp stays on constantly.
  • License plate lamp or interior lamp stays on constantly.
  • Other electronic component concerns.