SOURCE: 1987 Chevy G20 van replace power steering pump
Does your van have the serpentine belt? If so maybe I can help, I replaced the Power steering pump on my 90 G20 a couple of weeks ago. The trick is that you need to pull the pump pulley which is pressed on to access the mounting bolts which attach the pump to the engine. Harbor Freight tools sells a great tool designed for this job for $20.00. Once you have the correct tools, remove the serpentine drive belt. You may also need to remove the fan shroud. the pump shaft looks like it has an allen socket in the center, but this is for use in the manufacturing process, and will not come out. Place the puller tool on the pulley following tthe instruction that come with the tool, and remove the pulley. loosen, but do not remove the nut on the high pressure hose connection. use a pair of **** pliers to cut and remove the crimp clamp on the low pressure hose. If your pump has the remote reservour loosen the clamp on the reservour hose also. Remove the three mounting bolts, place a large pan under the pump to catch drips, and remove the prevously loosened hoses. there will be fluid leaking all over and the pump should come free, There are two types of replacement pump sold. With and without reservour. This reservour is a metal cover that fits over the back of the pump, and should not be confused with the reomte revervour found on some newer models which is next to the battery. This reservour is held in place be two throught the pump bolts which are removed at the back of the pump. If your new pump has a reservour you will probably still need to remove these bolts and put them in the replacement pump as most are shiped without these bolts. If you replacement pump comes without a reservour pull the bolts, the reservour should pull off of the old pump and slide onto the new one. check the o rings and replace the through the pump bolts. Installation is the reverse of removal execpt that 1/2" hose clamps replace the crimp clamps on the low pressure hose, and the puller tool is set up differently to replace the pulley. Finally if you don't flush contaminants out of the system your repair will last maybe a week. www.cardone.com has a great article about power steering flushing, read it before you start Good luck.
SOURCE: Serpentine Belt chevy g20
hardest part is to remember how to rout the belt theres a place u can put a 1/2 inch or 3/8 ratchet on the tensior to make the belt slide offf
SOURCE: Electronic Control Module Installation 1994 G20 Chevy Van
I just had the same problem. If it is a regular van try under the driver seat in a plastic box. If it is a conversion van try in a pannel just behind driver seat on side of van wall behind a pannel that looks like a vent.
SOURCE: 95 G20 Chevy van: ABS light stays on, pulls right when braking
You actually have two separate problems. The brake pull to the right is indicating the left side brake is not working properly. You will want to remove the left front wheel, collapse the caliper piston and make sure the caliper is floating freely on its mounts.
With the piston collapsed you should be able to slide the caliper inboard and outboard of the rotor. If not, you will want to remove the attachment pins, clean and lubricate the pins. If they are grooved or worn you will have to replace them.
The second issue of the ABS light is indicating the system has detected an electrical sensing or control problem. Take the vehicle to your local Auto Zone or Advance Auto and ask them to scan the vehicle for trouble codes. They will scan it for you at no charge.
Chances are you will find a wheel speed sensor problem at one of the wheels.
Write the codes down and respond back, we can start diagnosing the problem,
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
SOURCE: I have a 93 Chevy G20 VAN G20 with a 4.3L engine
There are three relays all grouped together on the firewall on the passengers side. All three are related to your situated. We can eliminate one of them because you stated that the fuel pump is operating fine. Now that leaves the relay for the ECM(engine control module) this tells the injectors, cold start and run, when and how much fuel to supply and also controls ignition timing and spark advance. The third controls the AC compressor. Now I've got to remind you that I started working on fuel injection systems the day they started failing here in the US around 1972.These were such vehicles as Mercedes, Saab and Volvo. I've worked on every configuration, TBI, MPI, diesel etc.etc. I may on occasion cross one fact with another or mispronounce certain aspect of a system however, These three injectors are where you want to concentrate your efforts. With some finnesse you can swap the harnesses from one to another. If your car runs fine and your AC suddenly does not, then you know that that relay is faulty. Do this until you get your answer. Best of luck my friend, Dana
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